Wrong, the "traction" rods allow for more toe and camber adjustment on slammed cars, they also reduce wheel hop caused by the stock arms binding due to geometry changes( caused by lowering the ride height), adjusting them WILL change your alignment and cause it to need re-aligningLayNLow240 wrote:They shorten it for more traction.
so i crashed my wheel into a curb a few months back an bent up my lower control arm and traction rod(i think..?; the one in the back) and i replaced them with factory parts and my right rear(the damaged area) is toed out and nearly 0 camber with my car being slammed. well i looked under my car and the subframe where the lca bolts is split, kinda hard to explain.. anyway.. are you saying i can adjust toe and camber with just new traction rods??ashibah83 wrote:
Wrong, the "traction" rods allow for more toe and camber adjustment on slammed cars, they also reduce wheel hop caused by the stock arms binding due to geometry changes( caused by lowering the ride height), adjusting them WILL change your alignment and cause it to need re-aligning
To an extent, I would not use it as the sole adjustment, the aftermarket adjustable arm just allows for more adjustment IF you cant get the specs in with toe and cambers links alone.bearback wrote:anyway.. are you saying i can adjust toe and camber with just new traction rods??
There is really no "correct" length, as I said above they allow for more adjustment and reduce wheel hop. If it were mine I would set them as close to stock length as I could and adjust them from there, IF you really need to.keithdigital wrote:Hey ashibah83, that is what I was looking to hear. But the big question, how do you properly set the traction arm length?? I am getting my alignment rechecked on Wednesday and would like to know before I go. Thanks!