What Should I Do First.....?

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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PROJECTRB240SX
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Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET

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SUSPENSION OR BRAKES?

SUSPENSION PLANS:1.) WHITELINE BUSHINGS (COMPLETE SET)2.) SUB-FRAME LOCKS3.) SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES SWAY BAR SET4.) KYB AGX (4)

BRAKES1.) Z32 FRONT CALIPERS2.) BREMBO CS/SL ROTOR (4)3.) BLUE STUFF PADS4.) R32 GTS-T 15/16 MC5.) CUSTOM SS BRAKE LINES (4)

I HAVE A RB20DET BUILT UP AND IT'S GOING IN SOON BUT I'M THE TYPE OF GUY THAT WANTS THIS STUFF DONE BEFORE I DROP THAT MOTOR IN. WHAT DO YOU GUYS RECOMMEND DOING FIRST. I HAVE ABOUT $1400 THIS MONTH TO WORK WITH.


AJ-SPEC
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I think you kinda need both. Your car will handle like crap with stock suspension, but you won't slow that badass down with stock brakes. if you're gonna do both before the motor anyways, probably go with brakes first. you can deal with ****ty handling if you don't push it in the twisties, but it would suck if you rear ended someone who cut you off at 130mph.

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PROJECTRB240SX
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I FORGOT TO SAY THAT I AM NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO AFFORD BOTH (RIGHT NOW) SO THATS WHY I AM ASKING.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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AJ's right.

Brakes first.

Meantime
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I say revamp whichever system is more worn out and in need of repair/updating first, then do the next one. i.e. if you're riding around on 4 blown struts but the brakes work fine, get the suspension taken care of first.

If they're both equally worn, do the brakes first.

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PROJECTRB240SX
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WELL I DO HAVE BLOWN STRUTS BUT I AM ALSO DROPPING IN OVER 150 EXTRA HORSES. THATS WHY I ASK. HONESTLY I PERSONALLY REBUILT THE ENTIRE BRAKE SYSTEM SO I KNOW ITS WORKING GREAT. BUT I'M GOING TO NEED CLAMPING POWER.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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Grrrr.

Sounds like you don't need our advice here...

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PROJECTRB240SX
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HEY HITMAN THIS IS A BIT OFF TOPIC BUT DO YOU KNOW OF ANY ROAD COURSES IN PHOENIX, WELL OPEN TO PUBLIC USE?

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Dori Dori
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Get good front pads and good fluid and you'll be fine in the brake department till you can afford the other stuff.

Do the suspension now. You'll enjoy your car 800x more.:)

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BadMojo
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Dori Dori wrote:Do the suspension now. You'll enjoy your car 800x more.:)


I agree, especially since you have blown shocks right now. I'd upgrade the damaged bits before replacing a perfectly fine (if only stock) brake system.

No new springs to go with all those other suspension goodies?

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Exar-Kun
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replace broken things first, then upgrade. its my favorite car saying "something broken? time to upgrade!"

:D

also, were you planning on adding springs to that setup, you have sway bars, bushings, and dampers but no springs listed. I would do those at the time you change the dampers, since you have to remove on to change the other anyway.-chet

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PROJECTRB240SX
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I ALREADY HAVE LOWERING SPRINGS ON THE CAR. THATS WHY I'M NOT GOING TO CHANGE THEM. THEY ARE WHITELINES.

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PROJECTRB240SX
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ALRIGHT I CONTACTED MY BRAKE GUY AND HE IS GOING TO HAVE MY BRAKE SETUP TILL OCTOBER SO I HAVE TIME THEN.

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Exar-Kun
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cool! :icesangel glad to know everything is working out for ya :)-chet

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PROJECTRB240SX
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THANKS

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AZhitman
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musicsurfman wrote:HEY HITMAN THIS IS A BIT OFF TOPIC BUT DO YOU KNOW OF ANY ROAD COURSES IN PHOENIX, WELL OPEN TO PUBLIC USE?


Yep - There's a new one out on the West Side. Can't remember the name right now, but I've posted a link about it here somewhere....

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SmithSR
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AJ-SPEC wrote:you won't slow that badass down with stock brakes.

it would suck if you rear ended someone who cut you off at 130mph.


When did the car's mass increase?? Mass, in motion, is what a braking system stops. The car will not be traveling at any speed much greater than it already was capable of(if at all), so it's a bit false to suggest that factory brakes cannot slow a car that still weighs the same, and still travels at or near the same speeds. Increased power doesn't make a car harder to stop. Where did this idea originate??

It would suck under any circumstances if he rear-ended someone. In the instance you speak of, the likelyhood of such a crash depends solely on his chosing to travel at such high speeds in or near traffic(foolish). Larger brakes are no guarantee of avoiding such a collision...where a driver's anticipation/reaction are critical. If he, you, or anybody else that isn't driving a cop car is doing 130 near traffic, then you're wishing for death, and bigger brakes aren't what you need.

BUT I'M GOING TO NEED CLAMPING POWER.

This myth that increased power=less brake force is nonsense.

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Exar-Kun
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just a side note to compliment the point smith made:

brakes can only slow you down as much as the tires adhesion limit allows :) SCC proved that when they stuck 13.7 f and 12.8 r rotors or somethign on a supra and it slowed down 3 feet quicker from 100....not much at all. the main benifit of larger brakes is breater resistance to heat(disipation of it, anywaY), IE track use or otherwise, where repeated heavy braking is used.....

just though I would add that.

maybe a brakes sticky is in order?-chet

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PROJECTRB240SX
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THIS IS A TRACK CAR. I'M PULLING IT OFF THE ROAD, THUS WHY I ASKED AZHITMAN WHAT I DID. I KNOW THAT HIGHER POWER DOESN'T EQUAL LESS BRAKE FORCE BUT I WOULD LIKE TO IMPROVE MY STOP TIMES/DISTANCES IF I'M GOING TO ROAD COURSE IT. AND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1 PISTON COMPARED TO 4 PISTON IS LEAPS AND BOUNDS IF THE PROPER AMOUNT OF BRAKE FLUID IS APPLIED TO THE CALIPERS. THIS IS WHAT I WANT NOT JUST LARGER ROTORS. ANYWAY WITH THIS CAR OFF THE ROAD I'M GOING TO BE DOING BOTH AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER THINGS.


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