What to look for?

Discussion forum for the venerable 510, and its non-US counterparts, the Datsun 1600 and Bluebird.
exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Hey guys, I've been toying with the idea of getting a 510 for about 2 years now. I don't know a whole lot about them, but I do know that they look awesome and can be transformed into some pretty badazz machines.

I currently drive a 2003 toyota matrix, but it's in the shop right now getting some serious work done to it. Which means that I won't have it back for probably about 6 weeks. The problem is that I am starting a new job next week and will need a car. The plan is to buy a 510 that can be used as a daily driver for the next few weeks, and then when I have my trix back the 510 will become my project car.

Now I've found a couple of promising 510's in my area, but before I go check them out I was hoping that you guys could give me some advice on what to look for.Thanks for any input you can give.Brandon


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Gensaiken
Posts: 68
Joined: Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:20 am
Car: 71 Datsun 510
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Check the condition of the body, Look high and low for serious rust holes. Surface rust isn't a big issue. Look for repaired body damage.

Drive it carefully and pay attention to everything to make sure you aren't going to have to dump a ton in to repairs. Avoid hack jobs in the engine bay.

Try and find one as clean as possible for the lowest price you can. 510's can be a rough ride in their stock form. Not much sound proofing and the engine tends to roar a lot. So keep that in mind. That is all I can really think of...

PS: get it inspected by a shop that you trust. If anything getting it in the air can tell you a lot.

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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I'm going to go look at a '72 4-door tomorrow. The lady claims no rust and only 63k original miles. The only bad thing is that it's an auto, but I guess that really won't matter since I will eventually swap in a different motor and will have to do the tranny anyway.

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Okay, I just got back from checking out the '72 4 door. The body was in real nice shape. Only one very small spot of rust where the hood gets hung up when you open it. And I did find a small leak in the trunk. Everything is stock. The interior is okay, looks nice, very clean, but there are some tears. Not a big deal to me.

The only thing that concerns me is the motor. I really don't know anything when it come to cars with carbs, but it was totaly gutless until the engine had warmed up. And even then it was still really slow. Especially from a dead stop. It was like I would step on the gas (to the floor), and it would just slowly creep forward. Once the car was up to about 30mph it felt much better, not fast by any means, but much more responsive.

Do those things sound normal for the stock motor? If not does it sound like something that could be fixed cheap and easy?

They're asking $1700 for it, and I offered them $1200 for it. They said they would think about it and let me know tonight if they would accept $1200.

partyboy6971
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:46 pm
Car: 1970 datsun 510, 1970 f-250 with 460, 79 bronco.

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exile27 wrote:Okay, I just got back from checking out the '72 4 door. The body was in real nice shape. Only one very small spot of rust where the hood gets hung up when you open it. And I did find a small leak in the trunk. Everything is stock. The interior is okay, looks nice, very clean, but there are some tears. Not a big deal to me.

The only thing that concerns me is the motor. I really don't know anything when it come to cars with carbs, but it was totaly gutless until the engine had warmed up. And even then it was still really slow. Especially from a dead stop. It was like I would step on the gas (to the floor), and it would just slowly creep forward. Once the car was up to about 30mph it felt much better, not fast by any means, but much more responsive.

Do those things sound normal for the stock motor? If not does it sound like something that could be fixed cheap and easy?

They're asking $1700 for it, and I offered them $1200 for it. They said they would think about it and let me know tonight if they would accept $1200.
im not sure if its just that motor or what. but when my timing is off on my tow-rig. it is hard to start and doesnt have much power off the line at all. so you could check the timing on it. also was it hard to start at all?

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Gensaiken
Posts: 68
Joined: Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:20 am
Car: 71 Datsun 510
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Automatic L16 (stock engine) is the slowest thing on the road. You could lose to a moped.

The problem with going from automatic to manual is that you need to installed a clutch cyl and create a clutch line. Not to mention you need to dig up a manual pedal assembly which can be a pain to find and can cost up to $80 from some one who knows what they are worth.

I would hapily pick up the car you are describing for $1200. Then again it is a 4dr which some people like and some people don't.

Just considering what kind of project you are looking for and how much you have to spend. I would advise not jumping in to body work first because it usually leaves you with no money left to finish the project.

I would say if you get the car just put around with it and learn to tune the engine a bit. Get familiar with the 510 before you just rip it all apart.

For the price of a SR20 you can have a pretty nicely built L20 (pickup truck motor) and those can be pretty fun. Not to mention you don't have to deal with a lot of expensive conversion parts or serious cutting / hacking.

I have to say I do enjoy having a Carbed 2liter. I wouldn't mind a VG30 but that will have to wait a long while. Got a lot left to do before I spend the cash on the big guns.

Anyways, get to know the local datsun people. They could be cool or possibly a bunch of jerks. Over all the datsun / 510 community is a lot of fun and crazy people.

Just take is slow and dont' rush in to anything.

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Well I couldn't say no. I just picked the car up for $1200. I'm very happy with my purchase, but I do need some help in trouble-shooting what's wrong with the motor.

When I test drove it, my major concern was the slugish start. I would mash the gas, and the car would almost hesitate and just slowly creep forward. Then once I got to about 30mph the car somewhat came to life.

But it got worse on my way home. The sluggish start turned into the car dying almost everytime I came to a stop. Once I would come to a stop the car would idle fairly normal with a few little sputters here and there. But once I took my foot off the break and gave it a little gas the car would do the hesitaion thing and then die. But the car would start right back up, and proceed to slowly creep until I had gained a little speed, and then it would act normal again.

I don't know crap about carbed vehicles, but my buddy who does told me he thinks it's something with the carb, but could remember what it's called.

As far as the plan for the car I'm not 100% sure what route I want to take it yet. But I can tell you that after building up my matrix, $80 for the clutch assembly sounds cheap as dirt. I'm very much into the "If you're going to do it... Do it right." type of modding. I will definately be swaping out the motor, but I'm not sure what I want to put in it yet (so many choices). First things first, I need to get this motor running decently so it can act as my daily driver for the next 6 weeks or so. Then I'd say the first thing I need is some new breaks, cause these stockers suck.

Another plus for me is that I live really close to Techno Toy Tunning, and I hear that they do really nice work.

Thanks again for all the input.Brandon

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Okay my budy says that he thinks it might be the accelerator pump. Is that a common problem? How much does it cost to get a carb rebuilt?

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Gensaiken
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You know, I don't know too much about carbs. I had mine completely redone but those were SUs and very expensive ($400 for a complete overhaul).

I think you could pick up a webber or possibly find a carb that no one wants any more.

I know a guy who is a BIG 510 person in the Sac Area. If you want I can send him your email address or something and he might have a carb lying around you could use or possibly tell you what to do.

PM me your email address if you are interested.

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Well if I could just figure out how to get the pm to work. I'm tired. I'm going to bed. I'll figure it out tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help though.

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evildky
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exile27 wrote:Okay my budy says that he thinks it might be the accelerator pump. Is that a common problem? How much does it cost to get a carb rebuilt?
if it's got the stock SU carbs there is no accelerator pump, first check the carb oil, if it's empty just fill vith ATF, it only holds a little bit! and if the oil is fine take the covers off the remote fuel bowls, and check for crap cloggig the outlet hole in the bottom, and make sure the float swings freely and moves the needle valve as it should, next pull the fuel line off the goes from the fuel bowl to the carb jet, make sure it's free of obstruction and flows freely, if it's still acting up try adjusting the jet, screw them up or in for less fuel and down or out for more, just half a turn at a time

exile27
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:04 pm

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Well I found a guy in the area to help me tune this bad boy up. After looking at the carb, it looks like it's in good shape. But the distributor is kinda messed up. The gap was way off, and it looked kinda burnt with some siezing going on inside. I should have all that fixed by tomorrow, so with any luck that will fix the problem.

I've got to say though, on the way to this guys shop the car accually ran pretty well, and didn't die on me once. What litle power the car does have seemed to be there even from a dead stop. These are some fun little cars to drive. Just can't wait till I can convert it from a make-shift daily driver into a full blown project car.


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