What clutch kit would you recommend

[MsRae]

Hello,

I'm a noob here but thought I would post a quick question. I own a 1991 Nissan Sentra SE-R with 245,000 miles. I absolutely love this car and would like to see about adding/modding it some but for now here is my dilema: My pilot bearing has decided to finally give out on my 1991 Nissan SE-R. I am going to be tearing it apart this weekend to replace it and of course, while I have it apart I am going to be replacing the throwout bearing, the clutch plate etc. My question is this, what clutch kit would you recommend if I am not going to exactly mod this to be a race car but would like to see about adding turbo and a few other minor mods just to give it a little more.... FUN I can get the general blah run of the mill clutch kit from NAPA for around 175 bucks or I was looking at a Zoom kit for around 300. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Rae

[nametakennow]

What sort of horsepower levels are you looking at?

I'd go with a solid aftermarket brand - ACT, Unorthodox Racing, Spec etc. What type of clutch depends on your answer to the first question.

[ishkabibble]

You want a new throwout bearing, new pressure plate if your original one is bad, and a clutch plate from a 2001 Sentra SE (this is known as the B15 SE clutch upgrade). Get all of these parts from the dealer; they are good up until at least 200 wheel hp.

Only go with an aftermarket clutch if you are positive you are going turbo. Most of the aftermarket clutches for the B13 SE-R are crap and/or grab too hard for the stock motor.

While you are at it, you should install a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and replace the axle seals on the transmission. The flywheel will be trivial since you are already in there - get the 8.8 lb one if you are staying N/A, or the 10.5 lb if you are going turbo. The old axle seals will likely leak if you don't replace them.

If you do want more power in the future, I'd suggest that go you with an SR20VE motor swap rather than turbo. Good luck.

[MsRae]

Thank you both for your replies. I was thinking around 200 whp is about all I would need to get up to. It is already fun at the 190 but a little extra would be nice.

Ishkabibble - are all the 2001 parts going to be compatible with the 91?

Good to get an opinion about the after market kits. There were so many of them and I was pretty skeptical. I hate to get in there, have to take it all apart just to have the new one be a mistake. I will go with the dealer, my only problem with dealers is the $$$.

Fidanza flywheel? Ok - I'll google it and see if I can get one locally.

A swap for the SR20VE huh? hmmmm.... I am sure this engine will probably go in the next couple of years, maybe when it does that will be a good consideration. :

Thank you again for your replies!

Rae

BTW - I have it up - have gotten the drivers side half shaft out, but I am having a little difficulty with the passenger side half-shaft. The dang thing seems stuck, is there a trick? or do I just need to force the dang thing out with a pry bar/screw driver? I did it a while back but I can't remember now....

[nametakennow]

190hp? What mods do you have now? 139 is the stock figure.

Most engine parts for the 01 fit the 91. This excludes intakes.

VEs are cool. Bang-for-your-buck-wise they aren't as nice as a DET, but I'd be willing to bet the NA/high revs would be just as fun.

Not sure about the half-shaft issue, but it seems like a lot of people have that problem, so you might find some help with a search.

[ishkabibble]

Ishkabibble - are all the 2001 parts going to be compatible with the 91?

The 2001 clutch plate fits with no issues. In fact, I think if you order a new clutch plate for your 1991 car at the dealer, you'll get a 2001 clutch anyway. You can use a new 91 throwout bearing a new 91 pressure plate. I'm not sure if there are differences in the 2001 on those two.

You're looking at about $100 for the clutch disk, $100 for the pressure plate, and $30 for the throwout bearing at the dealer.

A swap for the SR20VE huh?

I disagree with nametakennow's opinion about the DET, as the VE is much more reliable, your total cost of ownership will be much lower, you'll have to fiddle with it less, and you should be able to pass emissions without any problems.

BTW - I have it up - have gotten the drivers side half shaft out, but I am having a little difficulty with the passenger side half-shaft. The dang thing seems stuck, is there a trick? or do I just need to force the dang thing out with a pry bar/screw driver? I did it a while back but I can't remember now....

Weird, the passenger axle usually just falls out if it's not the original one.

Did you unbolt the carrier bracket (held on by 3 bolts halfway down the axle)? The axle may be rusted in the bracket.

If you replaced the axle with a cheap rebuild rather than a new Nissan, Raxles, or GSP axle, the splines may have gotten twisted in the differential. You'll have to whack it with a big freakin rubber mallet until it comes out. And then your diff may be hosed.

Modified by ishkabibble at 7:28 PM 6/15/2008
Modified by ishkabibble at 7:29 PM 6/15/2008

[MsRae]

The 2001 clutch plate fits with no issues. In fact, I think if you order a new clutch plate for your 1991 car at the dealer, you'll get a 2001 clutch anyway. You can use a new 91 throwout bearing a new 91 pressure plate. I'm not sure if there are differences in the 2001 on those two.

You're looking at about $100 for the clutch disk, $100 for the pressure plate, and $30 for the throwout bearing at the dealer.

Ok, thank you. I still haven't picked up the parts so that will be my plan on Monday.

Weird, the passenger axle usually just falls out if it's not the original one.

Did you unbolt the carrier bracket (held on by 3 bolts halfway down the axle)? The axle may be rusted in the bracket.

If you replaced the axle with a cheap rebuild rather than a new Nissan, Raxles, or GSP axle, the splines may have gotten twisted in the differential. You'll have to whack it with a big freakin rubber mallet until it comes out. And then your diff may be hosed.

Yes, I did take off the three bolts to the carrier bracket. I was thinking exacly as you said and it should just fall out, it is usually the drivers side that is the trouble maker (especially getting it back in!). I'm also not certain of the brand that is in there so I will just have to work at it and pray for the best (hope hope hope the diff isn't hosed, but I don't think it is).

Thank you TONS for all the info. You have been great help and I am, unfortunately, thinking I might need more help... but lets hope not. :

Oh, and as for the 190 hp - my bad, it is 140 not 190 - it is completely stock still (just bought it about 9 months ago and am currently spending more of my time restomodding a 69 cougar). Hopefully the Nissan will be getting some upgrades soon though.

[nametakennow]

I wasn't arguing that the DET is more reliable (it's not) or cheaper to maintain (definitely not), merely that the initial swap is a bit more expensive (which it generally is unless you score a deal... not a LOT more expensive, though).

I'm a fan of VE swaps in classic SE-Rs. I think it's probably more fun to drive, though I haven't experienced it, sadly.

[MsRae]

Weird, the passenger axle usually just falls out if it's not the original one.

Did you unbolt the carrier bracket (held on by 3 bolts halfway down the axle)? The axle may be rusted in the bracket.

If you replaced the axle with a cheap rebuild rather than a new Nissan, Raxles, or GSP axle, the splines may have gotten twisted in the differential. You'll have to whack it with a big freakin rubber mallet until it comes out. And then your diff may be hosed.

Modified by ishkabibble at 7:28 PM 6/15/2008

Modified by ishkabibble at 7:29 PM 6/15/2008

I just wanted to give a quick update. Got the half shaft out and you were right on the money. It was rusted in the bracket. It finally came out (after much hammering, one broken screwdriver, and alot of cussing). Making for one very slow clutch repair....

Rae

[ishkabibble]

Load the bracket up with anti-seize when you reassemble it.

Everything always takes longer than you expect!

[MsRae]

Just thought I would throw in another update. Got the transmission out (yeah, it is a long project, have limited time at home). It was not the pilot bearing, turns out one of the springs on the clutch disc had come out! Going to replace it all while I am in there anyway. Ordered a Exedy stage I clutch kit.

Now I have one more question - Since the transmission is out, and I am unfortunate enough to have the transmission that is notorious for the 5th gear pop-out (which yes, it does do that). I was thinking about fixing the syncrhos. My hesitation is, I have never been into the tranmission that deep before. Do you think a novice could do this or should I just bring the tranmission to a shop and perhaps have them do it? It appears rather straight forward but I am still a little nervous. What do you think?

Hey Ishkabibble - do you hang out on a Utah forum for Nissans? There is someone on one of the other forums I visit with the same avitar. I would PM you but it appears that is not possible on this forum.

[ishkabibble]

Good, you got one of the better aftermarket clutches.

I've heard that the 5th gear popout fix is pretty straightforward. Now is the time to do it. You could always take it to a shop if you get stuck. A good alternative is buying a used transmission that's already been fixed.

You can consider doing a Quaife LSD while you're in there. It's a significant investment, but the stock VLSD is probably gone with that many miles on it.

Nope, I'm not from UT...

[nametakennow]

I'd go for a used transmission to replaced the one with the bad 5th gear. Your best option is the LSD trans from a 2000-2001 Sentra SE with the performance package, as it has no 5th gear popout issues and is stronger than the B13/14 ones. The 99-01 G20 Touring has the same trans. If you don't care about the extra strength you can opt for an G20T or SE-R transmission 1995+.

[MsRae]

I'd go for a used transmission to replaced the one with the bad 5th gear. Your best option is the LSD trans from a 2000-2001 Sentra SE with the performance package, as it has no 5th gear popout issues and is stronger than the B13/14 ones. The 99-01 G20 Touring has the same trans. If you don't care about the extra strength you can opt for an G20T or SE-R transmission 1995+.

Sounds like a good plan. Does the Sentra SE (I am assuming this is the same - B15) just bolt stright up or will I need to do some modifications? And will the clutch kit that I just purchased for the B13 work with the updated transmission? Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but I've only fixed things, never ventured into the swap thing.

I did a search but came up empty handed except for one small thread about a P11 swap that seemed a little complicated when it came to some of the hook ups and the vent tube. I also did a search for used transmissions and the prices that I found were $700 and up (a little more than I was hoping to spend right now, since the rebuild kit is only 300) If you have any places that you would suggest to try for a used transmission, I would be grateful.

Thanks!

[nametakennow]

The SE's trans will bolt up just fine. The clutches are also directly swappable.

Aside from a junkyard I don't know where else you could get a transmission cheaply. Try Google, you may find a junkyard network online that runs cheaper than a local one.

If the rebuild kit is that much cheaper you may be better off just doing the rebuild, assuming that the rebuild means you won't get 5th gear pop-out again for the life of the transmission. I don't think a bit if extra transmission strength is worth the extra cost at that rate.

[MsRae]

The SE's trans will bolt up just fine. The clutches are also directly swappable.

Aside from a junkyard I don't know where else you could get a transmission cheaply. Try Google, you may find a junkyard network online that runs cheaper than a local one.

If the rebuild kit is that much cheaper you may be better off just doing the rebuild, assuming that the rebuild means you won't get 5th gear pop-out again for the life of the transmission. I don't think a bit if extra transmission strength is worth the extra cost at that rate.

Thank you so much. You and ishkabibble have been a tremendous help! I don't know how to thank you enough.

The fifth gear fix seems to be a permenant one - apparently they originally designed the gear too shallow and after a while it just didn't have enough grab. This kit allows for a deeper, better connection between the gears so it should not recur after this "fix". I will talk with my local transmission person today and see what he has or if he has a line on used transmisssions for less.

[nametakennow]

Sounds good! Feel free to drop in anytime with any more questions or just to post about whatever.

[ishkabibble]

You can find SR20 LSD trannies for sale in the classified sections of various internet forums. I've seen everything from original SE-R transmissions to brand new B15 and SR16VE transmissions.

[MsRae]

Ok - I am going to beg of your expert advice yet again.

I priced out a used transmission from the local transmission shop I have used. For a used transmission from a 2000 Nissan Sentra SE it was $1,500.00!! I have not had luck finding used ones on the forums. For now I am going to rebuild unless someone chimes in that knows where a used transmission for under 400 might be.

The biggest question I have at the moment is this: The Fidanza flywheel is pricing out ranging from just over $300 to over $400. To turn the flywheel would be significantly less. What are the advantages of getting the new performance aluminum flywheel over turning the one I have?

Thanks again!

Rae

[nametakennow]

The Fidanza is significantly lighter than your OEM flywheel. This means your transmission gains and loses revs more quickly (i.e. is more responsive to throttle inputs) and puts more of the engine's power on the ground. So rather than having the engine make more power, it makes more efficient use of the power already there, and, therefore, has more effect as you add power later on, too.

I know Fidanzas are about 8lbs, I'm not sure what the stock flywheel weighs.

That transmission price is ridiculous, stick with the rebuild.

[ishkabibble]

I priced out a used transmission from the local transmission shop I have used. For a used transmission from a 2000 Nissan Sentra SE it was $1,500.00!!

Yep, they are pricey. The cheapest I've seen one go for via the normal avenues is $650.

I have not had luck finding used ones on the forums. For now I am going to rebuild unless someone chimes in that knows where a used transmission for under 400 might be.

I see them all of the time on the forums I frequent, for $150 to $400. They sell pretty quickly, though.

The biggest question I have at the moment is this: The Fidanza flywheel is pricing out ranging from just over $300 to over $400. To turn the flywheel would be significantly less. What are the advantages of getting the new performance aluminum flywheel over turning the one I have?

You will gain and lose revs much faster, and the friction surface of the flywheel is replaceable. It makes your car 10lbs lighter, too.

Stock flywheel is ~18lbs IIRC.