What's a good starter Micrometer set for a KA24DE rebuild?

[Space Boy Matt]

Hi,

I'm about to start a rebuild of my KA24DE and I am starting to purchase the specialized tools I will need.

My book tells me that I will need a Micrometer Set.

My question is, what size range set should I get for my rebuild?

For example, some sets come with 1 - 3 or more Micrometers in the box and range in size.

And also, do you know where I can find a fairly priced set for my project?

Thanks in advance for the help.

SBM

[DAEDALUS]

Depends on what exactly you'll be rebuilding and why. Heads only or heads and block/crank/rods/pistons? A micrometer set will measure outside dimensions...you'll need a transfer gauge to measure inner diameters. The sets with multiple micrometers are to save time and benefit the serious machinist more than the occassional DIY person. Plus they're sometimes just a bit more accurate. For many things +/- .0005" or .001" accuracy is enough.Plastiguage is extremely useful if you're careful not to clog the oil ports with it. You'll also need a ground straight edge and feeler guages.

[Space Boy Matt]

Actually I'm looking to rebuild the whole engine and I believe the micrometers will allow me to "see" which parts are out of whack, so to speak.

I have yet to pull apart the engine and see what parts acually need rebuilding so I of course can't say which parts will be machined or replaced.

Here's the basic info on my engine:

156k milesBlown head gasket (Steam comes out the tailpipe like crazy!)Oil Leaks from Oil PanLow Copression Test results

And since the optimal thing to due is just to replace the head gasket, oil pan gasket and the piston oil/comp rings I might as well rebuild the whole sucker while I'm at it since it is above 150k miles and will be needing it anyway.

These are my thoughts about my project.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks.

Depends on what exactly you'll be rebuilding and why. Heads only or heads and block/crank/rods/pistons? A micrometer set will measure outside dimensions...you'll need a transfer gauge to measure inner diameters. The sets with multiple micrometers are to save time and benefit the serious machinist more than the occassional DIY person. Plus they're sometimes just a bit more accurate. For many things +/- .0005" or .001" accuracy is enough.Plastiguage is extremely useful if you're careful not to clog the oil ports with it. You'll also need a ground straight edge and feeler guages.

[DAEDALUS]

WOW, very ambitious. A good set of mics will only be the beginning. Dial gauge, V-blocks, caliper, telescoping bore gauge set, bore honer, ring compressor, etc etc. Rings aren't always the cause of low compression, but new ones won't hurt. Just sucks having to open up the block. An oil pressure test will indicate if your bearing clearances are fine or loose. A good machinist can just wiggle the valves with his fingers and know whether you need new guides. The rest of us need to measure. As far as sources, I know that Harbor Freight has rock-bottom prices, but the quality may not be the best. No machinist would buy tools from them, but for occassional use, some of it will do IMO. Good luck.

[NISTECH]

if you buy quality precision equipment for this job you may find yourself spending more then just having a good machine shop go through it for you. you cant include the cost of the parts you will need to replace in that either since you will be buying them either way. try getting a quote from a shop and throw some senarios at them like if you need to line bore it or have the valve seats redone. that way you'll have a good comparision on weather you should do the machining work or not. if you go the shop way i recommend hot tank and pressure check the block and head first. especially since you have coolant in the chambers.

[Space Boy Matt]

Well it's really not as ambitious as it sounds.

My main reason for wanting to buy specialized measuring tools is that they would allow me to "see" which parts do need machining and or replacement.

I'm not going to buy "top of the line" brand tools, just the good enogh stuff for the occational use. And I'll definitely check out Harbor Freight in Salinas, Ca.

Any part needing machining is going to the machine shop at which point I'd be giving them the specifications of the work needed to be done.

I just want to scout around and learn about my engine. And besides, if I have shop do it all I would learn absolutely nothing.

Tools I've already decided I need are: (and I'm sure the list will get longer):

Good Metric SetTorque WrenchMicrometersExtendable Micrometers (for measuring the inside of the cylinders)Vernier Scale Ring CompressorBearing Clearance Measurers

I already have these:

Universal Engine StandEngine Hoist

Thanks.

[NISTECH]

thats cool if ya wanna learn. I just made the point cause i figured you might be thinking its cheaper if you did all the inspection. good luck to ya and make sure all the measurements you take, take them twice to be sure you have accurate measurements. take your time with it too dont rush it, one mistake and it could be detrimental on start up. have fun

[Space Boy Matt]

I'll probably take the measurements thrice or more since I don't want the engine to blow up on me at start up! (lol)

thats cool if ya wanna learn. I just made the point cause i figured you might be thinking its cheaper if you did all the inspection. good luck to ya and make sure all the measurements you take, take them twice to be sure you have accurate measurements. take your time with it too dont rush it, one mistake and it could be detrimental on start up. have fun

[DAEDALUS]

If you're interested in the work you'll have a good time. I strongly recommend getting an engine rebuilding book. A good one will cover just about everything you would ever need to know, including the tools required and the methods and procedures used. Go down to a local community college that offers engine repair courses, and take a look at the texts those classes use. They might cost $70 or so, but if you're going to be spending the amount of time you're talking about, it'll be well worth it. In fact, consider taking an evening class. I took one last semester at El Camino CC down here, and for $11/credit I learned a hell of a lot AND I got to use their shop to work on my car for 3 hours a week. They have all the tools Nistech and I mentioned plust a lot more...small stuff and big stuff few can afford, like boring machines, valve polishers & cutters, seat grinders, reamers, etc, plus all the cleaning and inspection equipment. Very high value. You could remove the engine and take it in on the first day, and have it completely rebuilt in 14 weeks or less.

[Space Boy Matt]

Reguarding books I already have:

1) The factory manual which has all the measurements for each part and instructions on rebuilding.

2) And for general info, I still have my large textbook from the auto classes I took at DeAnza Jr. College.

They do have a lot of equipment at DeAnza but the heavy machines can only be used by the students in the auto program or in special classes. I'm not in those classes at this time but may take a Fall class later.

If you're interested in the work you'll have a good time. I strongly recommend getting an engine rebuilding book. A good one will cover just about everything you would ever need to know, including the tools required and the methods and procedures used. Go down to a local community college that offers engine repair courses, and take a look at the texts those classes use. They might cost $70 or so, but if you're going to be spending the amount of time you're talking about, it'll be well worth it. In fact, consider taking an evening class. I took one last semester at El Camino CC down here, and for $11/credit I learned a hell of a lot AND I got to use their shop to work on my car for 3 hours a week. They have all the tools Nistech and I mentioned plust a lot more...small stuff and big stuff few can afford, like boring machines, valve polishers & cutters, seat grinders, reamers, etc, plus all the cleaning and inspection equipment. Very high value. You could remove the engine and take it in on the first day, and have it completely rebuilt in 14 weeks or less.