What do you do with you CA?

[sjbsuperman1425]

I was sitting here thinking today and wondered, "What do the other CA members on here do with their cars"?

So what do you do with your CA powered vehicle, or what are your plans for it? So list what vehicle your CA powerplant is in and give a brief description of what YOU do!

[float_6969]

CA18DET in an S14
Engine mods are, from the bottom up;
Ross Race Balancer
Stock Crank
JUN 13# flywheel
SPEC Stage3+ clutch
Stock rods
.5mm over CP pistons and rings with 10:1 compression
4 port head with the following mods:
-Un-shrouded valves in combustion chamber (done by me)
-Polished combustion chambers (done by me)
-Radius cut intake valve seat and back cut valves
-4 angle exhaust valve seat and back cut valves
-Port match, and rough polish on intake ports (done by me)
-Bowl reshaping and mirror smooth polish in exhaust ports (done by me)
-sub-manifold port matched to head and intake manifold and polished
Port matched intake manifold
KA24 throttle body with modifications to accept cruise control pulley
1200cc Detchwerks Injectors
NISMO FPR (base fuel pressure set to 50psi)
Walbro 255lph HP
HKS turbo kit, includes the following;
-T4 flanged, divided outlet, external wastegate, cast iron manifold
-HKS external wastegate (modified to clear the steering knuckle), currently running a 5psi spring until I get it tuned. Then it gets a 1 bar spring
-Journal bearing turbo (Garrett), T04E compressor, "O" trim turbine. Kit comes with a .48 A/R single scroll turbine housing, but I swapped it out for a .50 A/R twin scroll housing
Custom made downpipe (didn't come with the kit)
HKS 264's @ 8.8mm lift, IN & Exhaust
HKS adjustable pulleys
SDS EM4-F, V17, tuned by me (street tune, havent' been to dyno yet)
Liquid-to-air Intercooler setup (frozen boost setup)
Working on CAI right now, but it's not done
E-fans on stock radiator

Drivetrain:
Rebuilt transmission with all new bearings, seals, and synchros. Modified from stock with taller 5th gear from a KA.
4.36:1 diff ratio
HLSD

Brakes:
Q45 fronts
Stock rear calipers with Z31 brackets and Altima rotors
Brake booster removed (wouldn't clear with new turbo)
Wilwood brake master
Wilwood brake bias adjuster (in engine bay)
S.S. lines
Speed Bleeders

Wheels and tires:
Z33 V1 Track package wheels
-Front: 18x8 +30 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE070, 225/40/18 (wish I had used 245's, I have the room)
-Rear: 18x8.5 + 33 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE 070, 245/40/18 (wish I had used 265's, I have the room)

Suspension:
NISMO S-tunes
Front and Rear STB's
Megan Racing, hard rubber bushings in the following;
-T/C rod
-FLCA
-all of the rear arms (including the LCA)
-all of the spindle mounts
Energy Suspension poly sub-frame and diff bushings

I beat on it endlessly until it no longer entertains me, which usually takes a while. I have ADD and I get bored quiet easily. Part of the reason I'm a car guy is that fast cars are one of the few things that take me a long time to get bored with. I also like to do some AutoX (nothing really competative, just fun) and am planning on doing some HPDE's this year.

[mdb4879]

I have ADD and I get bored quiet easily.

"Anyway, there is something about engines that calms me down, you know?"

Mine's in a KN13 platform (1987 Pulsar)
Pretty much stock, just a little added boost from a worn out wastegate actuator. I think I've got the only CA that makes more torque than horsepower, lol. Anyways, my motor developed a knock while I was letting a friend drive it. So right now I think the plan is to do a stock rebuild with some ARP hardware and a bigger turbo (plus supporting mods of course). Probably gonna shoot for close to 200whp right now until I get ready for my monster build. But I think that one's gonna be a ways down the road the way the way things have been going lately.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Ryan,
you rear brake setup intrigues me a little since my rear brake pads are about gone..

[float_6969]

I have ADD and I get bored quiet easily.

"Anyway, there is something about engines that calms me down, you know?"

Mine's in a KN13 platform (1987 Pulsar)
Pretty much stock, just a little added boost from a worn out wastegate actuator. I think I've got the only CA that makes more torque than horsepower, lol. Anyways, my motor developed a knock while I was letting a friend drive it. So right now I think the plan is to do a stock rebuild with some ARP hardware and a bigger turbo (plus supporting mods of course). Probably gonna shoot for close to 200whp right now until I get ready for my monster build. But I think that one's gonna be a ways down the road the way the way things have been going lately.

I do know. It's also the reason that I love my job so much. I own a pool and spa service company (no employee's, just me) and I'm constantly in the same sort of state of mind when I'm fixing a pool or spa issue that I am working on my car. It gives me something to focus on and helps me relax.

That sucks about the rod knock, but it sounds like you caught it early enough to prevent damage to the crank. A little unsolicited advice; Clevite 77 bearings. Stay away from the ACL's. IDK, but the CA doesn't like them. Also, you would be surprised in how much clearance you can have on stock pistons and have everything be OK. As long as you're going to stay with stock pistons, you can probably have some minor cylinder wall work done and re-use the stock pistons, but that's something that has to be decided after the engine is apart. For 200whp, I'd also go with an SR T25. Should get you there at about 15psi. If you want to spend a little money and get a new turbo, I would suggest a Garett GT25. It's the stock turbo on my Mazdaspeed Protege and it's CRAZY how fast it spools on this 2L, almost too fast honestly. It would be a great turbo for the CA, and would hit your power goals pretty easily. But that's gonna run you $8-900, so I could understand why that might not be an option.

Ryan,
you rear brake setup intrigues me a little since my rear <a class="vglnk" title="Link added by VigLink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Car-Truck-P ... span>brake </span><span>pads</span></a> are about gone..

Yea, there is a story there. So during the whole HKS turbo kit debacle, I discovered that you can't run a brake booster when you run this kit on a LHD car, there's just no room for it. I discovered this AFTER I had installed the Q45 fronts. So when I converted to manual brakes, I realized that the front-to-rear brake bias on this car with Q45 front's is WAY off. So I went about trying to increase rear braking force. I didn't want to go Z32, but I have done that in the past and didn't want to deal with the headaches associated with the drum brake and the cables. So I found that someone else had discovered that the rear brake caliper bracket from a Z31 (excluding the last couple of years when it went to a vented rotor) will bolt on and the pads fit. The good thing about it is that it's "taller" and moves the caliper out so you can fit a larger diameter rotor. The larger rotor that fits is the Altima rotor. Well sort of any way. It's actually just a little to small, but nobody has found a rotor that fits (and trust me, I've looked). But ultimately, I'm not going to keep it. It's STILL not enough rear brake as my fronts lock up WAY before the rears do (I actually haven't locked up the rears because I didn't want to flat spot my fronts to find out what it would take to lock the rears). I haven't had a chance to drive it since I put the new wheels and tires on though, so I'm hoping the bigger rear tire will help with the bias issue. If not, I'll have to build/design a custom Wilwood setup for the rear.

[Izento]

I was curious as to adjusting brake bias and such. I was thinking of doing the Q45 and altima rotors myself, but I don't want to f*** up the brake bias too much, although I want more clamping force, though I don't care to switch to 5 lug. But, do you think brake bias would be a problem if you still had the brake booster? Cause I know I won't have a problem with my turbo running into it. And so you've figured out that Z31 calipers work with altima rotors in the rear? I've been looking forever for a solution to dual piston calipers for the rears and bigger rotors, but haven't found anything yet.

Oh, btw, the Northwest has quite a big following of drifting, so I use my 180sx for drift (although no one up here has a CA). We use to have a go kart track out here that we could drift on, but that has been taken away and I await the day they give us the go-ahead to rip it up again. A stock CA performs phenomenally on that track. http://www.pacificgp.com/facility-info/ ... k-map.html

[mdb4879]

Lol, you pretty much pinned exactly what my plan is. Pretty much everything in the motor is going to be either OEM Nissan or Mahle/Clevite where applicable. ARP rod bolts just for added assurance. I've seen and heard too many different ways to do the ARP thing, so I think I'm gonna leave it to what the machine shop does. Have the torque them down to ARP's spec and resize the rods. Don't get me wrong, I trust Dee and most others's ways, but I just feel like going with the local know-how on that one.

An SR T25 was also my first pick in turbo's. They're cheap and readily available. Kyle (s13drifter88) made 241whp/227wtq on one tuned with a SAFC, so I'm pretty sure it'll do the job. There have been a couple other cheap choices around, too, so I guess it's just going to be what's available to me at the time. Kyle said he has a friend who might have a 16G with an 8mm T25 exhaust housing. That sounds like it'd be pretty monster. He also pointed out that ISIS just came out with a brand new turbo for like $300 that supposedly will make close to 300hp on an SR. So that might, and I stress MIGHT, be worth a shot. One downside to it, though, is it has a .86 hot side, so spool I can only imagine would be affected.

My friend said he pulled out of my neighborhood and started going hard up a hill just a little ways up the street and it all of a sudden started knocking close to the top. He said he shut it off as soon as he heard it knocking and coasted it back down to his house, so I'm hoping the crank can be polished up and won't need to be cut. But I'll never know until I pull it out. One thing that seems to be a weird recurrence to me is that the bearings that go are at the front of the motor. This one sounds like it closer to the front and I bought a CA16 longblock once that the number one rod let loose. I say weird because the oil pump is at the front, so shouldn't the rear of the motor be the most likely to have oiling issues as tends to be the case with most motors configured like this?

[mdb4879]

A little correction if I may, I think he said he used his stock calipers (so I'm assuming S14 rear calipers) on a Z31 bracket. All over Altima rotors.

[float_6969]

The oil pump is in the front, but the oil actually enters the main galley straight back from the oil filter, in between the 1st and 2nd cylinders.

And yes, it's a stock s14 caliper

[Sideways s12]

Once I get it running it will be drag/drift/all around fun. It's going in my s12 (obviously) I want to make some decent power out it like 400+...

[cbh148]

Drift.

And lots of it.