What could cause my battery light to lite up??

[Prelude Guy]

Hey all,

I am trying to fix this issue. I am having a major bogging issue that I am hoping will be fixed by replacing the alternator. However, I was wondering what else could cause my battery light to come on just in case replacing the alt. doesn't work.

I picked up a used alternator for a low price ($17 shipped to me :supercool ) and I need to change my belts anyway. I hope this does the trick, however, I need to pan ahead just in case this doesn't fix my battery light and bogging issue. One person I spoke to had a VERY similar issue with their car and the issue was resolved when he replaced the alt.

What else coudl cause the light to come on?? Ignition coil??? Distributor?? Anything else??

Thanks,

Andy

[Prelude Guy]

Here is a description of my issue:

Here is a decription of my issue with my car:

"Hey Guys,

I have a question for you. I have a STOCK KA24E. I am having a BAD hesitating issue. My car runs and starts up. It used to idle a little rough...ranging from 700-1300rpms, but now it idles fine. I am the one who used to post about having a major bogging issue if I pushed the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way to full throttle. If I push down less than 15% of full throttle, the car drives fine. However, trying to get on the highway is where the problem occurs. It happens in any gear too.

When I push on the accelerator in neutral more than 15% down, I hear a clicking noise (lsounds similar to when two wires are shorting out)coming from what I THINK is from the injector area. When I do this, the idle bounces from 500rpms to 1200rpms in a rhymic motion and NEVER speeds up past 1200rpms. However, if Ihit the gas full throttle when I hold the idle at 1500rpms, the rpms rise pretty fast...but not as fast as they should. This is when the battery light is not as bright as it is at idle.

I was kind of concerned that I have not thrown ANY codes since troubleshooting the car. I have disconnected the O2 sensor. I checked the ECU and it did not have any CEL codes stored. I have unplugged the MAF and TPS sensor too. No codes. Also, I tried my MAF on m friend's car and it works perfectly fine.

I've changed the O2 sensor, plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, fuel pump, and ground terminal and wire, as well as cleaned the positive terminal post and terminal. I have also put in a fresh tank of 93 octane with injector cleaner. The bogging is still ocurring. My battery light is almost fully lit at idle but it will slowly dim out as I rev the motor. However, as I get raise the rpms higher and higher, the car will start to cut in and out a little and the battery light will start blinking as it starts cutting out. Could this be caused by a bad coil?? Bad distributor?? Bad injector?? Bad alternator??

The car starts up as soon as I crank the starter. I am amazed that it does this, even after I let it sit for about a month. However, it doesn't run right. VERY strange.

The car is running better since I bought it, however, I am trying to get it to run as it should so I can drive it during the Winter.

Let me know what you think."

What do you think guys?

[s13sr20chris]

batt light is on due to insufficient voltage. this could just be a bad alternator or the alternator circuit could be messed up. check the fusible links. there is one that connects the batt to the alternator field(or coil cant remember) to tell the alt to charge. also check the wires on the connector on the alt.

[Prelude Guy]

Thanks, Chris.

So only a bad alternator or bad battery could cause the battery light to come on??

Does my issue with my car sound like it could be related to a bad alternator??

I bought a used alternator for $17 shipped to me. I can't wait until it gets here. I have to change out the belts anyway, so I am hoping I can kill two birds with one stone.

[s13sr20chris]

alt, batt, or circuit. not usually the latter but i have seen a few.

[Prelude Guy]

alt, batt, or circuit. not usually the latter but i have seen a few.

Hey Chris,

I bought a used alternator that came from a 1990-92 Nissan Stanza KA24E. Will it fit my 89 240SX KA24E motor??

I searched a parts seller and noticed that the part numbers are different. Will it work?? The outer case looks the same, just one place where what I believe is the ground wire attaches (the connection point that has a bolt to hold the wire down).

I only paid $17 shipped for it. I will not be too disappointed if it doesn't fit. I hope it does, though.

Let me know, if you know.

Thanks,

Andy

[kyle1911]

swap the pullies cant you?

What you are experencing sounds alot like my problem, i swaped the alternator and its not making any power to the battery.

[Prelude Guy]

Hey Chris,

I bought a used alternator that came from a 1990-92 Nissan Stanza KA24E. Will it fit my 89 240SX KA24E motor??

???

[s13sr20chris]

if it looks the same and bolts up then i would use it. i would avoid swapping cases if at all possible though. give it a shot bro.

[Prelude Guy]

Thanks Chris!!!

I was working on the car yesterday. Is there an easy way to get the alternator out?? I thought it was going to be as simple as my Prelude. Boy was I wrong!!!

I already took out the power steering pump (not all the way...the hoses are still attached). Do I need to take out the fan shroud?? Fan blade?? If so, how??

I took off the tensioner bolt to adjust the alternator belt tension. I felt around where th alternator is and found one bolt. I tried to take it off but it would move only a little. It felt like it was tightening it when I was DEFINITELY loosening it.

I have squeeky belts anyway so I am going to change them too while I am at it.

I want to get this car running. I hope this works.

[s13sr20chris]

i really doubt the fan shroud needs taken out but i say if you need to, do it. maybe even take the whole radiator out for more room. i think it should be pretty easy though.