What if I Rebuilt a KA...

[hoosier240sx]

What if I rebuilt my Ka24de and restored it to stock specifications with a spec stage one clutch? How much do you think I could sell the motor for and do you think anyone would actually want to buy it? Or do you think it is best to just sell the motor, rebuild kit, and spec stage one clutch together as a package or sperately?

[FlipCoupe]

I would think to sell it separately unless you are having a shop do the rebuild and you can provide receipts. I know i would prefer to have it done myself so I know it was done right, no offence intended.

[hoosier240sx]

No I think the same exact way that's why I thought about justselling it all seperate. No offence taken

[Gabes13]

if the chassis is clean, maybe a couple hundred more than the kbb value.

[alms24sebring]

If it was just the motor I would consider buying it. But I think the package deal is a good option too

[nightsauce]

i paid 900 for an OEM+ rebuilt ka and manual trans. OEM+ being that some things were upgraded.

[hoosier240sx]

Well I'm Selling everything either together for $700 (Rebuild kit, Spec Stage 1 Clutch, Engine and Transmission) Or I'm selling it all seperate $270 for the clutch which is brand new, $310 for the motor rebuild kit which is obviously new, $200 for the motor and transmission. And the chassis it is out of is really clean, car was from texas. My car is also very clean, originally from Georgia.

[OutToWinPAHC]

without specs, and blue printing results I would not pay over 550

[hoosier240sx]

without specs, and blue printing results I would not pay over 550

What do you mean as far as blue prints? Like if I sent the block in an had them Bore, Hone, and hot tank it? Would they provide a blueprint then? I was also going to get the head resurfaced as well. Sorry this would be my first rebuild experience on my own besides helping my friend put his block back together on his SR20

[kingtal0n]

The only reason to rebuild a KA is if you personally intend to do it right and THEN personally intend to drive the car in OEM trim for 50-100k miles or more.

Otherwise, grab a random KA, drop it in, and sell the car. The "rebuilt" aspect does NOT add value to the vehicle- in fact it may lessen the value, since most rebuilds are not done right.

The "best way" to do the job "right" (assuming the block is in good enough shape) is to re-use all OEM parts, replace the bearings utilizing the numbers from the block, use updated timing equipment etc... DO NOT send the block to the machine shop and have work done to it, you will pay hundreds and there is very little chance that anything will actually be done right.

When I need an engine worked over by a machine shop, I check everything with the right tools (dial bore gauge the cylinders for the correct piston/wall clearance and roundness etc...) and to be honest it took several tries and several wasted engine blocks to find a shop that can actually do the job the way it is supposed to be done. The factory specifications are VERY strict and very few machine shops have the experience with these high performance 4-cylinder engines to get clearances correct. When I say high performance, I am simply referring to the design and clearances of the parts used- which to me, designates true high performance- the way the engine is assembled and the clearance of the parts chosen, along with the materials that the parts are made out of and the actual size of the parts when warmed up, the tiny space between them must match the designated performance aspect of the engine- the chosen life for the engine. In an engine designated for drag-strip performance ONLY itmay be necessary to be loose with the clearances, but in an engine that expects to life live on the street, this is not acceptable.

"high performance street" means more exact, more fine attention to detail than "all out drag" when it comes to bearing clearances and piston/wall and ring-gap especially. Doesnt matter if its a 120hp KA engine or a 600hp 2jz-gte, street engine means minimal blow-by minimal compression loss minimal end play minimal oil contamination etc...

[TheRealNap0le0n]

DO NOT send the block to the machine shop and have work done to it, you will pay hundreds and there is very little chance that anything will actually be done right.


The factory specifications are VERY strict and very few machine shops have the experience with these high performance 4-cylinder engines to get clearances correct.

No offense bro but the machine shop I use is the same machine shop all the local tuning houses use IE: CFT, Gato Performance, ETC. I've hung out there more than a few times just shooting the sh*t with them to feel them out.

I know whether i want a stock rebuild or 800+ hp motor they can do it right...

if you wasted "a few blocks" on crap machine work you didnt research your ppl correctly.

[OutToWinPAHC]

The only reason to rebuild a KA is if you personally intend to do it right and THEN personally intend to drive the car in OEM trim for 50-100k miles or more.

Otherwise, grab a random KA, drop it in, and sell the car. The "rebuilt" aspect does NOT add value to the vehicle- in fact it may lessen the value, since most rebuilds are not done right.

The "best way" to do the job "right" (assuming the block is in good enough shape) is to re-use all OEM parts, replace the bearings utilizing the numbers from the block, use updated timing equipment etc... DO NOT send the block to the machine shop and have work done to it, you will pay hundreds and there is very little chance that anything will actually be done right.

When I need an engine worked over by a machine shop, I check everything with the right tools (dial bore gauge the cylinders for the correct piston/wall clearance and roundness etc...) and to be honest it took several tries and several wasted engine blocks to find a shop that can actually do the job the way it is supposed to be done. The factory specifications are VERY strict and very few machine shops have the experience with these high performance 4-cylinder engines to get clearances correct. When I say high performance, I am simply referring to the design and clearances of the parts used- which to me, designates true high performance- the way the engine is assembled and the clearance of the parts chosen, along with the materials that the parts are made out of and the actual size of the parts when warmed up, the tiny space between them must match the designated performance aspect of the engine- the chosen life for the engine. In an engine designated for drag-strip performance ONLY itmay be necessary to be loose with the clearances, but in an engine that expects to life live on the street, this is not acceptable.

"high performance street" means more exact, more fine attention to detail than "all out drag" when it comes to bearing clearances and piston/wall and ring-gap especially. Doesnt matter if its a 120hp KA engine or a 600hp 2jz-gte, street engine means minimal blow-by minimal compression loss minimal end play minimal oil contamination etc...

Meh hit and miss. I prefer having the bottom end assembled by the machine shop after boring, honing, or crank work IE polishing. Motors are forgiving, but proper clearances for oiling, and motion are critical to an engines life and ability to make power. Now as far as blueprinting. its your run out on the motor, your bearing clearances and sizing, micro-polishing specs, ring gaps, torque specs, spring pressures, the specs on the machining, etc, balancing numbers, aline honing reports, yada yada yada. If it me and you say you have a rebuilt or a BUILT motor... I want to see this or as much of it as possible, otherwise it's your word on something you cant see.