What is a grounding kit and how does it benefit someone's car

[Guju Rider]

i've read so many different forums and seen so many pages on cardomain.com and i dont quiet understand what a grounding kit is. If you look at it from an eletrcians point of view, it sounds like is something electrical and is good if you have a system and other things that you need to run power to. but i always thought it was something like a lip kit for the car or something. someone please help me on understanding this and i wouldnt be surprised if i was made fun of..thanks everyone..

[toddnos]

Do a search on SBD grounding kits...i found after installing mine that throttle responce was improved.

[pfarmer]

i've read so many different forums and seen so many pages on cardomain.com and i dont quiet understand what a grounding kit is. If you look at it from an eletrcians point of view, it sounds like is something electrical and is good if you have a system and other things that you need to run power to. but i always thought it was something like a lip kit for the car or something. someone please help me on understanding this and i wouldnt be surprised if i was made fun of..thanks everyone..

Basically a set of ground cables installed to various spots on your car with the intent on improving the ground to those parts. The claimed benefits are many such as better shifting, throttle response, and so on. I have seen no proof that this is what actually happens when you do install them. So I am sort of neutral on this part since many claim it does while I have seen none that have provided documented evidence that it does. I believe that it is possible that they could also cause problems with eddy currents and other induced problems. That is 'could' since you really need a good understanding of the entire system.

On the other hand, from what I see, the ground from the battery to chassis is about the most anemic I have seen on any vehicle I have owned. So without looking at all of the circuits involved and their loads I am tempted to at least enhance the main ground as well as the main plus leads since they seem marginal, especially if you do any after market addons such as audio.

Typically with audio for example it is common to run a fused (or breaker) lead from the audio system to the plus side of the battery while leaving the ground side alone. In my opinion the size of the stock grounding lead is undersized with any addons of size such as most audio systems. Your mileage may vary.

Still it would be nice to see documentation such as before and after acceleration, shift points and duration and so on for the claims of most grounding kits.

Perry

[kmckis1029]

+1 my throttle response improved along with some other things...

check out my review of sbd's kit here:

zer...age=2

there are lots of people that dont believe a grounding kit does anything at all for a car performance wise, but those same people ground their audio systems for better sound. how do you think they are getting better sound? They just improved the signal through better grounding. But for some reason a better signal to the ECU and/or any other sensor/device on a car wont improve performance? Especially a G35/G37 that is full of electronics that pass signals to each other...

[BrandAidDesignG35]

1) Japanese cars were designed to run on a different power current than the 12V systems in North America. They never had sufficient grounding points to evenly distribute the ground over the engine.

2) I bought a $70 8 gauge NRG grounding kit on ebay. I noticed immediate results.

3) I bought Sentients grounding kit to upgrade around 8 months later, and let me say, that it's better than the NRG kit, and much better than stock. I like many of you am in tune with my vehicle, I take my G35 to the track now and then, and I know what my car is telling me... And it's saying to keep the grounding kit, it really loves the extra grounding points, and smoother shifting.

4) There are a bunch of reasons why grounding kits can be beneficial, so why knock them before trying?

[pfarmer]

+1 my throttle response improved along with some other things...

check out my review of sbd's kit here:

zer...age=2

there are lots of people that dont believe a grounding kit does anything at all for a car performance wise, but those same people ground their audio systems for better sound. how do you think they are getting better sound? They just improved the signal through better grounding. But for some reason a better signal to the ECU and/or any other sensor/device on a car wont improve performance? Especially a G35/G37 that is full of electronics that pass signals to each other...

Note when you ground an audio system you are not necessarily doing that for improving the signal. You are doing so because you need to complete the current path. Now if the stock ground is too small then you may run into problems with the ground not being able to carry the current needed for that 1000 watt sound system especially on those all important low notes through that 18 sub sitting in the wheel well. Most sound systems automatically get a separate plus lead but often they don't get an enchance ground. The ground in my 08 is about the smallest I have even seen short of my motorcycle or lawn mower. On my Chrysler not getting another ground cable probably isn't an issue since the stock one is substantial. Put that sound system in the Infiniti and I would not be surprised if it starts to affect other systems (as well as not functioning properly itself).

Now if you don't pay attention to the entire system it is possible to induce problems since you may have just added a parallel current path by the addtion of another ground. Is this a problem, maybe, maybe not. That is why some thought other than just putting in a set of grounds needs to be considered. Detail to routing for example of that additional ground could even be important if you are worried about picking up a stray signal by induction. Probably not a big issue for most devices but is one of the many items to be considered. My thinking is that maybe (note maybe) you need to try to duplicate the stock grounding system, that is running the new grounds essentially in a string to the same points the stock system picks up its grounds.

Now could a ground kit do what it claims, well maybe. In the old days for example the headlights would often be an issue. Many would run a ground directly to the grill and radiator supports where the headlights picked up their grounds. So yes I can say that adding that ground improved the function of the headlights.

Now consider the audio system of an old car. Being AM you had a lot of noise in the system especially when running after market plug wires, etc. Many would go the route of adding another power lead, resistors for the plugs, special additions for the distributor, etc. I would add a large coax for the power lead. In this case I would also ground only one end of the coax. If you grounded both ends it would often become nothing but one of many antennae for the noise you were trying to eliminate.

So I am not saying they don't deliver, just that I have seen no proof by documentation. If they are giving you improved acceleration, shift response, 1/4 mile times, whatever the claim is, I just haven't seen the proof. It is not unusual for many to think something that they just paid some big bucks for to provide the benefits the maker claims. If I just paid a grand for a new set of shoes for my car, for the benefit of my wife, I'll definately see some traction improvements. But can I document that?

Perry

[kmckis1029]

i do not dis agree with what you are saying... but it sounds like your experience with grounding is from old american cars and audio systems in general. As you know, cars now a days have so many computers and sensors in them you can barley find an independant shop that can diagnos electrical problems in new generation cars. I employ you, like someone else said, to get a grounding kit for you g35 (that at least tightens up the ECU ground) especially if its an auto transmission, and see the difference for your self.

i have no "placedo effect" or how ever you spell/say it to justify me spending money on a grounding kit. As a matter of fact im an electronics engineer with a degree in computer engineering. A grounding kit was my first Major mod to my G35x cause i knew the benifits it would give and has shown.

[BrandAidDesignG35]

I'm with kmckis1029 on this, They market these products because they work. Sentient created a product that surpassed stillen, and a few others in quality, and attention to details.

Your concerns for the unwanted induction of current is very plausible, but working with such issues can be fairly easy to correct. For example, one point on the kit was causing some issues for a few members, the location of the ground was the issue, so it's definately something to keep in mind, but it's easy to correct.

However, having owned two kits, I can assure you if you installed one you would agree. I took out my NRG 8 gauge kit last summer at the track and instantly noticed a lag in the transmission, and seemingly less power in the lower rpm range. I am confident in the theory of the Grounding kits. After feeling sluggish (with slips to prove), I decided to quickly reinstall the kit for the remainder of the afternoon at the track.

I also agree that perhaps your knowledge is more based on American muscle, which is awesome, great to have that knowledge here on the forums, but my knowledge that I am offering you is that the Japanese cars are not running on the same current.

[pfarmer]

I'm with kmckis1029 on this, They market these products because they work. Sentient created a product that surpassed stillen, and a few others in quality, and attention to details.

Your concerns for the unwanted induction of current is very plausible, but working with such issues can be fairly easy to correct. For example, one point on the kit was causing some issues for a few members, the location of the ground was the issue, so it's definately something to keep in mind, but it's easy to correct.

However, having owned two kits, I can assure you if you installed one you would agree. I took out my NRG 8 gauge kit last summer at the track and instantly noticed a lag in the transmission, and seemingly less power in the lower rpm range. I am confident in the theory of the Grounding kits. After feeling sluggish (with slips to prove), I decided to quickly reinstall the kit for the remainder of the afternoon at the track.

I also agree that perhaps your knowledge is more based on American muscle, which is awesome, great to have that knowledge here on the forums, but my knowledge that I am offering you is that the Japanese cars are not running on the same current.

Actually it has a lot to do with not only American cars, but also from building machines that are very sensitive to grounding techniques - computers. I just haven't seen any documentation in the case of putting these grounds on improvements in the various areas they claim improvements. So assuming you have an auto, can you document that shift times and points are quicker as claimed by many of these kits?

As far as signal grounding goes the preferred method is often single point grounding. Now looking at many of these kits you will not see this scheme even though it is a highly acceptable scheme for signals. Take the stock ground for example, where does it go? Now if you use this as a reference point for signal purposes then the other grounds would all go to this point as their reference. Instead in most kits you see this ground stay in place and an additional reference point somewhere else. Most likely the stock grounding points are still in place, especially since many are simply ties to the chassis thoughout the vehicle. You now have parallel return paths (or supply paths if you consider electron flow instead of current flow), from a practical standpoint using the typical methods of these grounding kits - unavoidable.

Perry

[kmckis1029]

once again you have a valid point... most kits are put right on top of the factory grounding points and add extra ground points... and yes there are now two paths... but dosent current flow through the path of least resistance? while there are parallel paths one will be better... it could be the factory ground... but in most cases the aftermarket grounding provides a better path to ground.

the documentation you are looking for is in any electrical text book, and the numerous people who have ACTUALLY installed a grounding kit.

[EZcheese15]

http://www.tprmag.com/issue/8/8_elec_stab.shtml

[pfarmer]

once again you have a valid point... most kits are put right on top of the factory grounding points and add extra ground points... and yes there are now two paths... but dosent current flow through the path of least resistance? while there are parallel paths one will be better... it could be the factory ground... but in most cases the aftermarket grounding provides a better path to ground.

the documentation you are looking for is in any electrical text book, and the numerous people who have ACTUALLY installed a grounding kit.

The documentation would be in the form of documented evidence of benefits claimed with controls. Proper bonding procedures could be found in various text books (I suggest UGLY'S for a starter primer).

Single point grounding is typically the most accepted for signal purposes which is what is normally used as the reason to add a grounding kit.

However this is actually rarely followed. Some have taken the other direction of just following all of the factory grounds with a grounding cable. This is a very accepted method when you have the possibility of a grounding plane being interupted by parts of it that are bolted together. This avoids most of the issues associated with signal injection while providing the benefits of enhanced current carrying capabilities. Since few will isolate their factory grounds, this may be a valid way to go with anything but a plastic car. Still others are adding other features such as noise suppression and voltage regulation.

Where I would start on a 'G' is replacement of the factory ground to chassis. For stock loads it looks like it is large enough but I would think it would rapidly be limited with any large additional loads such as a large sound system or lighting additions. The plus side seems somewhat better and normally as users add systems they augment the plus side. I have used the factory ground as a reference point and have measured the resistance between it and various grounding points for loads and on my 'G' it comes out very well. I was looking at this for starting issues which I believe was caused by another issue that Steve pointed out as a likely cause (thanks Steve). However as you add mods, etc. it is possible and maybe even likely this could easily change.

It would be interesting for those with grounding kits installed to remove various grounds and provide current measurements under load. For signal purposes bigger is not always better.

If anyone happens to have their front end disassembled then it would also be interesting to see what potential the crankshaft is in regard to block. For reliability this is where some real benefit could be had with targetted grounding. This is in regard to bearing wear. Not uncommon in industrial equipment, most likely very uncommon in non-industrial equipment.

Perry

[4drmadness]

UMM i got all the grounding wires for sale except the one for the transmission and ecu. Im going for a clean look. email me if interested

[kmckis1029]

your article supports why I installed a grounding kit...

"Returning to our plumbing example above: If we would run a separate pipe from the water main to each water faucet in the house, there would be no scalding in the shower because the pressure losses from any faucet would only affect that faucet. Of course the other solution would be to run 3" pipes all through the house to minimize pressure losses. This of course would be much more expensive than running only pipes as necessary. It also only minimizes the shared loss effect, but does not eliminate it, like separate pipes would. The grounding systems on the market are the equivalent to that 3" pipe."

All the grounds on the g35 some way or another go to the chasis... the point of grounding wires is to minimize the loss or resistance to ground/chasis. I know there is no way to get rid of loss, but you can minimize the effect. Its just like using synthetic fluids in your engine... there is still friction/heat but less of friction/heat due to the better oil. Then the effects of less resistance is seen in better response times of signals to the cars computers/signals. In the oils case, a faster rev up cause of the less friction.

A properly installed grounding kit does what it suppose to do... i dont know what else to say on this subject...

[pippen99]

Most if not all the responses about grounding kits have come from owners of 03-05 G35s. Nowhere could I find an installation on a G37 or whether or not a G37 would benefit from a grounding kit. How about it you guys?

[pfarmer]

your article supports why I installed a grounding kit...

"Returning to our plumbing example above: If we would run a separate pipe from the water main to each water faucet in the house, there would be no scalding in the shower because the pressure losses from any faucet would only affect that faucet. Of course the other solution would be to run 3" pipes all through the house to minimize pressure losses. This of course would be much more expensive than running only pipes as necessary. It also only minimizes the shared loss effect, but does not eliminate it, like separate pipes would. The grounding systems on the market are the equivalent to that 3" pipe."

All the grounds on the g35 some way or another go to the chasis... the point of grounding wires is to minimize the loss or resistance to ground/chasis. I know there is no way to get rid of loss, but you can minimize the effect. Its just like using synthetic fluids in your engine... there is still friction/heat but less of friction/heat due to the better oil. Then the effects of less resistance is seen in better response times of signals to the cars computers/signals. In the oils case, a faster rev up cause of the less friction.

A properly installed grounding kit does what it suppose to do... i dont know what else to say on this subject...

Maybe except for the purpose of signals rather than compacity improvement the 3" pipe example has very little validity. Even the direction of current flow is opposite in the water example versus electrical. Consider two things in regard to electron travel in a conductor, the transmission of power versus high frequency signals. One benefits from the cross sectional area, one can suffer from the surface area associated with the cross sectional area.

Again, anyone with a grounding kit installed willing to take current measurements through these additional grounds?

Perry

[pfarmer]

Most if not all the responses about grounding kits have come from owners of 03-05 G35s. Nowhere could I find an installation on a G37 or whether or not a G37 would benefit from a grounding kit. How about it you guys?

GT-R!

http://www.groundingkits.co.uk/

Perry

[pfarmer]

your article supports why I installed a grounding kit...

"Returning to our plumbing example above: If we would run a separate pipe from the water main to each water faucet in the house, there would be no scalding in the shower because the pressure losses from any faucet would only affect that faucet. Of course the other solution would be to run 3" pipes all through the house to minimize pressure losses. This of course would be much more expensive than running only pipes as necessary. It also only minimizes the shared loss effect, but does not eliminate it, like separate pipes would. The grounding systems on the market are the equivalent to that 3" pipe."

All the grounds on the g35 some way or another go to the chasis... the point of grounding wires is to minimize the loss or resistance to ground/chasis. I know there is no way to get rid of loss, but you can minimize the effect. Its just like using synthetic fluids in your engine... there is still friction/heat but less of friction/heat due to the better oil. Then the effects of less resistance is seen in better response times of signals to the cars computers/signals. In the oils case, a faster rev up cause of the less friction.

A properly installed grounding kit does what it suppose to do... i dont know what else to say on this subject...

While the article appears to have some misconceptions in regard to current flow versus electron flow it hits on several of the points I mentioned. First off it hits on where the grounds should be applied and how, which is not how it is often done (note this points to the main reason that cars used to have positive grounds). Second it hits on the points about what you are attempting to provide a ground for, signals or simply additional capacity.

Third did you read page two?

Now maybe those making grounding kits can rethink how they are implementing the concept. For example how many of the kits do you see stack the wires? How many of the kits that don't stack the wires have a remote point of reference? How many of the kits use what is often thought of as the best type of wire for purposes of current capacity versus looks.

Perry

[tollboothwilley]

I hate this debate about whether it helps or not.

Fact of the matter is...all people with an AUTOMATIC transmission that I know have LOVED the grounding kit. It was my favorite upgrade for a very long time.

[pfarmer]

I hate this debate about whether it helps or not.

Fact of the matter is...all people with an AUTOMATIC transmission that I know have LOVED the grounding kit. It was my favorite upgrade for a very long time.

So did you disconnect any of the grounds and measure the current flow through them?

Perry

[toddnos]

I hate this debate about whether it helps or not.

Fact of the matter is...all people with an AUTOMATIC transmission that I know have LOVED the grounding kit. It was my favorite upgrade for a very long time.

im with you TBW.....i spent 80 bux, and sbd himself installed it on my 5at sedan.Im not trying to justify some huge expense like 85 bux...lol at the concept.simply it worked, and i approve of the mod.people will always try and say this or that does not work,,,,if y0u dont want one then dont get one...otherwise make your opinion known, and move along already.....geez

[tollboothwilley]

So did you disconnect any of the grounds and measure the current flow through them?

Perry

Perry...If you are looking for proof then don't worry about it. I didnt need to measure anything to know it made a HUGE difference. That is what I'm saying.

I'm sure you have read the debates on this topic. I'm just saying that WITHOUT A DOUBT this was and is one of the best mods I have ever done.

[kmckis1029]

if you have an auto transmission g35 a grounding kit should be one of, if not the first mod you do...

I have nothing else to say on this topic.

[pfarmer]

Perry...If you are looking for proof then don't worry about it. I didnt need to measure anything to know it made a HUGE difference. That is what I'm saying.

I'm sure you have read the debates on this topic. I'm just saying that WITHOUT A DOUBT this was and is one of the best mods I have ever done.

And it may be for your car. There are a lot of things that could go wrong with a ground. Mods done to your car could change your grounding without you being aware of it. However when I see all these claims I really wonder about many of these kits when I see many of them violate some of the concepts they state they are trying to fix. I have yet to see any evidence that they actually work in most cases, at least as claimed. With as many so called benefits you would think that someone actually can show they are doing what they state with something like a dyno, or some other method that can be documented.

If they are actually improving current flow, then that should be easy to be measured for someone who has a kit installed., however no one seems to want to do that. If it is for improvement of signal transmission then the cabling is probably not the ideal type for that. The method of tying all of the grounds together by stacking works against the idea of minimization of resistance at the cable ends, yet many kits do exactly that. Look at many posts involving engine bays and you will see this. The idea of two points of reference by leaving the stock ground in place works against the commonly accepted practice of single point grounding for signal purposes.

That said, I do feel that the stock ground to the chassis seems a little bit anemic, although an easy one to fix without causing issues.

Even the writes up are often fishy. I mentioned current flow for example. Now for current flow your ground is the return path. However current flow is in the opposite direction of electron flow. In this case the ground is the supply, however this is not how it is presented in the examples it is an important consideration for design purposes for many reasons including corrosion, cable stacking is not the way to go for this reason.

What I believe is occurring with those that have success with grounding kits is that you have a problem with your ground current capability which compromises the power requirement of one or more modules.

This is not the same issue as the signal ground.

If you were to go inside a particular module chances are you will see two sets of grounds internally. The one that is normally connected to the chassis which supplies power to the entire module. Inside at the chip level you will see a second ground that via noise reduction circuitry which may or may not be connected to the chassis ground. This ground is referred to as the IC ground (integrated circuit). It is important that this ground does not change due to interactions between pins on the IC or outside influences. Such a condition is sometimes refered to as ground bounce.

This is the ground that the IC uses for signal processing. Each pin on an IC uses this IC ground as a reference to determine if a particular pin is actually a 1 or a 0 for logic purposes. If you change the reference point of the IC ground you change the reference differential for each pin to the common IC ground. For example an output of logic one could be a differential of <.6 of the high value. In the case of a 5 volt IC that would mean that any differential voltage above 3 volts would equal a logic one. Anything less would equal a logic 0. If you have a reference ground of 2 volts you would never have a logic 1.

If you look at the esm for the Infiniti you will easily see that modules don't simply work in isolation. It is therefore important that their reference grounds are the same. If you do not design a grounding system that ensures this you can induce exactly what you are trying to cure. A stacked design is one example of an issue that can certainly work against this. In such a configuration each lug on the end of a cable would be a point of resistance. The ground on the bottom of the heap closes to the battery ground could be at a lower voltage then the one at the top of the heap.

Now if you look at the one that a user is proposing to sell (the pictures on the recent post about colors) you will see what looks like an attempt to avoid this issue by the use of a grounding ring. In this example none of the cable ends influences the others in the way that a stacked setup does.

If this is the intention instead of just going after a cool looking arraignment then it shows to me that this manufacturer is actually thinking about function to a certain extent.

My issue with this setup would possibly be one of two references, that is the chassis is still connected from what I can see in the pictures and you have the second reference at the engine. Still other designs that try to accomplish similar objectives have a grounding strip that is connected directly to the battery negative with the chassis ground connected to this strip and the other grounds connected to the strip as well. Often times this is done eliminating the need of cable ends at the grounding strip. This may be a better concept since it attempts to have a single reference for a single point grounding system for signal purposes.

If you open your main breaker box in your house you will see a small gauge example of this idea and there is a good reason why it is designed this way. While for different reasons (safety) it demonstrates the minimization of differential grounding. If this was not true then when your cat walks across the boundary between your washer and drying to get at the cat food it may be his final meal.

Perry

[toddnos]

And it may be for your car. There are a lot of things that could go wrong with a ground. Mods done to your car could change your grounding without you being aware of it. However when I see all these claims I really wonder about many of these kits when I see many of them violate some of the concepts they state they are trying to fix. I have yet to see any evidence that they actually work in most cases, at least as claimed. With as many so called benefits you would think that someone actually can show they are doing what they state with something like a dyno, or some other method that can be documented.

If they are actually improving current flow, then that should be easy to be measured for someone who has a kit installed., however no one seems to want to do that. If it is for improvement of signal transmission then the cabling is probably not the ideal type for that. The method of tying all of the grounds together by stacking works against the idea of minimization of resistance at the cable ends, yet many kits do exactly that. Look at many posts involving engine bays and you will see this. The idea of two points of reference by leaving the stock ground in place works against the commonly accepted practice of single point grounding for signal purposes.

That said, I do feel that the stock ground to the chassis seems a little bit anemic, although an easy one to fix without causing issues.

Even the writes up are often fishy. I mentioned current flow for example. Now for current flow your ground is the return path. However current flow is in the opposite direction of electron flow. In this case the ground is the supply, however this is not how it is presented in the examples it is an important consideration for design purposes for many reasons including corrosion, cable stacking is not the way to go for this reason.

What I believe is occurring with those that have success with grounding kits is that you have a problem with your ground current capability which compromises the power requirement of one or more modules.

This is not the same issue as the signal ground.

If you were to go inside a particular module chances are you will see two sets of grounds internally. The one that is normally connected to the chassis which supplies power to the entire module. Inside at the chip level you will see a second ground that via noise reduction circuitry which may or may not be connected to the chassis ground. This ground is referred to as the IC ground (integrated circuit). It is important that this ground does not change due to interactions between pins on the IC or outside influences. Such a condition is sometimes refered to as ground bounce.

This is the ground that the IC uses for signal processing. Each pin on an IC uses this IC ground as a reference to determine if a particular pin is actually a 1 or a 0 for logic purposes. If you change the reference point of the IC ground you change the reference differential for each pin to the common IC ground. For example an output of logic one could be a differential of <.6 of the high value. In the case of a 5 volt IC that would mean that any differential voltage above 3 volts would equal a logic one. Anything less would equal a logic 0. If you have a reference ground of 2 volts you would never have a logic 1.

If you look at the esm for the Infiniti you will easily see that modules don't simply work in isolation. It is therefore important that their reference grounds are the same. If you do not design a grounding system that ensures this you can induce exactly what you are trying to cure. A stacked design is one example of an issue that can certainly work against this. In such a configuration each lug on the end of a cable would be a point of resistance. The ground on the bottom of the heap closes to the battery ground could be at a lower voltage then the one at the top of the heap.

Now if you look at the one that a user is proposing to sell (the pictures on the recent post about colors) you will see what looks like an attempt to avoid this issue by the use of a grounding ring. In this example none of the cable ends influences the others in the way that a stacked setup does.

If this is the intention instead of just going after a cool looking arraignment then it shows to me that this manufacturer is actually thinking about function to a certain extent.

My issue with this setup would possibly be one of two references, that is the chassis is still connected from what I can see in the pictures and you have the second reference at the engine. Still other designs that try to accomplish similar objectives have a grounding strip that is connected directly to the battery negative with the chassis ground connected to this strip and the other grounds connected to the strip as well. Often times this is done eliminating the need of cable ends at the grounding strip. This may be a better concept since it attempts to have a single reference for a single point grounding system for signal purposes.

If you open your main breaker box in your house you will see a small gauge example of this idea and there is a good reason why it is designed this way. While for different reasons (safety) it demonstrates the minimization of differential grounding. If this was not true then when your cat walks across the boundary between your washer and drying to get at the cat food it may be his final meal.

Perry

In the words of the great James Brown:"Talking loud,,,aint saying nothin"

[pfarmer]

In the words of the great James Brown:"Talking loud,,,aint saying nothin"

Simply not understanding something doesn't mean the teacher is speaking loudly. The success of cow magnets in ionization of gasoline proves what people understand. The success of gas spinners for carburetors proves what people understand.

This is just a small part of the science behind proper bonding techniques. Something that Infiniti has a much better understanding of than most of the after marketers.

Still no takers on measuring current flow through their installed grounding kits?

For those that do, consider what is required for loads.

For example for those that think 8 gauge is too small for powering various modules:

Typical Ampacity for Copper 8 gauge for various lengths of wire

3 foot - 85-105 amps9 foot - 65-85 amps15 foot - 50-65 amps21 foot - 35-50 amps

How many of your modules exceed 35 amps?

Perry

[toddnos]

Simply not understanding something doesn't mean the teacher is speaking loudly. The success of cow magnets in ionization of gasoline proves what people understand. The success of gas spinners for carburetors proves what people understand.

This is just a small part of the science behind proper bonding techniques. Something that Infiniti has a much better understanding of than most of the after marketers.

Still no takers on measuring current flow through their installed grounding kits?

For those that do, consider what is required for loads.

For example for those that think 8 gauge is too small for powering various modules:

Typical Ampacity for Copper 8 gauge for various lengths of wire

3 foot - 85-105 amps9 foot - 65-85 amps15 foot - 50-65 amps21 foot - 35-50 amps

How many of your modules exceed 35 amps?

Perry

If your so hell bent on getting measurements and proving us wrong....buy a kit and do so....vivek posted a few posts up, that he is selling his sbd grounding kit...otherwise your just blowing hot wind..

[pfarmer]

If your so hell bent on getting measurements and proving us wrong....buy a kit and do so....vivek posted a few posts up, that he is selling his sbd grounding kit...otherwise your just blowing hot wind..

Why would I waste my money? In case you didn't read my post, I did do resistance readings from most of the grounding points of the major kits to chassis and it demonstrates that their is nothing most likely to be gained.

Many other forums that I have been researching point that the benefit appear to be those who have either disturbed the factory grounds or have loose and/or corroded factory grounds. Many in fact have stated that they simply cleaned up the factory grounds and ended up with many of the same claimed benefits. Now this would be believeable but point to the idea that one should either fix or replace faulty grounds, not simply add them in random fashions that can cause problems.

I ran into one that I found very interesting. It used a ring connector similar to the idea that Sentinientbydesign posted a picture of but the ring connector mounts directly on the negative terminal. From there grounds of different sizes route to the loads. It appears this one has the idea of single point grounding as a primary consideration which it should be for signal considerations. Part of single point grounding considerations is the concept of ground sizing based on loads. It is recognized that one size does not fit all.

This is a typical grounding block type widely used in various industrial control equipment applications which eliminates the need for ends:

http://www.electricmotioncompa...round Blocks

But to be pretty I would go with:

http://www.americanbassusa.com...d=203

Perry

[4drmadness]

yes buy them from me and test it out. Ill sell for super CHEAP

[BrandAidDesignG35]

Holy Hell, I will give you my NRG kit and you can do the testing with your electro magnetron reader device.