I went to check out a mint '89 hatch advertised in the paper. Just under 66K original miles, absolutly clean and 100% rust free (stored in winters). It had a 6 month old Maaco white paint job, aftermarket front bumper, side skirts, and rear spoiler, wheel max 17s, no name intake, N1 dual and he had some other parts that come with it that he never put on, brand new still in the packging. Parts included Pacesetter header, huge tach, 2 autometer gauges, A pillar 2 gauge pod, Nology plug wires, Venom performance chip, and I think that's it. He got the car appraised at an auto/home appraisal place. They said it was worth $8700. He was asking $6900. How much would you pay?
I'm assuming this is a pretty rare find, such low mileage and NO rust anywhere for an s13 hatch. Am I wrong?
what is this s13 worth? $8700???
Maaco paint jobs suck horribly, it'll start chipping soon. That should actually bring down the value of the car. Also, mods bring down the overall value of the car (I would not buy a car with mods) Blue Book value is just under 2 grand as well. The guy is retarded, you could get a kouki S14 for $6900. I say offer him $2500-$2700. I wouldn't pay any more because the car is going to need to be painted within a year.
Kinda reminds me of when some dumbass was trying to sell an FC with 11k miles for $20k on rx7club.:rolleyes :rolleyes
Kinda reminds me of when some dumbass was trying to sell an FC with 11k miles for $20k on rx7club.:rolleyes :rolleyes
well i just bought a 89 240sx with 91k on it in great condition from the original owner (best friends -sister's step-mom) and i have about an 1" stack of maintance papers so she obvously took good care of it. i only paid 2000 for it and it is awsome. that seems like a bit high for a used car but if it is as nice as you and he says i would say go for it.
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Kaioshin1982
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- Car: Not a 240 =) Thinking of getting one again...
f*** the appraisal. It's simple, the value of the car is not $8900. He probably told them it was a ferrari of something. Nothing on that car makes it worth more than blue book.
1.) s*** paint job = negative value2.) nology(?) wires = no value3.) unknown intake = no value4.) exhaust, header = no value5.) pointless Vemon chip = no value6.) body kit = maybe some value (if it isn't a knock off)7.) wheels = little value (wheel max? maybe if they were Work)
Some people think that everything they spend on the car adds to the value which is wrong. If this was true, my car would be worth more than $10k easliy. Go ahead and let him laugh at you if you offer him what it's ACTUALLY worth. You'll be the one laughing 5 months later when the car is still for sale and you have a 240SX already.
1.) s*** paint job = negative value2.) nology(?) wires = no value3.) unknown intake = no value4.) exhaust, header = no value5.) pointless Vemon chip = no value6.) body kit = maybe some value (if it isn't a knock off)7.) wheels = little value (wheel max? maybe if they were Work)
Some people think that everything they spend on the car adds to the value which is wrong. If this was true, my car would be worth more than $10k easliy. Go ahead and let him laugh at you if you offer him what it's ACTUALLY worth. You'll be the one laughing 5 months later when the car is still for sale and you have a 240SX already.
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rousie13
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The guy knows people want 240's and he has some stuff done to it, so he knows people will pay it. Maybe not one of us, but someone will buy it. I mean i had 167k on my car with just bomex body kit, wheels and tires, Tein He's, and the strut bars and I was offered $6k cash in hand for my car. He had a truck with a trailer to take it away if I agreed.
I'm salivating over the lack of rust on this car. My current s13 has a lot of rust on the underbody which makes me think twice about every modification I want to make to it. I want a perfect s13 hatch that I can strip down and weld in a cage for racing. Are these 100% rust free s13 hatches as rare as I think they are?
Well, the market does dictate price, but
He's asking $9,000 firm, could you make the one you're looking at into this one for $2,100?PalmerWMD wrote:1989 240 SX with Silvia front end conversion and SR20 DET
This was on car when I bought it
SR20DET (redtop)Boost GaugeBlitz BOVGreddy FMICTurbo TimerACT ClutchWalbro 255lGriffin radiatorSilvia Front endGreddy DownpipeApexiN1 catbackGeneric Cone filter
This is what I put on car in last 10 weeks:
Greddy oil PanNismo Mechanical LSD (set up as 1.5 way)Boost Controller.Tein Springs all around.KYB Struts allaroundComplete (!) Energy Polyurethane bushing kit (20 Book hours install!)Enkei "racing" wheels with Ultra Sticky Vikto Racers in the rear (AutoCross tires) and Dunlop Sports in the front (all 225/50 Zr16's)K&N Cone filter with addtional center intake.New thermostatNew Battery
Flaws:Poor paint job its recent but very bad, (touch up needed some scractehss on car from attempt at wet-sanding according to most may be buffed out, even so if I were to keep it it would liekly just get new paintjob)Interior is partially stripped for weight, details over phone.
I have almost $12k in the car, asking 9k firm.
rousie13 wrote:Why not just tear yours down and wire brush everything(or grind, cut/weld), spray it, then you have a spotless car too.
What do you do with a frame rail that is rusted through on one end and completly bent out of shape on the other? How can you just grind away rust on sway bars when it is actually gouging holes in it?
Not only is rust the problem, but brittle wires, weak bolts, cracked bushings and boots, etc.
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cleets-s13
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it would cost less in the "minor" repairs and/or replacement parts for your car now, than to go and drop 7k on a car that is no faster than your, not really "different" than yours, plus you would save money building the car now because of the "lack" of car cost, im assuming you own the car and are not making payments. cars already paid for are a lot easier to upgrade.
So you are saying I should replace every wire, bushing, boot, etc and grind down pretty much every surface on the underbody. Plus I use this car year round in Wisconsin, so I would need to buy a second car for winter anyway if I decide to restore this one.
And I wouldn't pay asking price. The guy made sure I knew that it was negotiable. He needs to sell it quick, too. Like in a week. I would go in with a low ball offer, probly around $3500 and hope no one offers more (I figure I could sell all or most of the parts he's including for at least $500).
And I wouldn't pay asking price. The guy made sure I knew that it was negotiable. He needs to sell it quick, too. Like in a week. I would go in with a low ball offer, probly around $3500 and hope no one offers more (I figure I could sell all or most of the parts he's including for at least $500).
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rousie13
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- Location: Delaware, OH
spitz7985 wrote:So you are saying I should replace every wire, bushing, boot, etc and grind down pretty much every surface on the underbody. Plus I use this car year round in Wisconsin, so I would need to buy a second car for winter anyway if I decide to restore this one.
And I wouldn't pay asking price. The guy made sure I knew that it was negotiable. He needs to sell it quick, too. Like in a week. I would go in with a low ball offer, probly around $3500 and hope no one offers more (I figure I could sell all or most of the parts he's including for at least $500).
Why would you want a car that had a spotless under carriage if your going to just run it all year anyway? This will make this spotless car rust, so why bother? If your going to run it in the summer, different story. And yes replace everything, it will be like a brand new car for a lot less. My antisways were rusted, so I bought ST antisways. You replace your worn out factory parts with tougher and better aftermarket parts......car tuning.
A rustless body is worth more, but they aren't super rare. I paid a bit more than my car was worth KBB-wise, but it was a Miami car with NO rust on it and no options(which was surprisingly hard to find). The paint was all scratched up and faded on mine, and it has some pretty big dents all over it.
I wasn't exactly looking for a show car tho', and when I finally found a rust-free S13 that had no options, I jumped at it.
FYI - I paid $2.2k for the '92 S13 hatch with 147k on the body, 127k on the motor(that had a cheap Korean clutch that blew up 1 month after I got it... so you never know what you're buying...). So I didn't exactly get raped on the price, but me and him both knew that the thing would sell for his $3k asking price within a day or two. In fact, he had over 8 calls for the car in the 2 days between me looking at the car and agreeing to it and me picking it up with money in hand. I was the first person to look at the car, and around Atlanta they're in VERY high demand.
So it does depend on your area...
BTW - look at southern states for a rustless car. I've never actually seen a car with lots of rust on it down here, since it snows about once every 3-5 years. Heck, I've NEVER seen a badly rusted car down in Alabama where I'm from. I think the last time it snowed more than 1/8" was in 1988 or so.
I wasn't exactly looking for a show car tho', and when I finally found a rust-free S13 that had no options, I jumped at it.
FYI - I paid $2.2k for the '92 S13 hatch with 147k on the body, 127k on the motor(that had a cheap Korean clutch that blew up 1 month after I got it... so you never know what you're buying...). So I didn't exactly get raped on the price, but me and him both knew that the thing would sell for his $3k asking price within a day or two. In fact, he had over 8 calls for the car in the 2 days between me looking at the car and agreeing to it and me picking it up with money in hand. I was the first person to look at the car, and around Atlanta they're in VERY high demand.
So it does depend on your area...
BTW - look at southern states for a rustless car. I've never actually seen a car with lots of rust on it down here, since it snows about once every 3-5 years. Heck, I've NEVER seen a badly rusted car down in Alabama where I'm from. I think the last time it snowed more than 1/8" was in 1988 or so.
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Rockenreno
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jrc90240sx
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rousie13 wrote:Why would you want a car that had a spotless under carriage if your going to just run it all year anyway? This will make this spotless car rust, so why bother? If your going to run it in the summer, different story. And yes replace everything, it will be like a brand new car for a lot less. My antisways were rusted, so I bought ST antisways. You replace your worn out factory parts with tougher and better aftermarket parts......car tuning.
Maybe you misunderstood my post.
Plus HICAS anti sway bars are nearly as good as Whiteline or other aftermarket bars, so I've heard. I can tell you they are WAY better then the stock '89 bars.spitz7985 wrote:Plus I use this car year round in Wisconsin, so I would need to buy a second car for winter anyway if I decide to restore this one.
Restoring the car to perfect condition would be a very hard thing to do, and not cheap at all considering I don't have a welder and would probly end up buying new control arms and bushings and such. And add in a winter beater.