What oil should i put in my s14?

[GrilledCheese33]

So its getting time for my baby's first oil change. I was wondering what brand and weight i should put in it. I checked my fsm and it said nothing. And btw, i was thinking penzoil high mileage. But all suggestions will be helpful. Car has 117,000 miles. And what brand filter to? I know no fram

[BadMojo]

I use Valvoline Synpower 5w40 and Nissan filters. I've also, in the past, used Valvoline Durablend (conventional/synthetic blend) in 5w30 for winter and 10w40 for summer.

Some folks will say that using synthetic on a higher mileage engine will cause leaks. I believe it is true that a 5w30 synthetic oil will be thinner than a conventional oil rated at 5w30, but if it leaks you've got some bad seals. The oil isn't the cause of the problem, it's just exposing an existing problem.

For the record, other than a leaking front crank seal that's been repaired (fairly common item to repair on a 240sx) I haven't had any problems leaking oil.

I've heard good things about Purolator filters (my dad uses them all the time on his cars) and you can't go wrong with Mobil1 filters. That filter that K&N makes looks pretty groovy since it has the nut on the end to help break it lose when it's time to change your oil.

Both K&N (pretty sure it's part # HP-2008 from what I can see on their website) and the Mobil 1 will most likely be more expensive than an OE filter.

[tyrannix]

ask any engine builder about putting pennzoil in your car... and they will ask why you hate the car so much

(i havnt done so myself, but many ive talked to have found a rediculously thick sludge on pennzoil engines as opposed to any other)

and mobil 1 synthetic is the winner for what you will find at any normal store

royal purple rocks the house, and if you have a ton of cash, use redline oil every time

(im using mobil 1 for my engine break in, then royal purple for interval changes)

[Rex]

Here's one of the results, I got from searching KA and oil ... Hope it helps.

... As for syn I have used nothing But syns, for many years but Dino oils are getting better and better and i migth consider one for a 150k mile car thats not turboed.

Also there are no reasons to go with a 5w-30 in summer, Especially on an older motor, no matter what the manual says.

Budget plays a reason also.I run Redline 10w-40 in my car, its one of very very vew VII free formulations.But my application is different than his.

Recommendation:If youre on abit of abudget:-The cheapest oil thats still good is Chevron Supreme use it in 10w-40 in summer and 5w-30 in winter, it is a Group II+ base stock, so its as good as it as an oil gets, w/o being a syn.

$1,15 last at Walmart last time I checked.

If you intend to drive your car very hard, I'd suggest maybe valvoline Durablend 10-40 in summer and 5w-30 in winter.

If you turbo your car I'd go with Mobil1 in 0w-40 in winter and 15w-50 in summer .

Stay away from "high mile formulations" as they add additives to make high intervals possible but those also take the place of lube stock and likely reduce lubricity.

PS: Fram is a known bad filter compared to AC Delco, OEM, any Mahle made filter, even SuperTech filters have better internals than the Frams.I dont think there is a brand on teh market that has fewer pleats less filtration and poorer internal construction ( which may result in cardboard ebing sent thru your engine.)

[chrislis]

i have a 128,000 mile KA running valvoline full synthetic and no leaks present!

[BGdude]

SR or KA? Around here, on turbo cars we use Valvolin Racing VR1 20w50 and change it every 1500 miles. Those cars include Skyline, Supra MKIV, S13/S14 SR's, RX-7, Type-R Civic, and an ST205 GT-Four. If its the KA, I would go with normal Valvoline 20w50 and change it around 2500 miles. Dont waste your money on synthetic oil. As far as filter, there is nothing better than OEM Nissan, so take a ride to your local Nissan dealer

[chrislis]

im using a K&N filter just because i got it for 15 bucks and hey it works. does save SLIGHT gas mileage as well.

[Mr.Sandman]

did anyone mention LUCAS....5w30, 10w30, whatever you prefer. Everyone has their on opinion. But always use full Syn & and a bottle of lucas, Black label for the ka.

[grimple1]

synthetic. other than that it's your choice. I run Mobil 1.

[karmakaze]

Dont waste your money on synthetic oil.

what sort of crack are you smoking?

[BGdude]

I won't even bother with you. Next time you want an answer, think before clicking on the "post" button...

[0wn3r]

So its getting time for my baby's first oil change. Car has 117,000 miles.

holy crap! a record setting 117,000 miles on an S14 without a single oil change!! lol. jk

if you just bought it, look inside the drivers side door for a barcode. if you have one, then try taking it to valvoline or wherever it may (or may not) say to see what was put in there last.

it sounds like your car is stock, but for clarification- next time you should put what application it's for. ie) engine (and condition) + modifications (turbo, etc).

more specific the post = more specific the reply

I won't even bother with you. Next time you want an answer, think before clicking on the "post" button...

i'm actually curious why you said that if you care to explain it any longer. thx

[180fan]

oh man, bad idea using Mobil 1 for your break in tyrannix.

I've used pennzoil for 20 minutes. Used it to get the crap out of my motor after it's rebuild. Not too bad at doing that. I don't really see what's so bad about it though, as long as you're doing oil changes at regular intervals and not letting it gunk up, it should be sufficient for normal driving.

Now that said, if you're already on the way to switching to synthetics and don't mind blowing a few extra bucks, I would say go with Mobil 1 for your regular stuff...

Unless you've got cash then Redline is good, but...Motul is better.

Oil filters -> nothin beats OEM. Tried K&N, they don't seem to last too long compared to the OEM. Use the OEM filters. You need them.

[GrilledCheese33]

holy crap! a record setting 117,000 miles on an S14 without a single oil change!! lol. jk

if you just bought it, look inside the drivers side door for a barcode. if you have one, then try taking it to valvoline or wherever it may (or may not) say to see what was put in there last.

it sounds like your car is stock, but for clarification- next time you should put what application it's for. ie) engine (and condition) + modifications (turbo, etc).

more specific the post = more specific the reply

i'm actually curious why you said that if you care to explain it any longer. thx

sorry guys, i made this thread when i was tired...... Yes its for tha engine.I bought my car w/ 114,400 miles and it now has 117,200 miles. the oil was changed right before i bought it. Im not gonna do synthetic, I think its too much money. So i'm still undecided. I think i might call the place that did the last oil change and find out. The car is bone stock and its stayin that way for a while. I will definately go oem filters tho More suggestions will be helpful on what brands of regular oil is good. My dad uses havoline in his 95 s-10 but thats just b/c its the cheapest and its only his work truck. So i dunno, give me some more feedback please! Thanks.

Bg Dude, just shut up. Motor oil is nothing to get hyped up arguing over

[tyrannix]

im still waiting for a part before i can install the engine, what causes you to say bad for mobil 1 on a break in?

oh man, bad idea using Mobil 1 for your break in tyrannix.

I've used pennzoil for 20 minutes. Used it to get the crap out of my motor after it's rebuild. Not too bad at doing that. I don't really see what's so bad about it though, as long as you're doing oil changes at regular intervals and not letting it gunk up, it should be sufficient for normal driving.

Now that said, if you're already on the way to switching to synthetics and don't mind blowing a few extra bucks, I would say go with Mobil 1 for your regular stuff...

Unless you've got cash then Redline is good, but...Motul is better.

Oil filters -> nothin beats OEM. Tried K&N, they don't seem to last too long compared to the OEM. Use the OEM filters. You need them.

[Mr.Sandman]

dude, this topic has been discussed over and over. Please lock this cuz too many people are telling you different answers. Do your own research on conv vs syn. Then read about additives...Figure that stuff out for yourself. since you say "your too cheap to go with syn".

[GrilledCheese33]

dude, this topic has been discussed over and over. Please lock this cuz too many people are telling you different answers. Do your own research on conv vs syn. Then read about additives...Figure that stuff out for yourself. since you say "your too cheap to go with syn".

No bro. im not cheap at all, im actually beginning to consider synthetic. I think im gonna go with mobil 1 synthetic, anyone have any idea on what weight to go with?

-Thanks

[0wn3r]

dude, this topic has been discussed over and over. Please lock this cuz too many people are telling you different answers. Do your own research on conv vs syn. Then read about additives...Figure that stuff out for yourself. since you say "your too cheap to go with syn".

this is why i'm saying be specific grilledcheese

and i kinda figured you wanted oil for your engine man..... by "ie. engine" i meant WHAT engine it is. KA, SR, RB...

o well, don't go really cheap if you like your car, and you don't really have to go expensive with mobil 1 or royal purple.

as far as weights are concerned, i didn't read your profile but you gotta say if your winters get really cold or summers very hot and go from there.

[GrilledCheese33]

If you would just take a second to look at my sig, My car is bone stock meaning it has a KA!!!!!!!!!!! Yes A KA! Who would have ever guessed? And second, if you would take one more second to see my location, it says florida. It gets hot in the summers and not too bad cold in the winters. There ya go.....

[lee.]

If you would just take a second to look at my sig, My car is bone stock meaning it has a KA!!!!!!!!!!! Yes A KA! Who would have ever guessed? And second, if you would take one more second to see my location, it says florida. It gets hot in the summers and not too bad cold in the winters. There ya go.....

You live in Florida, you don't have a winter. 10-40w

[2s4k0y09]

I live in the Chicagoland area, and with our extreme weather shifts from season to season, I run 10W-30 in the fall/ winter, and a 5W-30 in the spring summer. My motor is N/A and has just under 95K on it. I love the royal purple synthetic oils. Redline is very nice as well. I have been running RP in my motor for about a year or so and no leaks anywhere. I guess it is more of personal preference, but synthetic is the way to go, runs smoother I think.

[brisknfade]

My Ka has about 155k miles on it now, and i switched from 10w30 Mobil 1 to 15w50 Mobil 1 about a week ago at my last oil change. This is in SoCal, so of course it gets stupid hot but at the same time pretty cold at night. So far no problems, car feels the same as before really, just takes like 5 seconds of cranking to get it started in the morning

[VinceSez]

hey this might be a newb question, but how many bottles of oil do you need for an oil change????? sorry i don't change my oil, i usually let a shop do it for me, and i was considering buying my own "specific oil" and having them put it in for me.

[brisknfade]

4 quarts should do it for the KADE, 3 3/4 for a KAE.

[574-240sx]

I would stay away from vegetable oil. I use Mobile 1 15w50 in my SR and Castrol 20w50 in my KA-T, they aren't driven in the winter months.

[Bosrudorfer]

Mobil 1 10w30 here.