What can I do with a 90 240sx?

Post by **GuSpeed** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

What suggestion would you all suggest me on doing to my car? I want it to be fast. It handles nice as it is but not fast enough. Its the SOHC could it be turbo? Would it be cheaper to save and get SR20DET or rebuild stock motor and nos? or Turbo?

Post by **[s3]** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

If you're rich, then shoehorn a RB25/26 in it. If you're semi-rich get a SR swap with upgraded internals/turbo.

If you're poor like the general population, do basics like I/H/E NOS etc

Post by **GuSpeed** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

does i/h/e make that much of different over stock? What about suspension?

Post by **lok** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

GuSpeed wrote:does i/h/e make that much of different over stock? What about suspension?

Not really, IMO. I bet that you have over 1xx,xxx on the odo, so if the car is running strong I would leave engine alone for awhile.

I am also guessing that the suspension is gone. My was on my 90. Start with basic maintenence, oil, air filter, brakes, replace struts or get aftermarket.

Get you car safe before you start adding the power.

Post by **Structure240sx** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

i/h/e do liven up the car a bit i think. of course now i have 8psi and i dont think its that fast. get a compression test on ur motor and if its strong turbo it. its more than the bolt ons but u get so much more and more potential

Post by **GuSpeed** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

lok, I was just thinking of what you were saying. It does make sense. My car has over 100,000 maybe near 200,000. On the car odometer it says 111,400 but on carfax it says 176,000 in 2002. So I think it has maybe over 200,000 and someone turn back the odometer. What suspension setup as in springs and shocks would be the best for its price? KYB AGX with pro kit springs or the TEIN basic for 799.00 which are like 100 or 200 more? Please advise me the right path. Thank you!

Post by **Zdawg** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

I've looked around, what does the H in i/h/e stand for. Im debainting on buying a 90 240 for a winter car, since my conquest is too powerful for snow here in RI. But what Does the H stand for?

Post by **Smurf6x6** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

header

Post by **Kavkazia** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

I/H/E-Intake/Header/Exhaust.

I just got my 89 240sx also, and Im thinking about playing around with it, it has around 140k miles on it but engine feels strong, and has no problems, Im going to do basic maintainces and Im going to start modifing, I already removed a/c belt, p/s belt, removed that AIV junk, installed intake, will be putting straight pipe exhaust, and Im thinking about getting smaller pulley.

Does anybody have any dynos of KA24E with i/h/e or removed belts?

Post by **PapaSmurf2k3** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

Zdawg- im over here in wakefield, RI, (5 minutes away) and beleive me, the 240 is no winter car for around here. spare yourself the trouble and buy some POS toyota fwd.

Post by **PapaSmurf2k3** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

P.S.- sorry for the thread jack, but in my opinion, the only way to make the 240 fast is forced induction (turbo). have fun trying to pay for it.

Post by **Philsnotfalling** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

I just bought a 90 240sx hatchback and I'm in the process of putting a ka24de with some bolt-ons i/h/e, centerforce d/f clutch, ngk plug wires (came with the engine from the junkyard), iridium plugs, nismo motor mounts, and replacing the seals (fel-pro's conversion kit) and normal stuff that goes wrong, belts, thermo, timing chains, pcv, o2 sensor and so on. I have about 2300 invested so far on everything (Car and parts), and its not even running as of yet. I'm converting the sohc automatic transmission car to a dohc 5-spd.

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

Start off with a clean slate.

- Plugs (NGK's ONLY, verify gap, adjust it only once) - Wires - Distributer Cap / Rotor- Fuel Filter (Get the 90-96 300Z fuel filter)- Check the Air Filter- Oil Change (10w40 Synthetic works good on KA24E's) - Oil Filter (OEM filters work best, Fram filters suck)- Clean MAF w/ Brake Cleaner (Carb cleaner leaves deposits)- Clean Throttle Body w/ Carb Cleaner- Check the condition of your belts and hoses (Belts for frays/cracking, hoses should still be firm) - Front Main Seal / Rear Main Seal (Look for oil spray around front crank pulley and oil leaking from the transmission/engine area) - Power Steering (Leaks on most 240s)

Suspension Components to check: - Tension Rod Bushings (large bushings found on the forward most suspension arm in the front, if leaking replace them with new tension rods or polyurethane bushings)- Alignment (if your tension rods are blown, so is your caster, and more than likely your toe and camber as well; If your changing out the suspension, get a lifetime alignment)- Strut Mounts (typically they are ragged out on most 240s that are that high milage) - Struts / Shocks / Springs

Get ahold of a FSM, the Chilton's is decent but the factory one is superior. It helps to have the manual.

Hope that helps some.

Post by **BomexS13** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

Nismo_Freak wrote:- Oil Change (10w40 Synthetic works good on KA24E's)

I just changed my oil today with 10w30. Did I get the wrong oil? I've ran it around 10miles or so, haven't any problems with it.

Whats the diff. between 10w40 and 10w30. Which grade oil is better for my KA24DE?

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

10w30 is the OEM specified oil

10w40 is better for a hard driven n/a or VTEC engine

15w50 is better for a rotary or turbocharged engine

Right now the ambient temps are cool so a 10w30 is fine, switch up to a 10w40 in the summer.

The ratings are based on the oils viscosity, which long story short mainly deals with it's thickness, which translates further into operational heat ranges, etc.

A 10w40 high grade synthetic is ideal for the KA24DE

Post by **BomexS13** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

Nismo_Freak wrote:10w30 is the OEM specified oil

10w40 is better for a hard driven n/a or VTEC engine

15w50 is better for a rotary or turbocharged engine

Right now the ambient temps are cool so a 10w30 is fine, switch up to a 10w40 in the summer.

The ratings are based on the oils viscosity, which long story short mainly deals with it's thickness, which translates further into operational heat ranges, etc.

A 10w40 high grade synthetic is ideal for the KA24DE

Thanks for the reply,

Also Im having a problem figuring out my engine oil levels. I drained my oil yesterday for roughly an hour. Took out my deep stick, wiped it, put back in, take it out again and that **** tells me the my oil level is "Hi". I did it for several times, and then left it for 30mins and did it again, its the same thing.

Post by **bcbs13det** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

i just bought a 1990 240sx back in july and just today i sent the check off for my new engine, sr20det. i cant wait for it to get here im gonna make this engine rock.

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 9:06 pm

BomexS13 wrote:Thanks for the reply,

Also Im having a problem figuring out my engine oil levels. I drained my oil yesterday for roughly an hour. Took out my deep stick, wiped it, put back in, take it out again and that **** tells me the my oil level is "Hi". I did it for several times, and then left it for 30mins and did it again, its the same thing.

Drain it out (try to make the front of the car higher on the stands).

Add 4 qts. of oil and you should be good.

To check the oil properly you should run the engine to operational temp (obviously with oil in it) and then pull the stick, wipe it, put it back in, pull it, check it, wipe it, put it back in, pull it out and re-verify.

The difference from low to hi is 1 qt. IIRC.

What can I do with a 90 240sx?

What can I do with a 90 240sx?

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