Well guys i was up and running, now im rebuilding

[yourmomsrps13]

Yep i had her all together and running greateven finished breaking the clutch in, just in time to cause a horrid rod knock. Probly can blame it all on me though, not the brightest idea to do donuts and some drifts without a baffled oil pan but that cant be the cause. ill tear her down this week sometime and diagnous what caused it and rebuild from there.

So i beg of you CA madmen to give me pointers and ideas to rebuild her back to better then ever so i wont have to shed another tear on her. i mainly drift and daily drive so i plan to baffle and add oil capacity to the pan, other then that i guess blue print the crank and maybe the rods new bearings and possibly ARP studs, im hoping i wont have to pull the head off as my headgasket is fine.can you guys give me some places to get the parts im gonna need, i need to get this done ASAP its my only car.thanks for all the help in advance.DK

[originalsin]

ehh idk man, i wouldent say it was u, did u have an oil psi gauge hooked up? id def get one after the rebuild, that way you can shut it down b4 it starts getting bad

[yourmomsrps13]

ehh idk man, i wouldent say it was u, did u have an oil psi gauge hooked up? id def get one after the rebuild, that way you can shut it down b4 it starts getting bad

i didnt have one but im buying one now, thanks for the heads up.

[roe_wedge]

yeah i had one for my KA it really helped

[float_6969]

Are you making reference to the stock oil pan? If so, I don't think that would cause it. I've done countless drifts and dougnut and whatever else you can think of with the stock oil pan and never had any problems whatsoever. Remember, this isn't an SR.

Was it the stock oil pump? If so you might consider replacing it.

Oil pressure gauge will be a big help.

I'm using clevite bearings for the last 2K miles with 4 autocrosses on them, and countless drag races, and a few top speed (130mph+) runs w/o any problems.

When you've got it apart, make sure and double check all of the clearances as per the FSM.

[yourmomsrps13]

my oil pan was a bit dented, might have been part of the problem, other then that maybe the running rich washed the cylinders and got gas in my oil, im pulling the motor friday and ill check everything then.I hear good things about copper babbit backed bearings from federal mogul, heard there better then the OEM aluminum ones, so im gonna try and get them.Im looking for a crank and hoping i dont need to replace the rod, where can i get a crank?also im gonna leave more clearance on the #3 & #4 rod bearings for more oil but still in spec.New oil pump is def. a part im gonna buyOil pressure gauge is another purchaseanyone know if ARP make rod and main bolts/studs?

im not looking to handle crazy HP i just want a reliable long lasting ca that i can enjoy without worrying.im looking to do this all as soon as possible so any help of where i can get these parts will help alot ....thanks

[sideways danny]

if you want it reliable and long lasting then do it once FULLY and properly, you can't do it properly without taking the head off. the rods will need checking for oval and need to be removed for this. It's not that much trouble to pull it apart totally but a lot of hastle if it's not right when you do half the job

I'm currently building 5 CAs, 4 for customers 1 for myself. all of them have been very thoroughly cleaned, I can't express strongly enough the importance of cleaning all the oil galleries and breathers on the CA block. A new oil pump is a must, they suffer badly from swarf damage after a big end failure

[float_6969]

I couldn't agree more.

[yourmomsrps13]

if you want it reliable and long lasting then do it once FULLY and properly, you can't do it properly without taking the head off. the rods will need checking for oval and need to be removed for this. It's not that much trouble to pull it apart totally but a lot of hastle if it's not right when you do half the job

I'm currently building 5 CAs, 4 for customers 1 for myself. all of them have been very thoroughly cleaned, I can't express strongly enough the importance of cleaning all the oil galleries and breathers on the CA block. A new oil pump is a must, they suffer badly from swarf damage after a big end failure

dont take this the wrong way but.....I never said i wasn't pulling the head off, how else em i gonna get the pistons and rods out?

I know how to rebuild motors(been through hot rod U in UTI lol) guess i forgot to mention that. I already talked to my local machine shop that builds race engines and is also very reputable.288$ to line hone, do the crank and also blue print and balance, and hone the rods, said they can even get the federal mogul sealed power bearings.but the more i think about it the more money im gonna have to spend, head gasket, timing belt, oil pump, head studs.etc

but my question/post was asking where can i find/buy these parts?and how about getting a good crank? good idea? if so from where??

[zero_gripS13]

try nissan... cant u use the ca18de crank.. its the same isnt it..also talk to some machine shops they might be able to get one

[yourmomsrps13]

try nissan... cant u use the ca18de crank.. its the same isnt it..also talk to some machine shops they might be able to get one

i tried nissan, they want 720$ for the CA18DE crank(which i dont know will work cause its FWD) so thats out of my price range.The machine shop cant get jdm cranks.still searching

[capwred]

whats wrong with your crank? but im going to be doing the same next month.im taking my ca out and going from buttom to top on it.im thinking about even going up to 84mm pistons.that should give me some more torgue dont you think.

[tyrannix]

$288 for that work isnt a bad price

i paid around $700 for cylinder honing, and a full polish and balance of the rotating assembly (that included labor for miking *everything* and making sure it was all in spec ... the only thing that wasnt was the cylinder wall clearence, it was about .010 over. (a little thicker oil should handle that) also included new hasting rings and clevite 77 bearings all around

machine work, esp engine work is really you get what you pay for type stuff

[float_6969]

Yep i had her all together and running greateven finished breaking the clutch in, just in time to cause a horrid rod knock. Probly can blame it all on me though, not the brightest idea to do donuts and some drifts without a baffled oil pan but that cant be the cause. ill tear her down this week sometime and diagnous what caused it and rebuild from there.

So i beg of you CA madmen to give me pointers and ideas to rebuild her back to better then ever so i wont have to shed another tear on her. i mainly drift and daily drive so i plan to baffle and add oil capacity to the pan, other then that i guess blue print the crank and maybe the rods new bearings and possibly ARP studs, im hoping i wont have to pull the head off as my headgasket is fine.can you guys give me some places to get the parts im gonna need, i need to get this done ASAP its my only car.thanks for all the help in advance.DK

WTF?

[yourmomsrps13]

WTF?

i wont have to pull the head if my rod is still round and in spec, im gonna remove the crank and mic both after thursday i can pull the motor and oil pan and check it all out. i drained my oil and didnt find any metal, i cought the knock real quick and shut it down, so i possibly saved the rod, there for i wouldnt need to pull the pistons. but i have bad luck so im planning for the worst

$288 for that work isnt a bad price

i paid around $700 for cylinder honing, and a full polish and balance of the rotating assembly (that included labor for miking *everything* and making sure it was all in spec

288$ is just for the machining, im doing everything else myself

[sideways danny]

I wouldn't even consider not taking the head off personally. when you have the head off get the valves checked carefully, there was a batch of bad inlet valves around '92 that suffer from recession very badly.

If you really need a new crank (I'd say a regrind would be ok) Topline do a crank kit which includes bearings for very reasonable money

[yourmomsrps13]

I wouldn't even consider not taking the head off personally. when you have the head off get the valves checked carefully, there was a batch of bad inlet valves around '92 that suffer from recession very badly.

If you really need a new crank (I'd say a regrind would be ok) Topline do a crank kit which includes bearings for very reasonable money

thanks ill check em out, 92? i thought the CA18det was from 89-90?

[sideways danny]

we had the CA in the UK upto '94

[float_6969]

He's running a JDM motor. 89-90.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I assumed that when you said you were going to mic the rods, you were going to do the big and and the small end, which would be impossible w/o removing the pistions, which would be very hard w/o removing the head.

[yourmomsrps13]

ah

He's running a JDM motor. 89-90.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I assumed that when you said you were going to mic the rods, you were going to do the big and and the small end, which would be impossible w/o removing the pistions, which would be very hard w/o removing the head.

yes, this is very true. i plan on checking the big ends first because this is my daily driver so im trying to do the least amount of work that i can, and like i said earlier i believe i only spun a rod bearing and shut it down immediately

[sideways danny]

if you've spun a bearing you'll 99% need a new rod

[yourmomsrps13]

yep 100% sure i spun # 2 rod to crank bearing, slight discoloring on the rod cap and some wear on the crank journal, im gonna mic it when i get a chance check the rodand cap for out of round and check the crank journal.Anyone got a short block or long block for sale?

[sideways danny]

grind the crank if it needs it (it will) and I can probably sort you out a rod for not a lot of cash if you can't find one over there (I have a box of them)