What to do with your motor?

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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J-Phantom
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 2:18 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx

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Whats going on guys. I just had a question about general maintenance on a ka24de. Lets say for instance you've just purchased an old hatch like myself, what should be some of my todo's to the engine to keep it running well, power, etc. I would just like to know what are some of the things everyone here has done. I dont really know much when it come to motors. So im taking the initiative to just dive right in lol.thanks again guys.


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Razi
Posts: 28373
Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:52 am
Car: Moo

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Change spark plugs, do an oil change, and change the transmission fluid.

That's what I did when I first got my car.

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J-Phantom
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 2:18 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx

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Razi wrote:Change spark plugs, do an oil change, and change the transmission fluid.

That's what I did when I first got my car.
Thanks. I Want to treat my car right lol. I just dont know much. What are some good spark plugs, oil and transmission fluids to use?
Modified by J-Phantom at 10:08 PM 10/18/2009

Shabbernigdo
Posts: 693
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:36 am

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change out all the fluids. get new plugs / plug wires / dizz cap / rotor/

look at the FSM and use what nissan recomends or an = item

justjoshs240
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:09 pm
Car: 1990 240sx

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Do oil change every 3000 miles helps prevent timeing to go,cuz its a interference motor so that well then need a complete rebulid,it will send pistions into heads

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Frankenfourty
Posts: 172
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:16 pm
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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^ Just to clarify, it does not send your pistons into your heads. If a timing chain/belt breaks it holds the valves open and the piston comes up and bends your valves, it doesn't hit the head. No offense, I just don't know if you just wrote that wrong or what. And timing chains rarely break, they just stretch. Timing belts are what you have to be carefull with.

If your going to do anything timing wise, just get a chain guide to get rid of the rattle. And I seafoamed my car, which I would recommend you do too. New fuel filter helped too. But other than what everyone else has suggested, check your vacuum lines, and replace as necessary. +1 for a maintenance minded individual.

seang
Posts: 2026
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:09 pm
Car: Ford Fiesta ST
Location: Michigan

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IDK about the DOHC KA's guides. I think they can have problems with the upper chain guide rattling or something like that.

I'm not aware of any life span for the timing chain on either SOHC or DOHC KA24's. It was made to last the life of the engine. The tensioner is very sensitive to contamination and this is likely what causes the excessive rattling on start up.

Early single cam KA's did have chain guide problems because they were backed with plastic. They wear through over time and the situation gets critical. The single cammers found in 96-97 HB pickup trucks have metal backed guides.

When my truck (SOHC 1997 HB 4x4) rattles on start up, I shut it down immediately, and re-start it. This takes care of the problem, and I have been doing this since I bought the truck 25,000 miles ago. I believe the starter to be original, and it is holding up to the repeated use quite nicely. I have been taking measures to clean the inside of my engine, and this has alleviated the issue to 1 re-start, or even zero re-starts. At the worst it required me to re-start it 3, or even 4 times before the tensioner kicked in. That was when I said f*** that, and started using Marvel Mystery Oil in my crankcase a few hundred miles before oil changes, changing the oil more frequently (2100 miles for now), and sometimes changing the filter after 1000 miles. I have manually cleaned the inside of my valve cover using a cleaning brush and gasoline. What came out looked like flat black paint. I rinsed it, and dried it in a 200 degree oven until the breather baffles were clear of water, and re-installed it. This has helped some. I would also like to manually clean the inside of the oil pan, but my truck is a 4x4 and it's a good deal of labor to do that. IDK how that damned engine got so filthy, but I think my dear old Dad may have neglected to change the oil enough during his 6 month tenure of ownership. My intensive treatments have certainly been helping, that's a fact.

About that chain stretch thing, IDK what to make of that unless someone has actually measured an old one against a new one. Like I said, the chain was intended to last the life of the engine and has no factory recommended service interval. Any excessive rattling is likely caused by a sticky tensioner. The plastic guides are what sucked the most.

I did see BigVinnie recommend in an earlier thread that it is still wise to replace the timing set, and lots of people do just that.


Modified by seang at 11:02 PM 10/20/2009

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Frankenfourty
Posts: 172
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2009 5:16 pm
Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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[QUOTE=seang]IDK about the DOHC KA's guides. I think they can have problems with the upper chain guide rattling or something like that.

I'm not aware of any life span for the timing chain on either SOHC or DOHC KA24's. It was made to last the life of the engine. The tensioner is very sensitive to contamination and this is likely what causes the excessive rattling on start up.

Early single cam KA's did have chain guide problems because they were backed with plastic. They wear through over time and the situation gets critical. The single cammers found in 96-97 HB pickup trucks have metal backed guides.

When my truck (SOHC 1997 HB 4x4) rattles on start up, I shut it down immediately, and re-start it. This takes care of the problem, and I have been doing this since I bought the truck 25,000 miles ago. I believe the starter to be original, and it is holding up to the repeated use quite nicely. I have been taking measures to clean the inside of my engine, and this has alleviated the issue to 1 re-start, or even zero re-starts. At the worst it required me to re-start it 3, or even 4 times before the tensioner kicked in. That was when I said f*** that, and started using Marvel Mystery Oil in my crankcase a few hundred miles before oil changes, changing the oil more frequently (2100 miles for now), and sometimes changing the filter after 1000 miles. I have manually cleaned the inside of my valve cover using a cleaning brush and gasoline. What came out looked like flat black paint. I rinsed it, and dried it in a 200 degree oven until the breather baffles were clear of water, and re-installed it. This has helped some. I would also like to manually clean the inside of the oil pan, but my truck is a 4x4 and it's a good deal of labor to do that. IDK how that damned engine got so filthy, but I think my dear old Dad may have neglected to change the oil enough during his 6 month tenure of ownership. My intensive treatments have certainly been helping, that's a fact.

About that chain stretch thing, IDK what to make of that unless someone has actually measured an old one against a new one. Like I said, the chain was intended to last the life of the engine and has no factory recommended service interval. Any excessive rattling is likely caused by a sticky tensioner. The plastic guides are what sucked the most.

I did see BigVinnie recommend in an earlier thread that it is still wise to replace the timing set, and lots of people do just that.

Your right, the chain is designed to last the lifetime of the engine. As far as what I said about chain stretching, I wasnt implying that it fails because of this. Its just a fact that they do stretch over time as it wears, but that stretch causes no issues. And I have measured chains in cars compared to new ones and they are a bit bigger than the new ones. Its just that sometimes people misunderstand the difference between chains and belts. So +1 on making that more clear.

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J-Phantom
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 2:18 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx

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Thank you sooo much everyone ^_^ really helped out a lot and i def will be checking out that seafoam.


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