For an NA the Southbend clutch is popular from aftermarket, and OEM is a good choice for daily as well. You really don't need anything special for NA's as there isn't enough power to be had to make for a need for it, even the TT OEM is plenty good enough unless racing/tracking and even then a heavier pressure plate does the trick in most cases up to 600HP.Pablo808 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:51 pmHey, so I have a 1995 Nissan 300zx N/A with only 72k miles. Nearly everything is stock on it. Evens still has the factory air cleaner. Only thing that isn’t stock on the car are spark plugs, oil filter, HIDS and jdm red/clear tail lights.
It’s a daily driver for now until I make up my mind how exactly I want to build the car.
The previous owner had put a stage 3 clutch on it (Don’t know what brand) it grabs pretty okay but, I can hear the throw out bearing tapping at idle when the clutch is disengaged. Also, at cold starts you can hear the throw out bearing making a noise when you throw it into gear. (Doesn’t do that when you warm up the car.
I was looking at a Competition stage 2 clutch for a reasonable price. Was also thinking about putting a stock oem clutch on it since it’s a daily but I’m pretty sure I’m going to do a build on it in the near future.
So what’s everyone’s opinions for a good clutch? Also what do you guys run?
Thanks, I have a Stage 3 currently on the car. Does fine but the throw out bearing is going.DCaff300ZX wrote: ↑Thu Jun 14, 2018 6:13 amFor an NA the Southbend clutch is popular from aftermarket, and OEM is a good choice for daily as well. You really don't need anything special for NA's as there isn't enough power to be had to make for a need for it, even the TT OEM is plenty good enough unless racing/tracking and even then a heavier pressure plate does the trick in most cases up to 600HP.Pablo808 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:51 pmHey, so I have a 1995 Nissan 300zx N/A with only 72k miles. Nearly everything is stock on it. Evens still has the factory air cleaner. Only thing that isn’t stock on the car are spark plugs, oil filter, HIDS and jdm red/clear tail lights.
It’s a daily driver for now until I make up my mind how exactly I want to build the car.
The previous owner had put a stage 3 clutch on it (Don’t know what brand) it grabs pretty okay but, I can hear the throw out bearing tapping at idle when the clutch is disengaged. Also, at cold starts you can hear the throw out bearing making a noise when you throw it into gear. (Doesn’t do that when you warm up the car.
I was looking at a Competition stage 2 clutch for a reasonable price. Was also thinking about putting a stock oem clutch on it since it’s a daily but I’m pretty sure I’m going to do a build on it in the near future.
So what’s everyone’s opinions for a good clutch? Also what do you guys run?
What's your opinion on Competition clutches? Just bought their staged 2 clutch last night.NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 14, 2018 6:24 amSouthbend, Valeo, Daikin, OEM, Exedy, Specialty Z, RPS. Take your pick, a said, an NA will never overpower any clutch made for the car.
The clutch in my car should be pucked since it's a Stage 3. The previous owner before my brother owning this car had this Z on the track once in the while, thinking that's why he went with a staged clutch. The comp clutch I was looking at wasn't the gravity series. I didn't go with OEM since I know I'm going to build this car sooner or later. Nor did I went with XTD or all the lower priced brands below $300 since I'd rather go with quality other than cheapness.NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 14, 2018 1:56 pmI'v never had any exposure to competition clutches, basically with clutches they are either made by Valeo, Daikin, or Exedy, or a chinese knockoff, anything made by any of the non-knockoff brands is going to be good, anything made from cheap parts will not. Valeo always stamps their parts in the metal with their name, I believe Daikin does as well. Please do a search here on Nico if you'd like to know more, I had covered this in detail some time ago. As previously stated, nothing an NA VG30DE with produce will be too much for the clutch and if you go TT it is highly recommended to go with a TT clutch. In general I think there is absolutely no need for a pucked clutch unless you use your car on the track, you will hate yourself for going with a pucked (unsprung) clutch for street duty.
This^^^^NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 15, 2018 7:34 amWhen you get the clutch in have a look around the metal parts, I am almost certain that the components will all be Valeo or Daikin. Like I said I have no experience with them but if they are like the numerous others that use quality components then its not a problem. You did a great job by NOT buying XTD, that is an example of Chinese knockoff trash. And my comment about the pucked "racing" clutches is because they are unforgiving and not meant for smooth engagement so they make the car feel jerky and not comfortable on the street. There is no need to ruin the ride if you're driving on the street as street clutches grip just as well.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll look at that once Andy's auto parts ships my stuff. Also, yes. I didn't buy XTD clutches just because it was too cheap to believe. I'd rather go with quality over budget and not having to do the job again because of a cheap Chinese part. Only thing I noticed on the competition clutch I got, the picture it showed wasn't pucked. (Not the gravity series)NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 15, 2018 7:34 amWhen you get the clutch in have a look around the metal parts, I am almost certain that the components will all be Valeo or Daikin. Like I said I have no experience with them but if they are like the numerous others that use quality components then its not a problem. You did a great job by NOT buying XTD, that is an example of Chinese knockoff trash. And my comment about the pucked "racing" clutches is because they are unforgiving and not meant for smooth engagement so they make the car feel jerky and not comfortable on the street. There is no need to ruin the ride if you're driving on the street as street clutches grip just as well.
Well, hopefully my competition clutch will do rather good. It's not the gravity series.DCaff300ZX wrote: ↑Fri Jun 15, 2018 10:30 amThis^^^^NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 15, 2018 7:34 amWhen you get the clutch in have a look around the metal parts, I am almost certain that the components will all be Valeo or Daikin. Like I said I have no experience with them but if they are like the numerous others that use quality components then its not a problem. You did a great job by NOT buying XTD, that is an example of Chinese knockoff trash. And my comment about the pucked "racing" clutches is because they are unforgiving and not meant for smooth engagement so they make the car feel jerky and not comfortable on the street. There is no need to ruin the ride if you're driving on the street as street clutches grip just as well.
From what I am reading you really don't need anything special, OEM will be fine period. Unless you are going to A) build to beyond 600WHP, and B) you are an experienced track guy, you are wasting time effort and money. ANY non-sprung clutch as most competition clutches are will NOT help you in any way, and instead provide a harsh, grabby, frustrating drive in most cases around town and in traffic.
As mentioned, of the aftermarket choices the Southbend clutches seem to have the best ratio of happiness and success when installed.