what to replace?

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GuSpeed
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:35 pm

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For people out there who has done SR20DET swaps, what do you guys normally replace?

Do most people replace the entire engine gaskets? Or should it be fine to buy the motor and just drop it in with a new clutch and new oil pan? I'm a little confuse. I was hoping to just buy the engine and drop it in with a new clutch and oil pan.

But as I research, you gotta replace this and that and the thing turns out to be more than $5k. So I just wanted to know people's opinion on this and if it's necessary to replace these things.

Thanks!


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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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typically there's no need to replace the gasket set on an SR. Do a compression test though so you can get an idea if the headgasket is in good shape (all numbers should be within a 10 psi range of each other)

and while you have easy access to it, check the rear main seal and replace it if necessary. It's such a pain to get to once the motor's in the car, you might as well go ahead and do it now, especially if you plan on putting a new clutch on.

other than the usual little things (hoses and vacuum lines) there's not much else to replace for a swap. Good luck!

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FSUDrifter
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:50 pm
Car: trying to decide on one...

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you don't need a new oil pan, most people just bang them out. As long as it doesn't leak and it's not dented in where the sump is, it should work fine.

Water pump would prob be a good idea,

Inspect all the hoses and see if any are cracked or look real dried out. Especially the heater hoses on the back, those are impossible to get to later.

GuSpeed
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:35 pm

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Really....??? So I can just buy the motorset, inspect the hoses/vaccums lines, and if that looks good, I just gotta replace the front ans rear main seals, new clutch, water pump, and accessories belts I should be good?

You see I only have like 2500 to spend and I don't want to have to worry about something breaking down after its installed.

Do I need FMIC? Boost controller, turbo timer, BOV? Or are these just recommended? What can I do with my budget 2500 and be able to drive the car safe without problems?

Thanks.

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efrain240sx
Posts: 612
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:14 pm
Car: 1992 nissan 240sx HB

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I would change the knock sensor if I was you

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dogma
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 5:44 am

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WATER PUMP!!! No sooner than I got my setup running the water pump started leaking from the weep hole. about $80 shipped from Heavythrottle.com for nissan factory water pump. Easy install too!

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FSUDrifter
Posts: 1495
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:50 pm
Car: trying to decide on one...

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dogma wrote:WATER PUMP!!! No sooner than I got my setup running the water pump started leaking from the weep hole. about $80 shipped from Heavythrottle.com for nissan factory water pump. Easy install too!
I would look on ebay for a water pump... I got one for about $50

GuSpeed
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:35 pm

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so motorset, knock sensor, water pump, belts, and tune up accesories. Anything else? Or all this and drop the motor in and good to go?

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

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Any SR that I would do.. I'd replace water pump and oil pump first

Then, HG w/ ARP head studs

Then, replace all valve stem seals (good time to upgrade valve train)

Then, replace all gaskets including the rear main seal, turbo gaskets, etc etc

Then, clutch of course w/ resurfaced flywheel or a new one

But that's just me.

GuSpeed
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:35 pm

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thanks, would you shave the head and block if you were replacing the headgasket with an OEM?

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

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I would get them decked for the best sealing performance.

If you really don't want to... you can get away with scotch brite + some type of liquid gasket remover + elbow grease. Make sure you rub on the block and the head until its shiny. And then spray some copper coating on the HG and put them on.

Also, if you are re-using your stock head bolts, make sure they are not stretched too far. These are torque-to-yield type of bolts.

GuSpeed
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 4:35 pm

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I plan on using new ARP bolts.

If I get them decked, do I have to take out the pistons? Do I have to do anything to the head? Or just bring both the block and head to get shave?


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