What else to do when replacing rear+front main seals?

[aroche25]

Im going to pull the engine to do the the oil seals as my rear has started to leak slowly. What else should I look for or replace while im doing this?

[A Paratroopers 300zx]

Ummm lots haha. I would do all seals and gaskets that are relatively easy to get to... as well as a 120k service kit. Check all sensors to make sure they are within spec. and replace if necessary. Also, check all rubber coolant and fuel lines to make sure they aren't cracked or leaking. Probably want to look at your clutch and flywheel for excessive wear too.

[marty1mc]

Like ParaTroopers said, 120k kit, plus upper plenum gasket, valve cover seals since they aren't in a 120k kit. Reseal the rear VTC solenoids as well.

[aroche25]

Thanks for the help! Ill be getting to this early next week. Is this a fair price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300ZX-Z3 ... vi-content

[NolimitZ32]

Same price as Z1, courtesy, CZP, etc...

[marty1mc]

Thanks for the help! Ill be getting to this early next week. Is this a fair price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300ZX-Z3 ... vi-content

Yea, as stated above, Z1 sells the same kit for $394 and it's for sure OEM, but it doesn't include the drive belts. You will also need the idler pulleys, about $150 more. So, this is probably about $45 cheaper than a comparable Z1 kit.

[NolimitZ32]

Z1 includes the drive belts http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1680

[marty1mc]

Actually, it doesn't. If you look it says (Optional) and is listed as a $45 upgrade.

[NolimitZ32]

yeah I should really read better i hang my head in shame

[aroche25]

Thanks for the help! Ill be getting to this early next week. Is this a fair price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300ZX-Z3 ... vi-content

Yea, as stated above, Z1 sells the same kit for $394 and it's for sure OEM, but it doesn't include the drive belts. You will also need the idler pulleys, about $150 more. So, this is probably about $45 cheaper than a comparable Z1 kit.

Do I need to get the idler pulleys or are those optional? Sorry Im tight on money since im leaving for school soon.

[marty1mc]

I understand. No, you don't HAVE to get the idler pulleys. But, if the bearings on your tensioner are toast, then those probably won't be far behind. You could wait until you pull it down, and inspect. If you spin the idler and it sounds gritty, then replace them.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I understand. No, you don't HAVE to get the idler pulleys. But, if the bearings on your tensioner are toast, then those probably won't be far behind. You could wait until you pull it down, and inspect. If you spin the idler and it sounds gritty, then replace them.

IMHO, if it hasn't been done in 60K miles, and there are no plans to do them again untill another 60K miles, then they should be done.

[onehitfix]

since youll be dropping the transmission in order to get to the rear main seal i would suggest draining and replacing the transmission fluid and while youre at it i would replace the rear diff fluid also (as both dif and trans take the same weight fluid).

also i would look to see what condition the pilot bushing (its the brass bushing that goes inside the center of the crankshaft so that the drive shaft stays perfectly centered inside the crankshaft, these get lots of wear):

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1893

also check your clutch slave cylinder for ware along with clutch line:

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... cts_id=683
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1466

also check pivot ball and clutch fork for ware or warpage:

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=1721
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... cts_id=675
(theres also now an upgraded clutch fork but u wont need this unless u plan on upgrading to a stronger clutch in which case this is a must!!) otherwise clutch fork bends over time then you get into gear grinding and no one like that sound!!!

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=5119

there really is no end to what you can replace or upgrade but it really all depends on what you notice when you start to dig in however there are thing that normally ware out that should be replaced on a normal maintenance schedule and those are things like gaskets n seals fuel/oil filters all drive belts + timing belt and if your doing a timing belt job i highly recommend upgrading or at least replacing oem idle pulley studs along with idlers (czp has an excellent package for this!):

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... IS300&UID=

[BigTDogg (MA)]

since youll be dropping the transmission in order to get to the rear main seal i would suggest draining and replacing the transmission fluid and while youre at it i would replace the rear diff fluid also (as both dif and trans take the same weight fluid).

Good points, but I only quoted this part. While technically the weights are the same, there are better products for the transmssion avaialble. I've had great luck personally with Redline MT-90 for the transmission, and 75W-90 for the diff. For those with worn out syncronizers, MTL may work better.

The RameyZ upgraded idler studs are a must, IMHO with any timing belt job.