What is better stillen or jwt pop charger with z tube?

[Tbone84]

I recently bought a 2007 G35X and am looking to mod it. I am debating between a stillen or jwt pop charger with z tube for the intake. I was also looking into getting a motordyne Iso thermal 5/16 space and a KN filter. I know this is a loaded topic, but I am new to moding and don't know too much about cars. Hopefully you guys can give me some advice on what to get cuz I love my G35 and am excited to mod it.

[Infinitiguy19]

Hey man both will let in crappy air into the engine killing your engine faster than a OEM filter. So the choice is yours, I would stick with OEM for engine life.

[G_whizz]

Hey man both will let in crappy air into the engine killing your engine faster than a OEM filter. So the choice is yours, I would stick with OEM for engine life.

That's a matter of opinion. I've had aftermarket filters on ALL my cars and never had a problem.

I recommend the JWT and Ztube combo. Had it on both my G's. You will notice very little of a power gain. It's more the increased sound that makes it all worth it. Go for it, you can't go wrong!

Welcome to NICO Tbone!

[Infinitiguy19]

How many miles have you gone on your cars 300K or 400K miles and above?

Well actually there is a easy test to prove it. Lift the OEM air cleaner away from the air intake box and secure the filter to the upper part of the intake (Which is lifted for the experiment). Once secured rev the engine and listen at the engine noise. Compare with a aftermarket filter of ANY KIND that requires modification or removal of the OEM air box.

I can assure you the after market intake/filter will be louder because more air is allowed in. More air increases the chance of bigger particles getting into the intake and slowly abrading away the engine.

Not trying to be disrespectful just sharing my knowledge thanks to NICO of course.

Nice Avatar!

[biggie]

More air does not necessarily mean bigger particles. Cone filters have much more surface area to bring air in, yet can filter the same as OEM filter.

Between all of my cars that have had aftermarket filters, I easily have 250k miles on the engines and never a problem (between 3-KA24DE, 1-KA24DET, 2-VQ35DE, 1-MR18DE).

[Infinitiguy19]

Can you provide any proof they are better than OEM?

I have this: http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B5VDQiR ... N2I3&hl=en

Plus why would car manufactures go through so much time and money if a simple cone filter does it?

Plus depending on the engine I think the after market and OEM air filters have about the same, but thats based off the G50 (1990-1996) Q45 air filter.

[biggie]

Can you provide any proof they are better than OEM?

I have this: http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B5VDQiR ... N2I3&hl=en

Plus why would car manufactures go through so much time and money if a simple cone filter does it?

Plus depending on the engine I think the after market and OEM air filters have about the same, but thats based off the G50 (1990-1996) Q45 air filter.

Have no clue what that link is supposed to show.

Never said any cone filter was better at filtering air, but should allow more air in vs OEM panel.

Most OEM air intake systems are designed to restrain and muffle the air coming in for a quiet ride/drive. They are not usually designed for maximum performance.

One simple example is when they put the restrained intake tube on the G35 when the Z33 tube would have worked and gives around 5hp increase, but would have been louder.

Another example is the intake system on stock 240sx. You basically are pulling air through a couple pin holes in the dampner under the intake box. REALLY restrictive.

When the intake is set to be this restrictive the need for a large surface area air filter is not there and would cost more to design an intake box that would contain a cone filter. Let's not forget probably 95% of cars (only excluding some exotics/race cars that lose money) are produced to make money a cheap panel filter is way less expensive than a cone from the factory.

[Infinitiguy19]

Okay yet another point: Heat. The OEM setup is better at letting cool air in VS a cone filter which is inside the engine bay. And if you put the cone filter lower to the ground you risk hydolocking your engine when you go through a puddle. Sure there are blow off valves you can buy to prevent water from getting in but its not worth it, Well to me its not. To me "letting more air" in is all marketing. I will admit in a very cold winter you may gain a small amount of horse power but thats it.

The link is supposed to show many documents and references to "cold air intake"/cone filter being bad for engine health. I know its a lot to read but you will be all the better for doing so. I don't have the time to sift through the hundreds of documents on my link but its there.

Can you provide any studies to back up your theory not endorsed by "Cold air intake manufactures"?

[biggie]

The JWT has a heat shield and uses the same 'ram air' duct as the OEM for a G, so same amount of cold air.

There really hasn't been studies of cone filters (apparently one hasn't been warranted). You are the first person to ever warn anyone that a cone filter will kill your engine.

[Infinitiguy19]

Nope there is Q45Tech, Texas oil and Maxnix all in the Q45 section. Thats where I got the info from as well.

[SteveTheTech]

The new cars are not the same as the dinosaurs. end of story.
In the real world on a small percentage of people keep their car running past 100k anymore. The people who do over that that actually take care of them are even smaller. Most people are driving these cars for a few years tops. Lifes too short to be stuck in a boring old car. I personally need a new car every 2 years or so.

Some of the principals are the same since the old Q, the obd1 days.Although I agree with you on the oem filter, the boxes are restrictive for noise reasons the filters are cheaper if they are all the same. The filters are the same in the majority of V6 nissans from 95+ and maybe older but I am not sure. My J has the same filter as an 07 G coupe.
Nissan OE filters are actually oiled, open one and wipe the inside of the bag.

I recently bought a 2007 G35X and am looking to mod it.

Stillen is always a safe bet with Nissans, this is just an established fact at this point.
The Fujita intakes on the x are not too bad. Although you have to use screw clamps on the breather ports.
The Stillen long ram is decent and isn't as susceptible to heat soak to intaking air.

Um... there is something I have to ask where are you are you going to put a spacer on your X? The 07 G35x doesn't have the same intake as the coupe.

PS- Welcome to the group Tbone.

[WDRacing]

The best way to increase power isn't by using a less restrictive air filter, since the actual difference in real world airflow is negligible, it's to draw cold air in from anyplace not under the hood and insulate the piping so it doesn't heat soak. Horse power claims made by manufacturers are for the most part BS IMHO. Anyone can manipulate a dyno run and the circumstances to create the best results for that individual test. But that's not what I consider accurate in the real world.

Like mentioned, removing the stock airbox and installing a cone filter that pulls in hot under hood air actually makes you lose power.

As far as old vs new goes there are things that will always remain the same no matter the year/make/model. Ingesting colder denser air will always make more power. Where the newer cars make their money is with all of the new/better sensors. Like the intake air temp sensor for instance. It see's colder air and allows for a more aggressive timing curve, similar to driving your car in 70* temps vs 100* temps.

Restriction plays a role in HP gains, but not as much as intake air temps.

Just my .02

WD

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Plus why would car manufactures go through so much time and money if a simple cone filter does it?

Never, ever use that logic of "if it were so good, then why don't OEMs use it?". NEVER.

Filter geometry (as well as intake geometry) play a huge role in intake/filter restriction. Try breathing through a coffee straw... now try breathing through one of those gigantic bendy straws... now try breathing through a cardboard paper towel core... yeah, there's a difference.

Also, my Prelude has over 240k on it, and I use K&N filters in it (OE style panel filters), so don't think that a 10 micron dust ball is going to grenade your engine.

Also, Brian has a very valid point. I know a lot of people that swap out their factory intake system for something metal and shiny, but don't forget, plastic is a GREAT insulator... and steel and aluminum are not. If you have the option of getting a re-designed intake system in metal or plastic, and you want to go for all out power, you are better off with the plastic (unless you have a forced induction scenario, then the plastic might not be strong enough to withstand the changes in heat and pressure for extended periods of time).