weird problem- no top end power at all

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I recently removed my AIV on my 91, following the directions in the thread. All was done correctly, I have no vacuume leaks. After removal, I noticed that the car had barely any power after about 3000 rpm. in first gear it struggles to get to 6000 rpm, it takes about 3x as long to get there as it takes the car to get from 1000- 3000. low end power seems to be the same. the fuel filter is brand new, new K&N filter, new TPS, cleaned MAFs, re-timed it, running 93 octane, new clutch, new catalytic converter, fresh mobile 1 5w30. I cant immagine it could be the AIV, because ive had it disconnected for about 6 months now, and only recently did i remove it completely. besides, it doesnt seem like that would be able to control my top end power. Any thoughts? thanks.

[p00t]

did you adjust the tps properly when you installed it? ie. does it output the proper max voltage at WOT. you will need a multimeter for this.

i dont know how the AIV could effect your top end like that... but if it happened right after you removed it completely it has to be something related to it i guess. if your sure you plugged up al the holes maybe try plugging the solenoid back in? ECU misses it i guess?

maybe you bumped the MAS wire or intake when you did it? if all else fails try leaving the battery unplugged for a while and/or reset the ECU

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I already tried the ecu reset, and the solenoid replug. The TPS worked fine up until now (its been in there for about a month and a half), although i will check it again. If all vaccume wasnt plugged, I would think some vaccume accessories wouldnt work either (power brakes), or just not work as well, but the only thing that has changed is my top end.

[AelSic]

Did you unplug the tps when you re-timed it?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I myself didnt re-time the car, but the re-timing was only attempted after the problem was discovered. i also have a new O2 sensor.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I discovered some new developments today, it seems like when i hit the clutch and go into neutral, the RPMs dont drop, they hover around 1-2 grand for a couple seconds, and then fall down to normal, sometimes falling to slightly above normal RPMs (around 1000). Also, while waiting in line to get gas, it developed a strange idle problem, it would shudder, drop down to near 0 rpms, then save itself and go back up to about 750 rpms. is there some valve or sensor that could possibly be causing all this?

[Calvin]

First rule out a dying alternator. If your car is running entirely on the battery, your spark will be weak, car will bog -- especially at high rpms, idle will be high because ECU senses low battery voltage and tries to charge it. Car will leave you stranded in a day or so.

Does the car run ok before it warms up? Maybe sticking air regulator then.

If its not that, it could be anything. Maybe the secondary butterfly (SCV) is sticking? Vacuum or electrical problems could affect the SCV solenoid, or a million other things.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah i have a new alternator, replaced in march. sorry i didnt list it, i cant remember all the crap ive replaced on this car. i guess what ill do is hope to god that i still have all my aiv parts, and try to put that back together, and if the problem is still there, take it to nissan or something. having no power blows nuts.

[drift-sx]

before my MAS went it did stuff like that it was replaced, aswell as getting better grounds. it fixed the problem well

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah, it would be nice if i knew someone els near me that had an MAS i could tryout, all my grounds are new also.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

update: i seemed to have solved my idle problem. i removed one of my vaccume hoses (the one that goes underneath the fuel rail) and sprayed the crap out of the opening with carb cleaner. I still have the no power at top end problem, but the idle is way better.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

ok, another update: my idle problem was only solved temporarily by the carb cleaner, and now it has seemed to build up an immunity to it, if the problem comes back, and i spray again, it will stay fixed for a shorter period of time. also, now when it acts like its gonna die, it dies. SO, with some determination, i decided to see what codes im throwing. the FAQ doesnt mention short and long blinks, but my pattern goes like this: 1 long, 2 short, then a pause, then 4 long, and 5 short, followed by a long pause and it starts over. Im assuming that 1 long 2 short is code # 12, which is Air Flow Meter Circuit. (what exactly is that? mass air sensor is crap?), and 4 long 5 short is code 45 (injector leak).thoughts? opinions?

[dareo]

I think your suffering from I still have a KA24 in my car syndrome. I know, it sucks. I'm still saving cash for a real engine.

You could try suckin in some seafoam, get a can or two at Napa, it will at least make a cool smoke show when it burns the crud from your engine.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I seafoamed my car a while ago, didnt really do anything for me, although the smoke show was cool and it shut down the road temporarily. it was also cool seeing thick smoke come out of my sidepipe in my sideview mirror, blowing into the other lane.