my '93 pings under moderate load... its got 186,000 miles on it and I wouldnt be surprised to find my rod bearings have a little 'excessive tolerance'. Instead of spending $3k on an SR20DET i was thinking it might be fun to rebuild the KA.
What would go into a KADE "Rebuild"? New rings, main/rod bearings, slight hone, but what else? What would the Head need? what are some "might as well" internal parts aside from pistons i could toss in for similar money to OE for some gains? Is there a popular bore that pistons are available for should I want to increase displacment? Having 170whp with no turbo lag would be neat for less money than the sr20
what entails a KADE rebuild
Aside from raising compression with pistons, porting and polishing your head will make the next largest difference. As will new camshafts (aftermarket of course!). The early 89 SOHC pistons were 9.1:1 compression, and when installed into a DOHC will make 11.6:1 compression. While the 90 SOHC 8.6:1 pistons will make 11.1:1 compression in a DOHC. Stock bore is 89mm, and you can find SOHC pistons CHEAP (i have a set of 8.6:1's from my 90 if interested), but if you are looking to bore, you may have to order them. Of course, you get get any compression you want with custom forged pistons (like my JE's). But that costs considerably more. Find your budget and what you would like to accomplish.
Basically, take your time!! Clean everything as you dissamble it. Get to know how your engine works. Replace things like the front and rear crank seals, oil pan gasket, and all the gaskets on the intake and plenum. A new oil pump would be a good idea, as well as a new water pump and thermostat, since it will all be apart anyway.
Basically, take your time!! Clean everything as you dissamble it. Get to know how your engine works. Replace things like the front and rear crank seals, oil pan gasket, and all the gaskets on the intake and plenum. A new oil pump would be a good idea, as well as a new water pump and thermostat, since it will all be apart anyway.
I was thinking if i use this block i probly should bore a few hundredths over or find a new block... cuz when i was in there to install a new timing chain kit and head gasket set i felt a small lip inside near the top of each cylinder. Now that i think about it, the sound i hear may be piston slap instead of pre-ignition. not that thats much better, but eh.
o and the thermostat and water pump have been replaced under 15k ago
Thanks for the tips, ill have to see about PnP. funny cuz ive already had the motor out with head off for 2 weeks straight earlier this year.
o and the thermostat and water pump have been replaced under 15k ago
Thanks for the tips, ill have to see about PnP. funny cuz ive already had the motor out with head off for 2 weeks straight earlier this year.
a lip is normal, just take it off with a reamer if that is all that is wrong. Check the tolerances on your oil pump, clean and/or replace the oil screen if it needs replacing...if you are going to buy another block anyway, you might want to consider just buying a whole new engine. I started off with a 190k ka24DE and I've been rebuilding it, and by the time you add up all the time and money I could have just bought an engine with under 60k on it and not had to think about replacing the oil pump and such. just add stuff up: gasket kit, timing chain kit, main and rod bearings, hot tank, hone, and freeze plugs, and you are looking at 140+150+75+40.... I don't know about where you live, but around here a low mileage ka24de would be right around 500.
I would imagine so, at least injectors and a remapped ECU. A SAFC would help. Of course, longer duration cam(s) is the best friend of high compression!
Standard bores of the KA are 89mm (stock), then they go up in .5mm increments. Some machine shops (that i know at least) are stuck on American iron and want only to bore .030" increments. So i had the pistons made at 89.5mm and told him to bore the block to fit them.
Standard bores of the KA are 89mm (stock), then they go up in .5mm increments. Some machine shops (that i know at least) are stuck on American iron and want only to bore .030" increments. So i had the pistons made at 89.5mm and told him to bore the block to fit them.
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djpotential
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