what's wrong with my car?

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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since last time I was driving my car with a screw up DENSO Iridium spark plug, now my car can't stay on( it keep dying). fuel get in to the oil pan, melt down the silicon and my oil pan is leaking oil. my spark plug screw up, bad injector o-rings, nothing works. yesterday, I redo the oil pan reseal it clean it. change oil filters refill some new motor oil , change spark plug ( NGK 1 step colder copper plug), new spark plugs wire. compression test ,all four is good. change the o-ring from the injector ( all 4 brand new o-ring). change some parts for the T3 used turbo ( off from 300zx turbo) and then I tried to start my car again, it didn't want to start , and then I crank couple more times, it would start and it can't keep in idle and die. but if I keep it at 2000rpm, it will stay on. I shut it off and check it again, cylinder #4 leaking fuel from the exhaust manifold , the spark plug #4 all wet ( I believe it was too wet ) . what's the problem, what make it not working? anyone can give me some advise?

I was thinking my distribator cap and rotor went bad? i never change it.? what do u think

fuel pressure at 50 psi when start and keep dropping. I upplug the injector and keep the fuel pump and look in to the spark plug hole and see if there any leaking fuel from the injector. they are fine.

I changed some part for the T3 Turbo,there aren't that much shaft play anymore after I changed it but it is harder to turn, can anyone tell me what I did wrong? I align it ( OEM spec), while I put everything back , there is a lock clip next to the turbine ( i blieve it's to lock in place the turbine from keeping off the place). that clip I think it expended , so that make the turbine harder to move, I hope when things break in..it would move freely. I was also thinking is it because the turbine wasn't turning freely so make my car die? but hwo can I explain why the fuel is leaking still

even when I had the screw up DENSO spark plug, it last me two days ( my car was drivable) , but now I change out hese NGK spark plug..I think it's worse. ANY comment, Advise , suggestion would be good


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fiznat
Posts: 5651
Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:15 am
Car: Grown up :(
Contact:

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hmmmm okay there are a few things I think you can check now that you know your compression was good. (by the way- what numbers did you get- just for ****s and giggles..)

It would help to know your complete setup. Before I didnt even realise you had a turbo... heh. What are you using to control fuel and timing?

1. I beleive you can check the voltage of the spark that you're getting in the plugs. There is a method to do this and specs to compare in the manual, sorry I dont remember offhand. I think its possible that you could have some sort of voltage drop or something that is rendering your spark ineffective.

2. Check your fuel pressure regulator, it's possible that you could be simply be spraying too much fuel to be burnt.

3. Also on that note, you can try resetting your ECU, in case there is some sort of software problem that is giving you too much fuel.

4. When you do run, is it really rich? What color is your exhaust-- is your bumper getting blackened up? Maybe test the AFR if you have a means of doing that.

5. You could have a cracked injector also, it might not just be o-rings... see if you can borrow some friend's 240's injectors and try those.

I donno, there's a whole mess of things you could check, but start with these.

nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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T3 (off 300zx)E-manageFMU( will be taken off)370cc 35mm wastegateBov I think it was 180 read from my gauge ( all 4 180)

nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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what's it mean by crack injector? I have one the tip have been crack but it isn't no in that #4 cylinder instead it is in cylinder one. I am now thinking it is the distrubtor cap and rotor , I look inside , the 4 points that touch the rotor is white..I believe it done'st conduct as good as before. my FMU turn all the way to OPEN so no restruition, I know i know..take it off...I will onec my car works fine... I believe FMU isn't a problem wheN I just start the car because it done'st do anything unitll it see boost.

nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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by the way I have to thanx fiznat and C-kiwk so much for the help!

PMan_S13
Posts: 575
Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 6:48 am
Car: Building car -> breaking car -> fixing car -> start over

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Sounds like it might be a timing issue.

I would change out the cap and rotor.. or at least put some dylectric grease on the connection points. My suggestion is to invest in a good timing gun...

If you have only a single plug that is wet with fuel and the rest are dry I would investigate.

An easy way to see if an injector is leaking is to unbolt the fuel rail but leave the supply and return lines plugged in. Then you just turn the car on (don't start it, just turn it on) that way the fuel pump will pressurize the system. Any leaks, on the top or bottom seals, will be visable within a few seconds.

nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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Finally I got my car start it again. what happen was I mess up spark plug wire . now it runs again and reach 7 psi, but at idle, my downpipe run SO Rich and back fire all the time when it's at idle.... I heard most of the guy have my setup they dont' mess with the fuel map to the e-manage and they said it is fine? is it still something wrong with my car ? maybe injector leak still? would that cause to back fire becasue of the leaking injector? by the way, when it is at 2000-4000rpm low Rpm, it felt like chocking and but when it hits boost , it Ran GOOD no back fire at all? what does that tell me? aM I running WAY too rich? and the spark plug got all wet? so it got slow respond? is there anyone have the same problem? if so? what did you do to fix it?

I'm runningE-manage370ccstock MAFT3 BOV


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