what is YOUR dream system setup?
-Dan
What's your DREAM system?
i'd go with AVI Tristar components in the doors, 8" Dynaudio subs in kicks all powered by U-Dimension Tube amps, and two 15" Digital Design subs powered by say a couple Soundstream Turantulas....
the 15's would be in a fibreglassed wall enclosure, and all the amps would be mounted in the trunk with hydraulic amp racks which would raise up from the floor...
oh and i'd prolly run the alpine DVA-7996, and throw in a couple 7" lcd widescreens in the visors (dunno why, just cause cost isn't an issue i guess)...
all that would probably run me a good 15G's... not including install or wiring... wiring would be another 2G's worth of top of the line monster cable, and install i would do mostly myself...
ugh, can only dream... how bout you dan?
the 15's would be in a fibreglassed wall enclosure, and all the amps would be mounted in the trunk with hydraulic amp racks which would raise up from the floor...
oh and i'd prolly run the alpine DVA-7996, and throw in a couple 7" lcd widescreens in the visors (dunno why, just cause cost isn't an issue i guess)...
all that would probably run me a good 15G's... not including install or wiring... wiring would be another 2G's worth of top of the line monster cable, and install i would do mostly myself...
ugh, can only dream... how bout you dan?
240sx2nr95 wrote:my dream setup consists of the $350 Alpine CDA-7893/ some 6.5" components, and 1 12" Eclipse Alum. sub powered by a Memphis amp or something...simple....but still my dream....
-Dan
that's soooo doable! but is a nice dream
my system is good enough as is, might just wanna upgrade my 3-way components, my sub, and amps... deck and wiring is still dope though, and so is the setup...-
nothingwrong
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InstantRice
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hazardous240
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InstantRice
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Woodmister
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Lets see...Xtant A6001 Mono Amp, Elemental Designs 15K, a Sony HU, MBQuarts rears, and Boston Acoustics fronts, a custom box, 5.8" LCD screen on a gooseneck, PS2 in the glove compartement, Knukonceptz wiring, power inverter for the PS2 and an FM modulator for the audio portion...
...O wait, thats my system
...O wait, thats my system
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hazardous240
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InstantRice
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MainEvent212
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bruinbear714
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I currently have:
Speaker: CDT Eurosports 6.5" components in the frontSub: JL 10" dual voice coil housed in a sealed enclosure
Speaker Amp: Tube Driver Blue 2x75W TUBE amplifier to power the CDTs
Sub Amp: Custom 200W-300W amp that I am currently designing.
Headunit: Currently a JVC SH909 that I want to replace with an Eclipse CD8053 once it's available.
Then there's an active low-pass tuneable filter that I am also working on for my subwoofer once the amplifier's finished (in another month or two).
Speaker: CDT Eurosports 6.5" components in the frontSub: JL 10" dual voice coil housed in a sealed enclosure
Speaker Amp: Tube Driver Blue 2x75W TUBE amplifier to power the CDTs
Sub Amp: Custom 200W-300W amp that I am currently designing.
Headunit: Currently a JVC SH909 that I want to replace with an Eclipse CD8053 once it's available.
Then there's an active low-pass tuneable filter that I am also working on for my subwoofer once the amplifier's finished (in another month or two).
Druel on this...
CD Deck: Pioneer Premier DEX-P9
Processor: Pioneer Premier DEQ-P9 (matching processor for DEX-P9)
Front stage speakers: Dynaudio System 360 (bi-amped) with the tweeter and midrange drivers in kickpanels and the midbass driver in the door (door heavily sound deadened)
Front stage amp: Precision Power PCX-4125
Subs: 2 Image Dynamics IDMAX 12's (sealed enclosure)
Sub amp: Precision Power PCX-2400 (ran 2 channel stereo)
((Both of these amps (4125 and 2400) are on the exact same chassis, so they will match.))
Sound Dampening: Take the car apart and sound deaden the car thoroughly. I would use the full line of Dynamat (Dynamic Control) sound deadening materials.
Wires: Use Tsunami wires and interconnects. Use the complete 900 series for all.
Power: Use an Optima Yellow top battery, (only one needed in the entire car) and use the Tsunami PowerTop Battery Power Distribution System. Upgrade your alternator grounds, and your alternator. Add a Tsunami Generator-X 1 farad cap to each amplifier.
Gauges: Put a double gauge cluster on the A-Pillar and fill it with an amp temp gauge and a battery voltage gauge.
Dash Lighting: Convert your interior lighting to blue led 194 bulbs and custom paint the dash... (300 grit wetsand), then 2 coats of primer using emory cloth to smooth it down after each coat dries, 4 coats of paint... in a silver color (this will match the color of amps, headunit, monitor, and processor).
Rear Design: Sub enclosure and amp-rack could include silver acrylic mirror, possibly silver-black carbon fiber covered fiberglass molding and some neon flood lighting. You could even do halogen bulbs from the top of the hatch (flush mounted) to do spot lighting of the rack (gives somewhat of a halo effect).
((You could use the front of the rear seats as a mounting area for the amps and make the amps fold down when the seat folds down with actuators.))
Multimedia: Pioneer DVD player/navigation unit (AVIC-90DVD) in glove box and a Pioneer TV tuner (GEX-P6400TV) wherever you could find room. Install a screen mounted on an actuator where the rear-view mirror was that would lower the screen (Pioneer AVD-W6000) when power was supplied to the dvd player, and retract to the normal position when it was being used as a rear-view monitor. (use a Santeca rear view camera mounted in the top of the rear headliner).
Tuning: RTA the system with an Audio-Control spectrum analyzer (most high-end shops have them) and adjust the 31 band eq on-board the DEQ-P9 to have a flat frequency response.
This is what I'd build if I had a couple weeks free and all the equipment to do it.
Get a pimp alarm system and a Pit-Bull to stay in your car while you are gone.
CD Deck: Pioneer Premier DEX-P9
Processor: Pioneer Premier DEQ-P9 (matching processor for DEX-P9)
Front stage speakers: Dynaudio System 360 (bi-amped) with the tweeter and midrange drivers in kickpanels and the midbass driver in the door (door heavily sound deadened)
Front stage amp: Precision Power PCX-4125
Subs: 2 Image Dynamics IDMAX 12's (sealed enclosure)
Sub amp: Precision Power PCX-2400 (ran 2 channel stereo)
((Both of these amps (4125 and 2400) are on the exact same chassis, so they will match.))
Sound Dampening: Take the car apart and sound deaden the car thoroughly. I would use the full line of Dynamat (Dynamic Control) sound deadening materials.
Wires: Use Tsunami wires and interconnects. Use the complete 900 series for all.
Power: Use an Optima Yellow top battery, (only one needed in the entire car) and use the Tsunami PowerTop Battery Power Distribution System. Upgrade your alternator grounds, and your alternator. Add a Tsunami Generator-X 1 farad cap to each amplifier.
Gauges: Put a double gauge cluster on the A-Pillar and fill it with an amp temp gauge and a battery voltage gauge.
Dash Lighting: Convert your interior lighting to blue led 194 bulbs and custom paint the dash... (300 grit wetsand), then 2 coats of primer using emory cloth to smooth it down after each coat dries, 4 coats of paint... in a silver color (this will match the color of amps, headunit, monitor, and processor).
Rear Design: Sub enclosure and amp-rack could include silver acrylic mirror, possibly silver-black carbon fiber covered fiberglass molding and some neon flood lighting. You could even do halogen bulbs from the top of the hatch (flush mounted) to do spot lighting of the rack (gives somewhat of a halo effect).
((You could use the front of the rear seats as a mounting area for the amps and make the amps fold down when the seat folds down with actuators.))
Multimedia: Pioneer DVD player/navigation unit (AVIC-90DVD) in glove box and a Pioneer TV tuner (GEX-P6400TV) wherever you could find room. Install a screen mounted on an actuator where the rear-view mirror was that would lower the screen (Pioneer AVD-W6000) when power was supplied to the dvd player, and retract to the normal position when it was being used as a rear-view monitor. (use a Santeca rear view camera mounted in the top of the rear headliner).
Tuning: RTA the system with an Audio-Control spectrum analyzer (most high-end shops have them) and adjust the 31 band eq on-board the DEQ-P9 to have a flat frequency response.
This is what I'd build if I had a couple weeks free and all the equipment to do it.
Get a pimp alarm system and a Pit-Bull to stay in your car while you are gone.
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diamondj30
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im getting it together now,just got alpine hard disk player,and pxa-700 proccessor,and 7998.havnt decided what subs for the front doors.they will be 8s,or tens.but ive changed my mine on the dd's and will run brahma 15s,they have some sound quality.morel 6" stay.the quart tweets stay too.5 custom made zapco c2k's.2 9.0 and 3 6.0.pretty simple,but capable 7,000 watts nothing bridged rms. .1080 just to the tweets.custom made alternator,235 amp.if i had some energy id start the install right now.amps color of car with mahogony inserts.almost went for the p-9 combo.nice.simsled,nice.and of coarse this is reality.