What vacum hoses do we HAVE to keep?
What vacum hoses do we HAVE to keep?
Int he past I have elimanated all the hoses but 3 on my turbo cars. I have kept the FPR to intake, BOV to intake and and the hose for the wasgate and boostcontroller(manual). I have pluged up all the water hoses to the TB and capped off all the vacum ports of the TB. And on dual port manifolds I just ran the acutater strait to the intake so it would open quick. What do I have to keep on a CA. I dont like hoses so if I can get it down to 3 or 4 hoses like normal I will do so, And no I dont care about idle or any other cold start crap.
On the back of the intake manifold theres a nipple. Get a T and run a hose from the nipple to the T. Another hose from the T will go to the FPR and the hose from the T will go to the 2nd intake manifold ports.
This is how I had mine set up at first. Now im running a hose straight from the manifold to the FPR. The 2nd ports I left unplugged since they stay open without a signal.
On the front/side of the intake manifold theres another nippled. Thats for BOV and boost gauge.
Right under the TB theres another nipple. Cap that one off if you like. My wastegate signal is going straight to the turbo compressor.
I took off all the coolant lines that go to the TB and removed any other vaccumm and coolant hoses.
I did leave the idle air control hose going to the intake.
This is how I had mine set up at first. Now im running a hose straight from the manifold to the FPR. The 2nd ports I left unplugged since they stay open without a signal.
On the front/side of the intake manifold theres another nippled. Thats for BOV and boost gauge.
Right under the TB theres another nipple. Cap that one off if you like. My wastegate signal is going straight to the turbo compressor.
I took off all the coolant lines that go to the TB and removed any other vaccumm and coolant hoses.
I did leave the idle air control hose going to the intake.
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iliketocrash
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USDM_OneVia
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iliketocrash
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biosehnsucht
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a wastegate actuator (part of the wastegate) is set with an X psi spring, for example 7 psi. when there is 7psi of pressure on it, it will cause the actuator to move and open the wastegate.
if you plumb directely into the compressor side (or right after) it'll respond almost instantly to the pressure (albiet the hot-air pressure, not the pressure-dropped 'cold' air pressure at the intake manifold), otherwise you'd get a slight delay in response as the pressure change has to through 2-3 feet of tubing or more.. fast response is good for longevity.
to use a boost controller (not all are using one) you'd hook it between the actuator and whatever you're sourcing your boost signal at (i.e. compressor outlet or intake manifold as above, however you want) and it actually uses a solenoid to open/close the pressure signal to the actuator. so if for example if oyu have it set to 12 psi, it waits until itself senses 12psi on the sense side, then opens the actuator which lets that through to the outlet going to the actuator and the actuator sees something more than 7psi (because all that matters is it is at LEAST whatever pressure, not exactly that pressure) and it opens the wastegate, then when you drop below 12psi the controller would close the solenoid, stopping boost signal to the actuator which now sees nothing and closes the wastegate. If for some reason the controller didn't clos ethe solenoid, the wastegate would close on its own when you dropped below 7psi because it takes at least that much to open it. Now if this were the case you'd have a broken controller, but..
everyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but IIRC thats basicly how it works.
if you plumb directely into the compressor side (or right after) it'll respond almost instantly to the pressure (albiet the hot-air pressure, not the pressure-dropped 'cold' air pressure at the intake manifold), otherwise you'd get a slight delay in response as the pressure change has to through 2-3 feet of tubing or more.. fast response is good for longevity.
to use a boost controller (not all are using one) you'd hook it between the actuator and whatever you're sourcing your boost signal at (i.e. compressor outlet or intake manifold as above, however you want) and it actually uses a solenoid to open/close the pressure signal to the actuator. so if for example if oyu have it set to 12 psi, it waits until itself senses 12psi on the sense side, then opens the actuator which lets that through to the outlet going to the actuator and the actuator sees something more than 7psi (because all that matters is it is at LEAST whatever pressure, not exactly that pressure) and it opens the wastegate, then when you drop below 12psi the controller would close the solenoid, stopping boost signal to the actuator which now sees nothing and closes the wastegate. If for some reason the controller didn't clos ethe solenoid, the wastegate would close on its own when you dropped below 7psi because it takes at least that much to open it. Now if this were the case you'd have a broken controller, but..
everyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but IIRC thats basicly how it works.
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iliketocrash
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