Whats cheapest camber adjuster?

[LarryStooge]

I lowered my car last night and it still seems to be positive camber all around (i have no idea how, but last time i got it aligned, 2 of the wheels couldnt even go into factory specs they were so positive). I'd like to put some negative (just enough to reach the most negative camber possible while still staying within stock specs) camber on my car, any ideas what I should need? I'm going to discount tire next week to have them align it, im going to tell them to put it on the farthest negative while still staying in stock specs. Thanks for anyones help and if needed, I drive a 97 base model with auto transmission, no lsd or anti-lock brakes.

[jam149]

That is extremely strange. Especially in the rear. The multilink rear gains a significant amount of negative camber in a small amount of compression.

My S14 went from -1.75 deg in the rear to -2.5 deg in the rear when dropping about 2".

Your car must have some serious problems to have positive camber in the rear - but it IS adjustable back there at least.

In the front, the geometry of the car itself determines camber. Unless the car's been hit or curbed pretty extremely, it should be within the factory specs.

One thing to note - if the 2 tires positive are on the same side of the car, I'd question the alignment machine. They can go out of level - and should be regularily checked. I brought my car in at 1 year, and they said I was out of camber in the front! I knew the car was perfect...and sure enough - I went back a week later and told them to recheck it. It was right where it should be. They had re-leveled the machine the day after I brought it in the first time and noticed it was off.

Now, to FINALLY answer your question, the cheapest way to adjust camber in the front is to get the front eccentric bolts (PDM has them : PDM eccentrics ) - scroll down about 1/2 way.

(OK, I guess the absolute cheapest way is to just drill out the strut mount holes - but that's not a serious option at all).

Just make sure you have them torqued to specs...otherwise they could shift while driving.

joe

[badman70_1]

i'm in the process of lowering my 91' S13. The best pricing I've got is from Tirerack. ($183 Sportlines, $25 for "Eibach Recommended Alignment Kit", $20.74 Shipping). I have no clue what brand this kit is. I looked at PDM's front bolts and they look very comparable to this kit. Because I'm getting springs at the same time, I'll probably go with this deal.

Now, what should i do about the back? PDM has bushings, but they have been the only place i've found that has any alignment correction in the rear($85). Any suggestions? And as far as the rear bushings go. How do you install this. I'm new to Nissans and this forum. Any help is appreciated.

[jam149]

The tirerack eccentrics should be the same thing as the PDM ones. They should do just fine. Note that if you have wider wheels on the car, or in any way only have a very small amount of space between the top-inside of the tire, and the front strut, then the eccentrics may not work! If you attempt to add too much camber, the tire will rub the strut body.

The only other alignment correction for the rear I've seen is to replace the rear camber arm with a heim joint. However, at around $300 - it's much more than the PDM bushings. Some people slot their rear arms to achieve this.....but I don't think that's a smart way to go (no way to guarantee that the arm will stay in place under severe load).

To install them, you need to press out the stock bushings and press the new ones in. Any 1/2 decent shop should be able to do this for a reasonable price.

The stock camber adjustment in the rear has a bolt run through a bushing, and the bolt has an eccentric washer on it. The PDM bushings change the bushing that the adjuster bolt goes through. The new bushing has an eccentric insert...so now you have the additional offset of the bushing to add/subtract camber with.

joe

[badman70_1]

this is just a completion to my story. I installed eibach sportlines w/ kyb gr2's. i used the eccentric bolts($25) that tirerack recomended when i purchased the springs/struts. i eyeballed it and took the car to the alignment shop. the alignment guy(a friend i trust) racked the car and adjusted the front. He then looked at the rear and determined that they were within factory specs.

this was with no rear correction...conclusion;

you may want to go ahead and drop your car w/the front eccentric bolts. go have it aligned and see if any correction is needed for the rear....then determine if you need anything for the rear. this saved me $85(PDM Bushings).......but then again, this is my 2cents

[raging panda]

Well, i lowered my car with apexi WS coilovers, way low, so I needed a lot of adjustment front and rear. The front just requires that bolt that was suggested by eibach, i got a compareable brand. For the rear, you either have to get the bushings from PDM, which i also have, or a rear control arm that is adjustable, which are about 220 cheapest i have seen.

[badman70_1]

to tell the truth...i'm really not satisfied w/the way mine looks..even with the sportlines. every post that i read said that the sportlines would drop the car hella low......we'll i guess that was just a matter of opinion.