dont know much about the L motor need help and what hp you can get out of them? thanks

Mine was pushing about 135-140 to the wheels (estimate) with a stock head and cam.. Just carbs, pistons, rods, header, and bigger bore...

It was a bored L20

EDIT: After doing research I re-evaluated the power I was putting out, since I never had it dynoed.


Modified by S13Teddy at 11:40 PM 2/16/2008

in ye olden days...they couldn't get much more than 100hp per liter due to the heads.

any idea of the CR yours was running Teddy?

what is the difference. Between a87 head and a u67?

if i could do anything id run a l20 block with a l16 head

BRE was getting 150whp from the L20b back in the day, carbs and ignition seems to be the weakpoints, get some webbers and ditch the points

thats what ive done so far.electronic in stead of points and im running a 6al bow also.havent maned up yet on the webbers though.

This a dyno chart from a L28/3 liter stroker with a T67. I would be curious to see how much HP someone could get out of a 2.2/2.3 liter L series motor with a properly ported head and a decent sized turbo.BTW the motor is in a 510.

i got a L20 complete for sale runs strong complete engine tranny carb headers all u need to do is bolt it in your car and have fun chirps all the way to 4th gear

Mr1der wrote:any idea of the CR yours was running Teddy?

I honestly have no clue. I'll have to ask my buddy on that. I don't think it was very high though.

jakearmstrong wrote:dont know much about the L motor need help and what hp you can get out of them? thanks

you could always take a NAPZ 22 block and put on a L16 head..... all you need to do is angle an oil passage and get the right head gasket.

I did this and it is a sweet engine. Very common now-a-days. Stay away from the NAPZ 24... too tall and the block tends to crack at where the head bolts screw in.

I have read about a LZ hybrid.It was a Z24 crank with ths counterweights cut back .500",Z22S rods,and KA24 std. pistons.The block was a L20B out of an 81 720.

I would get the strongest L series engine of them all to start, which is the L20B. It is a torquey and powerfull engine. You need to address the key areas of engine performance:1)Gas riddance from engine in an efficient manner.(out)2)Intake set up which flows smooth and more efficiently.(in )3)Ignition spark which can deliver and which allows engine performance. For item number one: Add headers for better efficiency in exhausting gases. Short primary headers ( tubes coming out from the engine mating area towards the collector, where all these 4 pipes converge into one thick pipe ) are meant for stop and go, city driving, better take off. Long primaries ( longer sections, converging far back towards rear of car ) are meant for high RPM, highway use, high RPM race, Most power gains are seen at high RPM. Not the ideal city header.

For Item number 2:Better intake system,which consists of intake manifold and carburetor(s).*)A set of Weber DCOE / Dellorto DHLA / Solex / Mikuni sidedraught carburetors {DCOE / DHLA / Solex / Mikuni X 2 }.*) or a single sidedraught carburetor set with a good flowing single sidedraught manifold like a Lynx brand cross flow manifold ...( important if using one only sidedraught )...{ DCOE / DHLA / Solex / Mikuni X 1 }.

On these two options, you can use a sidedraught carburetor(s) like the Weber DCOE ( most available as we speak, hence everyone reference to a sidedraught as "DCOE".) or the Dellorto DHLA , or a Solex , or a Mikuni carburetor(s). With the sidedraught set up, you will have to use a sidedraught intake manifold. For a single sidedraught set up, the best manifold in existence is the Lynx manifold, because when using a single sidedraught, as opposed to a twin set up in which each cylinder has its supply, in the case of the single sidedraught set up, a regular manifold creates disturbance in the distribution of the intake charge. With the Lynx Manifold, said manifold is designed with a cross over pattern, delivering the best posible distribution with a single carburetor, and allowing you to use one sidedraught instead of two carburetors maintaining good mileage and great power gains.

*) or a downdraught carburetor set up like a Weber 38 DGES ( better flow than the 32/36 which is a milder version ) {DGES X1 } . With this option you can use your stock intake manifold , or you can look for a Cannon downdraught intake manifold for more efficiency. Usually a Weber downdraught set up works fine with the stock manifold, but if available, use the Cannon manifold which has an improved flow.

For item number 3:*) Get an electronic distributor out of a 620 pick up truck, trucks which were sold with the L series engine, but with electronic distributors. That added to an MSD ignition module and a MSD ignition coil will give you excelent spark to be able to maximize your carburetor/ headers package.

Later on you can think about other stuff like a cam and cylinder head porting.Those are cool things to do, but not the basic stuff. Banking on a good engine, these improvements about intake, exhaust and ignition will give you a fun, powerfull and reliable engine to drive around.

You could buy my LZ2.2 already setup with all the go fast products you'd otherwise would have to source then install and hope it's done correctly. If you'd like a list well, ok.

W53 Head on top of a `82 200sx Z22E blockDamb Cam Setup with spray barAluminum flywheel with new roadster clutch720 Truck 5-speed transEI distribuitor recurved for the 10:1 compressionMSD 6AJacobs plug wiresZtherapy 240Z SU carbs with profiled needles to properly feed the beastShorty header280Z 60 amp alternatorZ Car gear reduction starterTorque? oh ya Here There and Everywhere

I would like to do a single downdraught carb on my L20B which is in my 620 truck. I searched for a cannon intake manifold but only came across a manifold for a dual carb set up. Was there a factory intake that flowed well or is the best to go with an aftermarket application ?

S13Teddy wrote:Mine was pushing about 135-140 to the wheels (estimate) without a head or cam.. Just carbs, pistons, rods, headers, and bigger bore...

It was a bored L20

EDIT: After doing research I re-evaluated the power I was putting out, since I never had it dynoed.

Modified by S13Teddy at 10:56 PM 12/26/2007

You mean header right?

Oops sorry. Yes, header. Thanks Josh

go l20 and be happy. it's probably the cheapest and easiest way to add some more power to the 510

It really depends on what you want to do with the carI built a very conservative L/Z 24 motor with a small cam, big ports and 38 dellorto’s It made 120 Hp but with 150 Ft lbs of torque which was great for driving around town.I decided I wanted a little more Hp out of it so I installed a custom Rebello cam and OER 45s but never finished dialing it in so I don’t really know what it makes yet (got sidetracked by a new 510 project)I also know a guy who makes over 200 from a L 16 But that is a total race motor and can’t really be driver on the street .To me, for a street motor you want as much displacement and torque as you can get… (Which is why I am building a KA with a BC stroker kit for the new car)

yellowcar wrote:It really depends on what you want to do with the carI built a very conservative L/Z 24 motor with a small cam, big ports and 38 dellorto’s It made 120 Hp but with 150 Ft lbs of torque which was great for driving around town.

You have a very nicely done build. I always think of your engine when someone says they made 145whp (estimated) out of some mildly modified L20b. ya right! Still, a low geared L-series seems faster than it really is. I still had fun driving my 90hp L18

Thanks

I had a great time beating the crap out the original 1800 that was in the car. You're right it, seemed faster than it was, but still it went pretty good.

People make some pretty big claims about HP just makes them look insecure and childish to me.

120 HP actually seems fairly low for that L/Z motor but hey, that's what it makes so why lie? I was pretty happy with the torque number though, The torque makes the car really fun to drive.

yellowcar wrote:I also know a guy who makes over 200 from a L 16 But that is a total race motor and can’t really be driver on the street .

Is there any way to get information on this l16 engine, also what is the difference between the l16 and the l20b engine????

Max

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L28?

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Hi..

I have a great little L 20 rebuild for sale - .40 over pistons, shaved head, new bearings timing, electronic ignition, freshly machined flywheel and new clutch. Have all the goodies you will need. New head with stainless valves etc. All work done by professional machine shop.

Contact me for more details and pictures. Stone Age