What works?!

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
S14Swap240sx
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Hey, ive been lookin around the forums for a few hours now, and ive also been around b4, so im not totaly out in the blue. Neways, ive heard.. good.. and ive heard bad.. about the ka-t and this is all mostly becasue of fuel control, and of course ignition.

I want a simple set up, that can hold to about 350hp, im going to be running a t3/t4 turbo. with probley a cobra mafs and 72lb injectors.

How does, a JWT ECU retune, and a apexi safc2 sound? Its simple to use, and i gues some what reliable.

for ignition, im lost.. im not sure how to handle knock, and all the stuff, can someone point me in a direction.. ive searched.. and im still searching.

thanx for ur help guysjon

i found this http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_7.htm seems pretty serious, and with some time at the dyno, i can fix my knockin issues.

is there any other set up u guys would go with?btw i HAVE a evc5 right now.. i can either sell it.. its new.. or just hold onto it.. so what would u do


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C-Kwik
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If you do a JWT ECU, you really don't need a SAFC. If you are getting knock with a JWT set-up, at 350 HP with 72lb injectors, then you are probably boosting beyond the limit of the octane of fuel you are using. The next fix would then be to increase octane or decrease compression. A good choice of turbo should be able to support 350 HP with the JWT ECU set-up you describe.

S14Swap240sx
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wow.. thats some good news.. Also, the ka doesnt have a knock sensor does it? if it doesnt, is there way of gettin one?

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C-Kwik
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It does. But I wouldn't rely on it to reveal any detonation problems. There are aftermarket units out there that would do a better job of detecting knock and provide a good interface so you can monitor knock.

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WDRacing
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Like C-Kwik said...ur setup will work fine to support 350hp or close to. JWT programs the gniion retard per lb of boost for you. So you should be cool, if ur worried, use the MSD Knock Meter, it works very well.

WD

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klattr1
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WDRacing wrote:Like C-Kwik said...ur setup will work fine to support 350hp or close to. JWT programs the gniion retard per lb of boost for you. So you should be cool, if ur worried, use the MSD Knock Meter, it works very well.

WD
The Jim Wolf ecu doesnt know how much boost you are running though. A standalone would for sure but the JWT program is general.I would say if all you are looking for is 350 hp, no need for the 72 lb injectors. 50lb'ers will max out somewhere around lets say 15-17 psi on a t3/t04e which is around 350-370 at the wheels. They have a 4 bar fuel pressure program but it makes driveability a lil different. If you are planning on pushing more than that, yeah the 72 lb injector program will be fine and plus it runs on stock fuel pressure.One thing to keep in mind though; Dont assume that as soon as you throw in that Jim Wolf ecu you can boost to 15 psi without any problems. I blew one motor at 15 psi and learned the hard way of not dynoing first. I know I know. But dynoing is always key and variables like: fuel pressure, base timing are critical to have right in order to use even the simpler setup of the Jim Wolf ecu. Just learn from me and do it right and dyno first before you crank up the boost and make sure you check spark plugs for a sign of if you are running rich or lean for even the lowest boost level you can possibly run or how much your wastegate spring is rated at.

S14Swap240sx
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thats all great info guys, thanx for the heads up. I didnt kno the jwt ecu was so solid.. im damn impressed.. and no im not gonna go boost crazy from the start, of course.. dyno it and such and run low 5-7psi boost until i drop in a built 65k mile de into my car =) thats for the summer tho

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klattr1
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the JWT ecu can be rock solid if you have all the variables right from which they originally designed their program for. It doesnt have tuneability but you can use a Apexi SAFC with it or some people have lowered fuel pressure to lean it out some to make more power even though it changes the whole curve. I didnt want to mess with the complexity of standalone install(installing crank triggered system and wiring a million things) but after all the experience I've had with my car, I could prolly make a good stab at it with all the resources and good friends I have to help me. It really depends what you are trying to do with the car. If you are a daily driver, then the Jim Wolf ecu might be a good option but if you are wanting to solely drag race or be a dyno king, a standalone fuel management system would be a good idea because of its flexibility and ability for launch control and running high boost on high octane without expecting Mr. Wolf to do the job for ya.

S14Swap240sx
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well i want it more for street, and on the weekends drifting and autox. Thats why i was thinkin i would need the safc, when im on the road.. daily driving i can lean it out, and then when im gettin busy on the track i can run it more rich. What variables where used when jwt made the ecu. So far im lookin at the t3/t4 turbo with72lb injectors and cobra mafs. I have a walboro in there right now actualy.. is there any big thing im missing?

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klattr1
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what i mean is that Jim Wolf programmed their 72lb injector and cobra mafs program on a car that was running 43.5 psi of fuel pressure at idle with fpr hose disconnected and the base timing was at 20 degrees.These are all variables from which your car should be at but sometimes people dont set base timing right or the stock fuel pressure regulator is out of whack. Their programs tend to run rich(like in the 10:1-11:1 range) which is too rich for some people but its on the safe side. I would say if you are going to use the SAFC to complement the JWT ecu, do it at the dyno to know for sure how much you can lean it out and set that to the other program on the SAFC. I would recommend not leaning it out more than 12:1 a/f ratio though. Anymore leaner than that and you'll be in dangerous territory when you are running your car hard at autocrossing events.If you go the dyno, just watch fuel pressure to make sure the stock fpr is working properly and that you are getting the right volume.

S14Swap240sx
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cool, do those numbers come with the ecu, like does he tell u, or should i just hold onto the info u just gave me

Nathan
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Basically, they just follow the stock settings, for example, 43.5psi is the stock fuel pressure (3 bar program for JWT).

deezlins
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you might wanna check out the J&S Safegaurd if you are worried about knock and stuff

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C-Kwik
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klattr1 wrote:The Jim Wolf ecu doesnt know how much boost you are running though.


That is correct, and it really doesn't care. But JWT can determine a reasonable boost range for a given airflow and map the ECU to compensate accordingly.

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C-Kwik
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klattr1 wrote:One thing to keep in mind though; Dont assume that as soon as you throw in that Jim Wolf ecu you can boost to 15 psi without any problems. I blew one motor at 15 psi and learned the hard way of not dynoing first. I know I know. But dynoing is always key and variables like: fuel pressure, base timing are critical to have right in order to use even the simpler setup of the Jim Wolf ecu. Just learn from me and do it right and dyno first before you crank up the boost and make sure you check spark plugs for a sign of if you are running rich or lean for even the lowest boost level you can possibly run or how much your wastegate spring is rated at.


Even aside from putting it on a dyno, work up to a boost level. Drive around and listen to the motor. Particularly for detonation. On hot days, pay particularly close attention if you've not run it at that boost in that kind of heat before. It's fairly rare when you can't hear detonation before an engine blows. Unless you are blasting your stereo with not a care in the world. Until you know the boost level is safe, just be careful. Your motor will thank you for it.

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klattr1
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C-Kwik wrote:Even aside from putting it on a dyno, work up to a boost level. Drive around and listen to the motor. Particularly for detonation. On hot days, pay particularly close attention if you've not run it at that boost in that kind of heat before. It's fairly rare when you can't hear detonation before an engine blows. Unless you are blasting your stereo with not a care in the world. Until you know the boost level is safe, just be careful. Your motor will thank you for it.
i didnt hear detonation from my motor before i blew it but his was on a built motor. All it took was one more run at 15 psi and the marbles in a can sound was heard throughout the whole world. If you decide to turn up the boost without using a wideband and everything seems to run right and you dont blow your crap up, consider yourself lucky.

S14Swap240sx
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wideband.. hmm brings me up to another topic.. who has seen or used or even heard othe the HKS Knock Amp.. it displays knock and it can be used a wideband o2 sensor.. u gotta buy the sensor seprate tho.


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