What prevents an ECU/ECM from being programmed?

[mrathell]

I have a 2005 Infinit G35 Coupe that was in a flood.

This is my little summer project to keep me busy. I only paid $1500 for it and I've only invested about $350 plus my time. I'm enjoying the process and I know there are no gaurantees it will work.

Ultimately I'm trying to find out what are all of the things that would prevent an ECM from being programmed because I've done all of the usual suspects but there apears to be someting I'm not doing.

So I took it to Nissan to program the replacement ECU & BCM.

The good news is that the Master Tech guy was able to connect to the:
- BCM
- ECU
- ABS
- AT
- IPDM

He ran a diagnostic with the Consult and everything came back with a PASS.

The master tech guy told me he his Consult computer successfully connected to everything but it wouldn't let him go further. After some analysis, he belives it's the A/C AUTO AMPLIFIER. Although I find it hard to believe something related to the A/C would prevent the ECU from being programmed.

He's not saying that it's definitly that but he belives that it could be the issue.

Some things I didn't catch:
- something about not getting the CANS
- The red blinking security light to the left of the steering wheel needed to blink at a certain point and it didn't


BACKGROUND INFO ON MY REBUILD

So far I did the following:

- Removed all of the interior
- removed the carpet
- took apart the dash
- drained the oil, transmission fluid, differential fluid and antifreeze
* engine oil - about a quart of water came out before oil started flowing.
* antifreeze - couldn't tell if that was infected but the overflow bottle was pretty full and white sediment in the bottom of the bottle.
* transmission fluid - the level on the dipstick was above the HOT level and the fluid was a caramel brown color.
* differential - nice and clean.

- Took out the spark plugs - no water or residue in there.
* I will need to change the driver side valve cover because the #6 spark plug was covered in oil. Seems to be a known design flaw. easy fix.
- removed brake pads, calipers and rotors. - I will see if I can reuse these.
- Put a 19mm socket in the main pulley with a breaker bar and was easily able to turn the engine.
- power washed off salt water deposit residue.
- lubricated and conditioned most rubber parts (i.e. bushings, CV boots, ball joints, hoses...)

ITEMS REPLACED SO FAR
- BCM / used / not programmed yet - $60
- ECU / used / not programmed yet - $50
- IPDM / big fuse box behind battery
- ABS
- used starter - $35 - free shipping
- used alternator - $45
- put in new fluids
- speedometer cluster - $50
* lights on the new cluster are:
- SLIP
- VDC OFF
- BRAKE
- oil
- battery
- SERVICE ENGINE SOON (it blinks)
- air bag
- tire pressure
- door open


ISSUES SO FAR

- the display in the center of the dash displays a lot of information and seems to be fully functional. (the outside temp and compass displays immediately, the rest of the stuff diplays about 10 seconds later)
- The radio/climate unit is toast.
- The windows don't let down - I took of the door panels and the motor and cables look awesome. It doesn't even look like water got in there, so I'm hoping it's just the master switch on the drivers door.
- the seats don't work.
- keyfob doesn't work.
- door lock switch doesn't work.
-The factory alarm light is always on but will blink about every 4 seconds when the key is in the ON position.


THINGS THAT DO WORK
- windshield wipers
- horn
- headlights (only the fog and blinkers, not the top headlights)
- tail lights
- brake lights
- reverse lights
- blinkers (although the blinkers don't display on the dash)
- sunroof
- interior lights
- windshield washer sprayer

THINGS I BELIEVE I NEED NISSAN TO DO
- program replacement keys
- program BCM
- program the ECU

[telcoman]

Welcome to NICO

An interesting summer project indeed.

I'm assuming time does not matter so I hope you figure it all out before it snows.

Since many items are working and a few do not, why not try to obtain a replacement wiring harness from a totaled vehicle that never was flooded. I assume you have a FSM for your vehicle with a wiring schematic diagram.

Whatever items still do not work after that would need to be replaced.

It is all battery (+) and ground (--)

Good luck

Telcoman

[mrathell]

Actually this morning I pull the entire dash off because even though I will change the clock display unit, I don't think it's the issue.

My assumption is the connectors on the wire harness are too corroded, mainly the connectors I believe are for the CAN communication lines.

So I will pull the entire wire harness and will replace it.

There are 3 big white connectors on this harness that I believe are for the CANS communication line.

[telcoman]

Here is a photo of my wiring harness from my 06 G35


Five trips to the dealer over a period of a few years with a flashing air bag light. The harness replacement finally fixed the problem.

Hope it works for you

Telcoman

[kmckis1029]

i need to find me one of these flodded vechicles and bring it back to life, i know thats a fun and fustrating project!!! the fact that the engine still turns and the spark plugs were not flooded is a great sign. I hope you get the car back in working order, please keep us updated. $1500 for a G wow...

where did you find the flooded G, id love to see the prices???

[telcoman]

I think the flooded number was 400'000 in New Jersey

Telcoman

[kmckis1029]

I think the flooded number was 400'000 in New Jersey

Telcoman

yeah i did a search yesterday... looks like a whole shipment of 2013 Infiniti got flooded up there... if you could get lucky and find a still running 2013 G or M you'd get the car for 1/4 the price. i saw some with just carpet damage, and others where the whole dash got flooded and sand on the speed odometer. it varied widely...

title laws in GA allow you to rebuild two salvage titles a year without being a used car dealer, i thought that was cool.

[Fezzik]

Make sure you have to correct part number modules that are related to each other.