Hey guys i havent been on here in a while.
but recently ive decided to finish up my build i started who knows how long ago now.
any way i have a ka24de pretty much fully built, and i plan on making 750+hp
right now i have an act 6 puck sprung clutch kit strapped to it, but im not 100% sure it will hold what i wanna make. so i figured why not change it now while i got everything out the car.
so hit me up with your thoughts/ideas

SPEC

do you think the stage 5 will support it?
i dont really want to go into twin disk. the car will be street legal and driven on the street often, not daily but often
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Nissan/240SX/1993/Single

Are you serious about making 750 ft lbs? That much torque is insane.

I'd suggest seeing what the ACT maxes out at while you're building and boosting. I almost guarantee you'll be happy with something like 450ft lbs in the s chassis. The S13 with over 400 ft lbs, as long as it's not a dyno queen, will be an absolute monster on the road. Traction problems to say the least.

IF you get to something silly like 500, then upgrade the clutch. I can't see where you'd need 750 anything unless you were competing in a pro type event.

Not that I wouldn't love top see it...

I plan on making around 750 horse power range, which would leave me around the 500 ball park range for torque.
My set up is going into a 1991 hardbody. right now i have a act 6 puck clutch kit in it, im just not sure how much torque it will hold.

Competition Clutch makes the beloved "white bunny" setup with the option to go with a higher rated clutch. The flywheel is a bigger 250mm IIRC.

talked to r@mon from racelab that had the s13 and decided im going with a cc twin disk

One of the big boy Centerforces or a Twin Disc from Spec or somebody

does that twin disk use the stock size flywheel? I am running an RB flywheel on my KA24DE w/ an act 350z clutch, more surface area then stock and sr flywheel, im not sure what options will hold 750, but my clutch is rated to 580 ft/lbs, i never really looked alot at twin discs, id be interested to know what model and specs are, just to have as a comparison for whats avail, plz post

With an RB flywheel you can run one of the big boy Centerforce clutches for a Z32tt which is a counterweighted pressure plate. Their clamping load actually increases with engine rpm. Faster they spin, the more the counterweights pull outward forcing the plate to clamp harder.

Now with the RB flywheel you also open the option for like an OS Giken super single or twin but for about double the price, probably about the same as like a Cusco or Carbonetic twin disk. They'll hold but they sure hurt when you click that checkout button. With the twin disk you'll also get that chatter that they have, something that may get aggravating if you'll be driving the car on the street.

Now let's consider engagement and plate load. The Centerforce with it's counterweights will have a little lighter pedal and smoother engagement since it's weights allow it to clamp harder and harder with RPM and won't have as heavy a clamp when stationary or say idling at a light or Burger King window also making it easier on your hydraulics. It will also be quieter since it's only a single disk. The twin disk will hold more simply due to it's pressure plate and having 2 disks but since it's clamp load is peak all the time will be heavier on the leg, harsher on engagement and more strenuous on hydraulics and will have that twin disk chatter when engaged.

Just a little info to toss around both ways. For a track car I'd go twin... it'll take the constant beating better and drivability doesn't matter with a race car. If you'll be driving it I'd go with a Centerforce single since it'll make driving the car in town a little more pleasant and smoother. My $.02

http://www.jegs.com/i/Centerforce/183/DF502502/10002/-1 This is the Centerforce
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/OS ... -RB25.html This is a single
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/Ex ... -RB25.html This is another single
http://rawbrokerage.com/SPEC-Twin-Plate ... N23MTR.htm Moving on to twins, brace yourself and hide your wallet
http://rawbrokerage.com/Exedy-Twin-Plat ... M032SD.htm This one hurts
http://rawbrokerage.com/Carbonetic-Twin ... N23210.htm This one hurts more
http://rawbrokerage.com/Carbonetic-Trip ... N23310.htm You'll need physical therapy afterwards

The website states the the multi plate clutches retains the soft pedal.

I'm not sure how soft, I put a set a coilovers on an Evo and aligned it a few years ago when I was at work one day and when I test drove the owner told me it had a Carbonetic twin disk and it was pretty much a leg killing on/off switch. He wasn't kidding cause when I drove it, it was heavy and harsh.

i know the cc they sell for the 240s is 184mm from what it says on the site.
i plan on making 750hp, clutches are rated in torque so i would need something that can hold at least 500ft lbs.
the car will be street driven, not daily but from time to time.
im going to be running a 350z tranny on a ka24de in a hardbody.
i was thinking about running a super single then i just said f*** it why not twin.
but for now its still a toss up i got plenty of time before im going to need it.

I have an Exedy twin SD in my evo8, and it's not much stiffer than the Spec stg2+ in my 240. It's a noisy beech on decel but shifts like butter at 8k rpms. Mine is only rated for about 420wtq though.

Really? My ACT 6 puck sprung is rated for like 451 or some sh*t like that. Ill look online and check though in case I need to correct this post later

Yup they don't hold much more tq in my application but they're fairly easy to drive and shift at high rpms without lockout, they also hold up well to launching at high rpms (6k+ in my case). Mileage has only been about 30k between rebuilds though.

Mine has done well. Between some hard launch's (4k street tires, 5.5k slicks) and about 10k miles my ACT showed little wear when I pulled the motor to rebuild it. I looked good enough I didnt order that Centerforce yet lol

If youre running an RB flywheel then run this clutch.

http://www.frsport.com/ACT-NS3-XTG6-6-P ... 15409.html

ive been thinking about that RB flywheel set up
way cheaper then then any twin disk out there

You can get some biguns for an RB lol

You can get some biguns for an RB lol

yea i just want something that will hold.
i dont think i will make more then 600wtq

If you do then hell you... more power to ya (no pun intended lol)

would anyone recommend using a light weight rb flywheel? or just a regular stock rb flywheel

With a really aggressive clutch it'll be easier to start off from lights and on hills with the stock weight flywheel. The extra weight will carry a little more inertia. It atleast helps drivability in my opinion though others may differ

s13drifter88 wrote:With a really aggressive clutch it'll be easier to start off from lights and on hills with the stock weight flywheel. The extra weight will carry a little more inertia. It atleast helps drivability in my opinion though others may differ

+1 I agree that it makes driveability alot better, if it's going to be a street car. Save the lightweight flywheels for dedicated "track cars"

I'd stick with a stock RB wheel and run the biggest (sprung) ACT or Centerforce you can get for an RB or Z32tt. The Centerforce you'd order for a Z, ACT for RB

s13drifter88 wrote:I'd stick with a stock RB wheel and run the biggest (sprung) ACT or Centerforce you can get for an RB or Z32tt. The Centerforce you'd order for a Z, ACT for RB

Aren't you supposed to run a 350Z clutch for the RB flywheel?? Or is it the same?

Why not run a RB clutch on the RB flywheel?