what is the rogue's DRL socket type?

[insomnia816]

I am looking for either whiter (5~6k) halogen or led bulb replacement to rogue's original dull yellowish DRL (canadian model). Is it the HB3 socket one I seen on somewhere in the forum and if I use the led bulbs, will there be extra procedures to be taken other than just plug and play?

[THawks]

Wow it has been a long night when I have to read a post three times to understand what I someone is asking and answer it three times in three ways that don't pertain to what is being asked. Sorry I can't help though I thought I could. Ignore this post, I am going to bed :P

Modified by THawks at 12:31 AM 3/24/2010
Modified by THawks at 12:34 AM 3/24/2010

[philipa_240sx]

Actually, the DRL's are the high beams that are running at half intensity/power. The yellow you see is because the bulb filament is running at a much lower voltage... kind of like a light dimmer found in your house. Go ahead, flip your high beams on and see what happens.... you will see the difference.

As for bulb replacement, an LED swap is a bad idea... you will lose your high beams! You could try so called 'brighter' bulbs... but they likely will not be much brighter because they are running at half power during DRL operation.

In case you need bulb sizes, they can be found on pg 8-25 of your owners manual.

[Pescakl1]

To complete Philip's answer, yes you can use the LEDs replacement but you will lose the high beam function, but if you live in suburban part of the country, that may not be a big loss. How many of you have used their high beams?

Another way to get around this yellow lighting is do what I did: Buy 8500K halogen bulb for your high beam (in fact it is just a normal bulb with blue coating on top of it). Run at half power (for DRL), you will get something around 5600-6000K which is what you are looking for.Remember that with this solution, you will still have the high beam function but with less lumens as some of the light is filtered by the coating. But once again, how many times you will use your high beams?

I have a comparison pic to show you but Photobucket website is going totally mad right now (it is under virus attack or they just became weird?), so I will post it later.

[insomnia816]

Thanks for the info! I think I will choose halogen replacement bulb instead from the local auto shop. Right now I just need to figure out the percentage of the lumina I am looking for. The packaging on the bulbs usually dont list lumina, instead they list as percentage.

[Elton Noway]

I am looking for either whiter (5~6k) halogen or led bulb replacement to rogue's original dull yellowish DRL (canadian model)?

I just need to figure out the percentage of the lumina I am looking for. The packaging on the bulbs usually dont list lumina, instead they list as percentage.

Hi insomnia816 ... The problem with "Percentage" of light output is its a relative term and will vary by manufacturer. It's not an ideal way to determine what bulb you want or what you will end up with because advertised "light percentage" is not a regulated measurement of light output. For instance... let say I'm a headlamp manufacturer. I could say my bulb is 40% brighter than a stock filament headlamp... but thats an empty statement (marketing hype) because you don't know "whose" stock headlamp I am comparing mine to. As a manufacturer it would be in my best interest to compare my headlamp to the dimmest stock headlamp on the market. I might even be able to say mine is 60%, 80% or even 100% brighter. (But brighter than what?)

Your best bet may be to shop on line. There are tons of reputable suppliers online where you can find plenty of information on the various bulb types and manufacturers... and in the end... you will know what you are buying. It would be a shame to lay out good money for something that doesn't deliver the results you were hoping for.

To make sure you get the desired light output after your modification you really need to know the Kevin rating of the bulb you are buying. Why? Two reasons. 1) Because as the Kelvin goes lower, the light shifts from blue/white... to yellow. 2) Because as the Kelvin goes higher the less light output (lumens) you get.

As you go above 6000K you begin sacrificing light output. 4300K is typically considered to be the standard because it offers the highest light output (number of measured lumens) On the downside the 4300K lamps are considered (by some members) to have a slight yellow-ish tinge. For the people who find the color unattractive 5000-6000k is a better choice. In this range the bulbs offer a "whiter" light output yet only sacrifice a little in the lumen department.

The idea offered by Pescakl1 (i.e. installing an 8500 Kelvin lamp so it will operate at the half rated output)... seems like a good idea however without testing it, I'm not sure if the voltage to lumen output is a one to one ratio. In other words I'm not sure dropping the voltage by half will yield 4250 Kelvins. If another member has done this please let us know.

In the meantime, here's a visual reference for the Kelvin ratings:

[Pescakl1]

Another way to get around this yellow lighting is do what I did: Buy 8500K halogen bulb for your high beam (in fact it is just a normal bulb with blue coating on top of it). Run at half power (for DRL), you will get something around 5600-6000K which is what you are looking for.Remember that with this solution, you will still have the high beam function but with less lumens as some of the light is filtered by the coating. But once again, how many times you will use your high beams?

Photobucket is working good on my computer, so here is the picture:

Passenger side bulb is OEM, driver side one is the 8500K bulb used at half power for DRL.

Hopes this helps.

[Elton Noway]

Passenger side bulb is OEM, driver side one is the 8500K bulb used at half power for DRL.

Wow... Cool!.. Great to see the comparison. Thanks for your photo!

(cropped)

No doubt about it... you can clearly see the 8500 on the right is a "whiter" light that the half power OEM stock lamp on the left. The intensity of the 8500 even appears to be the same or better!

[insomnia816]

Thanks guys for the comparison! I had my Easters off just to compare the difference between the halogen type and led type DRL's for rogue. From my testing the LED's wont lit on as DRL due to low power error recognition. But when I flick my High beam it works well but also turns on my low beam HID's that I installed. Even if I unplug the 9005 drl bulbs the low beam will still turn on when I flick it. I didn't realized I would need a resistor (50W) in order to had the LED work during DRL mode before I visit the store again and exchange for the blue tinted super white 4300k one's. And yes it runs but at a dimmer comapre to the OEM's but whiter. So I am now debating myself whether to get the 8500k (if they have it) or change to LED's 9005 back again. But I would then need two load resistors harness which apparently not available on v-leds.com http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior....html. Those wires cost $20 + shipping each

There's also this one which I think maybe betterhttp://www.v-leds.com/Exterior....html

[insomnia816]

Ok, just want to give an update on how it went. I changed to 2 led 9005-socket with two DRL harnesses with each have 1 resistors (50w) attached. At first I only have one harness instead of two and the sales person told me that I only need one harness attach to the driver's side. Though I am new to all this and not familiar and still puzzling to get the led to work on my drl. So I went back home with one harness and I plug it up to the led's on driver's side. Wierd thing happens, driver's won't light up, passanger's side did. I then question myself what's going on. Maybe I need another harness and so I went to get another one and plug it to the passenger's side. Great, now that both side won't light up. I then unplug both and test again and passenger's side has dim light on. So I have come to the following conclusions:

When both harness plugged. Both Led's won't show. But when I plug to either side, the other side light up.

I am thinking maybe its the resistor's problem, or maybe I need a different one. Let say maybe around 25w for example.

[philipa_240sx]

Checked the wiring diagram in the FSM. During DRL mode, the voltage polarity actually changes on the drivers side DRL bulb!

Normally, 12V battery power flows through both the passenger the drivers side bulb to ground. On DRL mode, the 'ground' wire for the drivers side bulb becomes 12V+ and current flows through the drivers side bulb, then the passenger side bulb, then to ground.

There is no way you are going to get an LED (which is polarity sensitive) to work by simply connecting up. What you are going to need is a 'diode bridge' (or bridge rectifier) that makes the LED polarity irrelevant. This way it will work in both modes: DRL and high beam. You can google 'diode bridge' for an example of what I am talking about. Many of the major electronics vendors (ie http://www.digikey.ca) can sell you a diode bridge. Here's a sample:

http://search.digikey.com/scri...DI-ND

[philipa_240sx]

Something still doesn't make sense here. If it was a polarity issue then the LED's would not work period in DRL mode.

You need to post a detailed diagram showing your wiring. Than maybe I can sort it out. Otherwise I'm just guessing.

Personally, I would ditch the LED idea and just stick with incandescent/halogen bulbs. Go with a crazy blue tint or something if you want.

[Pescakl1]

Something still doesn't make sense here. If it was a polarity issue then the LED's would not work period in DRL mode.

It is possible if some current "leaks" from other systems (especially in automotive applications). Remember that LEDs don't use a lot of amperage to work, probably few hundreds of mA for these LEDs.

That is what usually happens when you install LEDs in a car, they light up even when they should be off because not every systems use the same ground in a car but some use the same wiring.

You are right about the polarity problem of the LEDs, that is why I want to do a separate array for the DRLs.Using a diode rectifier may work.

Insomnia, I think you are a bit confused between Watt and Ohm: Halogen circuit use 55W bulbs so if you want to be safe, use 50W resistors. But to simulate a bulb, you need to "create" some resistance in the circuit (LEDs barely don't have it so you have the burnt bulb warning): few ohm resistors should do the trick (6 or 8 ohm resistor should be enough).What is the ohm rating of your load resistors? BTW, one should be enough if the ohm rating covers both bulb resistance.

[insomnia816]

Hey philipa and pescak. I have updated with photos taken to shown what I mean. The resistor I got is the 50W 4.7 Ohm 1% as listed on the marker. When I plugged on the Driver's side as shown, the Driver's side won't light up but the Passenger's side did.

This is the harness I am refering toAlthough its for 9006, I managed to trim it down so it can be fit with 9005 socket

This is the resistor attached to the harness, 50W 4.7 Ohm 1%

This is the LED's I am replacing with the high beam halogen 9005

This is what happend when I plug both led direct into OEM's socket, one side has no power, and the other side has little power been drawn to

Plugging the LED with harness

Plugging the harness with Rogue's high beam socket

Start the Engine and this is what I see. The Driver's side not lighting up, but the passenger's side lights up

You can tell the difference in brightness

[philipa_240sx]

I think I have an idea as to what is going on. The VLED 9005 LED module is designed to work with 12VDC. However when the DRL's are operating, the LED lights are powered in series... in effect each LED light is now getting way less than 12V. This is not enough power/voltage to get them both working.

I'm sorry, but without some creative wiring you are never going to get this to work. My best suggestion is to take it to a reputable installer and let them figure it out. Or stick with incandescent (halogen) headlamps.

[bokito]

Checked the wiring diagram in the FSM. During DRL mode, the voltage polarity actually changes on the drivers side DRL bulb!

Normally, 12V battery power flows through both the passenger the drivers side bulb to ground. On DRL mode, the 'ground' wire for the drivers side bulb becomes 12V+ and current flows through the drivers side bulb, then the passenger side bulb, then to ground.

There is no way you are going to get an LED (which is polarity sensitive) to work by simply connecting up. What you are going to need is a 'diode bridge' (or bridge rectifier) that makes the LED polarity irrelevant. This way it will work in both modes: DRL and high beam. You can google 'diode bridge' for an example of what I am talking about. Many of the major electronics vendors (ie http://www.digikey.ca) can sell you a diode bridge. Here's a sample:

http://search.digikey.com/scri...DI-ND

Is the bulb socket only 2 wire? I haven't had chance to check on my wife's rogue. But i know on the FX i went through some trouble getting DTRL to work as well. Once i figure out the voltage reversal delio i was able to get it to work.

Here is the working socket diagram from fx. It may help you.