What an “exhausting” day today

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98_Q45
Posts: 599
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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So in effort to try and clear o2 after cat code and since I already brought the new sensors for a decent price: I decided to take it to my local shop to crack them loose, and then take it home and do the rest myself since I had to redo the wiring also.

Well drivers side moves okay, but passenger side ends up being seized and practically welded into the pipe. Since it was a small shop, I was able to be present. First it wouldn’t budge even with a breaker bar, then they had to cut it. Then it broke off. So they had to torch it. Then try to chisel it. f*** just wouldn’t move. Got more and more mangled up. They ended up having to get a new hole drilled and slotted in the pipe. Old sensor only partially came out. Almost lost the heat shield in the process. Looks kinda botched but, nothing that can be seen unless directly under the car lol.

Stuff like this is why, I understand why sometimes going to a muffler shop and being told: “You need to replace both lines, that’ll be $1,249.98 lol

Sometimes I feel when I go to shops, it’s always a headache lol. But generally, if I can’t do it at home and have to take it to a shop, then I know it’s going to be something hard to do.

Makes me wonder about my rear suspension link bolts, if they’ll come out easy or cause hell. It doesn’t help I live in the (lower) Midwest and although they don’t have as much use of salt, I’ve seen areas where rust appear under my vehicle in the last couple years where it wasn’t…when I brought it in Arizona practically rust free. Because of that, I’m definitely cutting down on winter weather driving. I have a GM vehicle and the underside is so rusted, I’ve already had a brake line Spring a leak, and rear control arms the last mechanic who looked at it won’t touch it.

2024 has pushed all 90s cars into antique category lol.


98_Q45
Posts: 599
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

Post

Just an update to this: new sensors on, all wired up correctly. However, seems the sensor heater code will remain. I’ve replaced the fuse, to no avail. I think like someone said in another thread, it’s probably something with the communication to the ECU is gone. Being that it came with previously spliced wiring, it’s no telling what might have occurred

Not really worried about it though, I don’t reside in an emissions state anyway. But at least I know the sensor is functional and able to operate. The heater itself probably has no major purpose for the engine, which is running beautifully now since ruling out the main issue. No complaints lol.


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