What OBD scanner is good? These one’s that claim to diagnosis ABS/SRS f**king suck

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98_Q45
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This has been the 3rd OBD scanner I’ve brought that doesn’t seem to be able to communicate with anything airbag or ABS related.

It was from harbor freight granted, but it seemed so promising from the design. However it was a clearance item so maybe that had to do with it. But it pulls the same regular OBD codes, however when it comes to figuring out why my 3 ABS/Slip lights are on: it says can’t communicate. Which I’m sure is going to mean I need to buy the more expensive one, in which case I rather just pay for a diagnostic because, even reading codes isn’t a guarantee of knowing why it’s coming on to begin with.

Problem is, I’ve taken it to a couple shops and even the Infiniti dealer: and occasionally I’ll get told they can’t pull the codes, because the system won’t communicate etc etc. So that’s kinda why I brought my own. However I can connect a regular dongle and read codes from my phone. And at least one other shop has been able to pull up codes before as well.


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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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I think the trouble you're having is that early Nissan OBD-II's had separate ports and separate comm algorithms for general scanners and the Consult-II. The oblong OBD port basically just talks to the bit-bang K-line, which a lot of modern scanners either don't support or don't handle properly. The gray Consult port next to the fusebox is a clocked bus similar to SPI, which is more capable but also isn't true CAN. Same deal, a lot of modern scanners don't know what to do with it. Our dealership possesses probably the only working Consult-II in Arkansas, and cars like yours are exactly the reason I refuse to let the damn thing die. Anyway, to get full use of the oblong port you need a scanner that has full support for old school K-line.

98_Q45
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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Thanks, I’m also reading the FSM in the ABS/TCS section that’s saying something about grounding a pin in the OBD with a suitable harness. Not understanding what that means though. Also seeing there might be an ABS port on the passenger side behind the side carpet? I took that off today but I didn’t see a way to hookup a scanner, and I didn’t want to take more things apart either.

I’m just not in the mood to get too technical though. I been working on trying to get my front shocks: I would say it’s a wheel speed sensor code since it seems a strut or mount is blown, however my light is coming with the added symptom of some shudder as well. Almost like it’s coming from the transmission itself: but shifting and all other engine operations are running like usual.

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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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The ABS and traction control (TAC) modules each have their own blinky-light diag. For the ABS you need to access the gray Consult connector under the fusebox on the driver's side, drawing "A" on BR-59 shows exactly which pin to ground. The ABS then flashes the Slip Lamp to tell you where it hurts. The TAC has its own built-in LED like the old ECM's and you don't need to ground anything, see BR-70.
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 8%2Fbr.pdf

98_Q45
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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Thanks, I did check that out the other week to see what I could come up with. But I returned my useless “ABS/SRS” code reader because it wasn’t communicating s***.

I was supposed to had taken it to my mechanic last week, but I didn’t want to get into a rabbit hole of diagnostics again…but in the meantime I replaced the MAF sensor just as precautionary as I’ve seen the same ABS SLIP lights come on when a wire for the maf connector broke. It’s also come on intermittently when I’ve had intake gasket leak.

But I replaced maf and checked wiring again, all lights still on. So I guess now it’s off to the mechanic for a diagnostic but even last time I went, the said they couldn’t connect to the OBD using 2-3 different scanners.

So I’m like idk, just f*** annoyed right now lol. And I don’t even want to go anywhere to the dealer because lately many of them have stopped wanting to diagnose older vehicles. Not to mention the $179 diag fee

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Jap Burd
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Car: ‘95 Q45
Location: In a van, by the river

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I found one that’s works on obd1.

98_Q45
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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As an update, I decided to just take it to the Infiniti dealer and pay the $200 to have it diagnosed, versus buying a scanner running about the same price and still not be able to figure it out.

I think what happens is, my cheapo $5 mobile scanner reads, but then it doesn’t seem to disconnect the ECU properly. Leaving it “hung up” to where it thinks it’s connected but isn’t. So after not driving it for 3 weeks, it seemed to finally “disconnect” and was readable at the dealer fortunately.


Turns out my ABS solenoid is bad. Not too urgent to fix but now need to look around and see where to get one…maybe the trusty part souq or Amayama

98_Q45
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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Update to this: sourced an ABS “relay” from overseas on a website that sells stuff for the Nissan skyline: worked out perfect fits. ABs light off. However, it didn’t go down without a fight: came home after letting vehicle sit, it drained my battery to where it couldn’t be charged up. Somehow the relay clicked on and wouldn’t go back off.

ABS lights aren’t to be ignored on these ones lol.

UK-SRi
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Jap Burd wrote:
Wed Mar 11, 2026 11:48 am
I found one that’s works on obd1.
What was the reader that worked, is it readily available?


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