What will be the impact of these changes on my drag RB?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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So I'm building a 240sx that will be used strictly for drag and am considering a few changes to hopefully drop some weight and free up a little HP. I searched for people who'd done this but didn't have much success. I'm planning on not running the N1 water pump or alternator and instead run an electric water pump and 16v lithium battery. Was curious to here peoples opinions on this? So what say you? Epic fail, to much of a headache, good idea or what else?

The idea is to drop the weight of the alternator and water pump as well as reduce the parasitic drag required to run them. Also I would avoid any potential issues at high revs. The battery weighs 4.5lbs and the 55 gpm waterpump weighs 6lbs. I'm planning on ditching the thermostat(more weight savings!) and instead trigger the pump with the haltech at whatever temp I want and will allow me to run the pump and fans even with the engine off to help with cooling in between passes. What are the possible pro's/cons and do you think it will make a difference vs stock?


Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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It will no doubt cool the car better in the high rpms.

Cjmartz2k
Posts: 1845
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 1:39 pm
Car: Hunting for a '89 GTR now
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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I think the weight savings will be negligible on the water pump, but as long as you have something like an "I'm over 95c and lighting up bright like a shift light!!" lights, you should be good. Lots of potential for those electrical water pumps to crap out, but it's not not like your engine assplodes as soon as the water pump dies.

Jimefam
Posts: 403
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:16 am

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Yeah the water pump weight will probably be a wash as the N1 probably weighs the same 6lbs. I started thinking about it because in talking with some engine builders in Australia they mentioned that at over 10k revs cavitation may be an issue. Then I saw the cost of a really good pump was very close to an N1+nismo thermostat and read this:

http://www.motivemag.com/pub/feature/te ... Loss.shtml

Also my DD has a clutch that disengages the alternator under load and I read an article where BMW did this because they found it took 4% of engine power to run the alternator regardless of the power made. So they more power the engine made the more hp was lost running the alternator. I figured every little bit helps!


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