What's your sense of Rogue v. RAV and maybe CRV?

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
Subpar_
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I know this is like me asking the butcher what I should have for dinner ("meat!", says butcher) but I'm the researching type and like to hear from people who know their stuff before setting off shopping. I'm looking for an everyday driver and could use a little extra room, but not too much, average. I'm going to get into it soon but want to get a sense of the lay of the land. At first glance they all seem more similar than not to me. How do you the differences in choices? What tipped you to Rogue? Thanks for the help.


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casperfun
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:popcorn: :toast: :popcorn:

itsa300zx
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Only reason I bought mine was price, got a good deal back then for a 2011 S model.

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KoiMaxx
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In my case, I went with my 2017 Rogue SL in a bit of a rush since my Gen1 CRV was written off. Also, some of the features on it weren't available to other makes at the time (e.g. 360 camera), and partly I also liked the styling of that generation of Rogue (completely subjective).

Since you say you like doing research, the project management part of me says maybe make a list of things you need and want in your vehicle. Lay it out in a chart, and define weights per criteria based on your personal preferences. Get specs online of the models you're comparing, then give them a score using the chart you made earlier. Definitely schedule a visit to dealership and test drive them if possible. By then you should have a much better idea of what you would want to get.

Happy hunting!

Altair 4
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I'm not a huge fan of the CVT in the Nissan. I mean, it's okay, but... And I guess the CRV has a CVT. Has Honda fixed the oil dilution issue and the warm-up thing?

I'd check out the RAV 4, if price is no object.

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Rogue One
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AZhitman
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I'm not (despite my position here) brand-loyal.

I'm very impressed with the new RAV, and love the CRV.

Break out your torches and pitchforks, because all else being equal, I'd choose EITHER of them over a Rogue. [sorry not sorry]

excel_novice
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in 2019 i decided i would try a Hybrid. that excluded the Escape and CX5 (although the CX5 was the best to test drive) . that left the RAV4 and the Rogue. Nissan had the lower price with more features compared to the Rav4. i give the 2019 Rogue a thumbs up. stuff i thought was a waste turned out to be stuff i really liked. for example...Factory spec 41psi tires, and now i dont know if i can own a car without a motion activated tail gate and 360 camera.
My Lease is coming up...either i buy my Rogue or i will look into the Hybrids (CRV, Escape, Rav4 and 2022 Hyundai Tuscon)...so many high price choices in the midst of a chip shortage. i like the 2022 Rogues looks, but bummer Nissan gave up on Hybrids in favor of a future thats all Plug-In.

Lone Wolff
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Might also want to consider Mazda CX-5. When we bought our Rogue new in Oct 2014, it was down to the Rogue and the Mazda. If it would have been my daily driver instead of the wife's, we would have bought the CX-5.

D1dad
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My daughter had a mazda cx7 and it was a boat anchor. Turbo went out after the warranty and got awful fuel mileage. Literally the worst car ever as it was constantly in the shop, wheel bearings and constant electronic issues. I can’t comment on a crv but the rogue IMO gives the best bang for the buck if the tranny holds together. For what we paid for a 2018 midnight edition no other maker was gonna touch. The engine is pretty much bulletproof and gets over 30mpg on family trips. My older neighbor bought a beautiful crv but sticker price blew the rogues away. I’m on a mission to change the cvt fluid every 10k and seek how long I can keep this thing going. I’m impressed that at 42k there’s no rattles or squeaks and the factory alignment is still perfect. The hankooks it came with were garbage and I’m not satisfied with how some of the body panels line up but I’m kind of a perfectionist. My wife doesn’t see these things but it drives me insane. Luckily it’s her car.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Sat Jun 12, 2021 3:03 am
I’m on a mission to change the cvt fluid every 10k and seek how long I can keep this thing going.
With 10K fluid changes, I'll be very surprised if that CVT doesn't outlive the rest of the vehicle. QR's are nearly unkillable, so that could be a loooooong time.

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casperfun
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I always had the mindset that the transmission oil should be changed like motor oil.

But I feel 15-20k intervals is adequate. Oil changes can be done 10k safely these days, so seriously the focus on the transmission is more important. :slap:

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VStar650CL
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casperfun wrote:
Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:04 am
But I feel 15-20k intervals is adequate.
It is. ATF doesn't get polluted with combustion byproducts like motor oil. That's why it can last much longer without a change. In a healthy trans, thermal and shear breakdown take their toll much more slowly than contamination in the crankcase.

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casperfun
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I say 10k if you live in a area like Hudson Valley, or towing stuff.

With a trans cooler, it probably be bulletproof on flat terrain if your lucky in the crapshoot with the cvt Jatco gods. :banana:

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VStar650CL
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casperfun wrote:
Sat Jun 12, 2021 10:32 am
I say 10k if you live in a area like Hudson Valley, or towing stuff.

With a trans cooler, it probably be bulletproof on flat terrain if your lucky in the crapshoot with the cvt Jatco gods. :banana:
Towing stuff for sure, the trailer's inertia puts unique uneven shear forces on the belt that literally chew up the long chain molecules that provide the fluid's film strength. Living on a mountain and routinely climbing steep hills is also rough on the fluid, from both shear and temperature.

D1dad
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I couldn’t imagine putting a hitch on a cvt. Im sure 20k would be fine considering I waited till 40k for the 1st change and the fluid was still crystal clear in a mason jar. I know that doesn’t mean squat as far as active additives go. Im only doing 10k because I’ve hoarded cases of eneos n3. I may settle in on 20k changes doing the differentials as well. Heck I dump Mobil 1 annual protection that’s good for 20k at 4K intervals. Reading the owners manual on my 21 Altima and seeing 10k oil change recommendations made my eye twitch.

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casperfun
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No need for the annual if your dumping at 4K.

Heck use conventional, you will get the same results in the end. :poke:

D1dad
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I picked up $10 a jug clearance oil at auto zone and have enough for 5yrs. Mostly idemitsu with some valvoline 0-20 high mileage and mobil1 AP sprinkled in. I service 3 in my own fleet plus my daughter, daughter in law and nephews cars. All the used oil gets used up heating a mechanics shop so it’s never wasted. Most of our cars are 70 30% with the 70% being short tripped so short intervals make me feel warm and fuzzy. I have a business professional job so servicing and performing my own repairs keeps me grounded. Plus I don’t trust people touching my cars unless it’s above my skill level.

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VStar650CL
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D1dad wrote:
Sun Jun 13, 2021 3:31 am
I couldn’t imagine putting a hitch on a cvt.
Some CVT's are made for it, the Pathies are total brutes with Schwarzenegger belts made to tolerate it. I do have a couple of regular customers who tow lightweight stuff with gen2 Rogues (one a pair of kayaks and the other a bunch of lawnmowing equipment), but both took our advice and added a cooler along with regular fluid changes. So-far-so-good for both of them.

D1dad
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I’m anxiously awaiting the 22 frontier. If it’s looks in person as nice as it does on the website then I’ll have one in the drive. That’s assuming it gets any sort of decent mpg. That’ll be my trailer tower and I can retire my 2000 f250 powerstroke. She had a good run but the Ohio rust is eating her day by day.

Subpar_
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Thanks everyone. Really appreciate it.

Was talking to a friend who said he feels different in his Rogue. He said he would feel different if he was in a RAV or CR-V. Wondering if you have the same sense. How does it feel different in your Rogue v. say RAV, especially if you got a new(ish) one?


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