What's better, Clay Bar, Buff or both?

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
steelcity
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Car: 2007 Infiniti M35x
Location: Chicago, IL

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Weather is getting nice and my car can really use a nice detail job. You can really see the swirls in the paint.

Personally, I want to find a place that can buff everything out of the paint with some compound. I was given several opinions though. Some people told me to not do that because it strips a thin coat of paint. They recommended to detail the car with the clay bar. Then I have other people telling me to do the clay bar as a first step and get the car buffed and waxed after.

This isn't something I would do all the time. My car is 8 years old and it deals with some rough winter conditions. It deserves to be treated. So what do you guys think? Clay bar? Buff? or both?


bicsintegra
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the clay bat first then see if it does what you wanted done, I just used the meguiars clay bar kit on my M to get some overspray off of my car. it worked like a charm, I can still see swirls in the paint but I am going to wait until I put the sport bumper on to worry about the paint. I would probably use the claybar depending on how deep the swirls are in your paint, but definitely do it first.

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Ilya
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Clay bar and then anything else.

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pedsemdoc
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If you YouTube these topics: car detailing/auto paint correction/remove swirl marks/how to use a dual action polisher, you can really educate yourself.

1. The dude on AMMO NYC does a pretty good job of explaining how to clean/fix your paint and he works on some high end vehicles. (he does a really nice job about how to clean leather interiors - using a steam cleaner as one option!!?!!, which Larz will definitely endorse)

2. The chemical guys have several videos as well that are decent.

3. Junkman2000 knows what he's talking about as well, but he talks ALOT and he goes on and on...but he really gives you the basics at a simplistic level

Superficial swirl marks/scratches are usually just in the clear coat...shouldn't have to get to paint layer to remove them.

Get a decent dual action polisher and a couple of decent pads and with some products for cutting and polishing, you can help your paint a good bit with pretty much most of the superficial stuff.
I bought a Harbor Freight one (Chicago Electric 6 inch/5.7 amp) had to modify the backing pad (you can YouTube that as well) and it works decent for about $70.

A clay bar gets a lot of contaminants and stuff you can't see with the naked eye off the surface of the car.

Deeper scratches are harder - takes a lot more work. May have to wet sand.

A couple of guys have done some repainting themselves and results have been pretty good.
Dean (DeanM45) has repainted his front end and it looks pretty d@mn good to me!!!
I would like to do that to my front end because of all the rock chips/rash I've got...just haven't been brave enough or had the time. Plus, Diamond Graphite is a weird color, don't get me wrong I like it but it looks like different colors in different lighting situations. :confused:

steelcity
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Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2014 10:49 pm
Car: 2007 Infiniti M35x
Location: Chicago, IL

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Youre right. Clay bar first and take it from there. @pedsemdoc, i will check those videos out, thanks. Curious on the leather and steam cleaner, how does that work?

Larz
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Lots of great info. The biggest misconception most people have is that clay bar removes clear coat - it does not. The biggest mistake people make is using a clay bar on a car without thoroughly washing and drying the paint. The purpose of the clay bar is to remove unseen contaminants that remain on the surface after a good cleaning and drying. After the clay bar, the finish will feel like glass. You also MUST use a lubricant with the clay bar. I use Speed Shine by Griot's garage, but any detailer spray (mequiar's, etc) will be fine. Do NOT use plain water - water has particles that will not allow the clay bar to do it's job correctly. **** If you drop the clay bar at any time (even in your garage) while using it ... THROW IT AWAY ... it is now has dirt on it and it will scratch the finish.
Also, a clay bar will do NOTHING for scratches - it simply makes a glass-like surface to accept polish (the polish removes the scratches).
I do not clay my car each time I wash it - just the times I polish and wax it - 3X per year in this order:
1) Wash with a HUGH quality car shampoo, dry with a HIGH quality microfiber towel or a genuine chamois.
2) Clay bar one area at a time with detailer spray as a lubricant until the bar slides effortlessly with no hesitation. Do not use heavy pressure - just slide it back and forth until it glides freely.
3) Wipe the car with Detailer spray again to remove residue from the clay bar
4) Use a high quality - low abrasive polish. I use Griot's garage polish #3 and my dual action orbital.
5) Wipe the car down with Griot's Pre-Wax cleanser to remove any residue left after removing the polish
6) Apply two coats of Griot's Best Of Show wax and my dual action orbital. I let one coat dry completely but i do NOT buff it off - I apply a second coat right on top of the dried first coat, then buff it after it fully dries. It leaves a VERY deep coating of pure carnuba wax that lasts about 4-6 months.
This is an all-day affair but the car will look better than any new car in the showroom.

I also recommend the videos from Chemical Guys, Ammo, or Griot's videos. Peds knows what he is talking about!

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pedsemdoc
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Location: Southlake, Texas

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steelcity wrote:Curious on the leather and steam cleaner, how does that work?
If you look at the AMMO NYC video on cleaning a leather interior, he shows how a steam cleaner "opens up" the pores of the leather and allows you to get all that dirt out.

He demonstrates on the backseat of a minivan that looks trashed and after he steam cleans it and then conditions the leather, it looks brand new!!! you've got to see it.
I thought at first that steam would destroy your leather, but it makes a huge difference compared to just using a leather safe detergent and a brush (that helps a lot too, but not nearly as dramatic as the steam cleaner.)

Craig

steelcity
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Cool video man.

Larz
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pedsemdoc wrote:
steelcity wrote:Curious on the leather and steam cleaner, how does that work?
If you look at the AMMO NYC video on cleaning a leather interior, he shows how a steam cleaner "opens up" the pores of the leather and allows you to get all that dirt out.

He demonstrates on the backseat of a minivan that looks trashed and after he steam cleans it and then conditions the leather, it looks brand new!!! you've got to see it.
I thought at first that steam would destroy your leather, but it makes a huge difference compared to just using a leather safe detergent and a brush (that helps a lot too, but not nearly as dramatic as the steam cleaner.)

Craig
Yes, most of us would throw a fit at steaming leather seats. But remember, that's how leather is tanned - high heat steam (and a bunch of chemicals that kills everything but cockroaches, lol).


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