weird noise after 3 blown turbos, please take a moment to giive your opinion

[filluptieu]

Alright guys, well I want to first say thank you for giving 5 minutes to check out my problem. I have a s13 sr20det redtop t25, sidemount, greddy type s bov, 3 inch exhaust, xs power exhaust manifold.She runs at 7 psi and no more. When I first got the car the turbo was blown and white smoke would come out the exhaust. I replaced it with another used t25 and at the same time removed the power steering to have a easier time. One week later the turbo starts locking up (I would boost some times and at other times it would not boost at all) So I check the turbo by taking off the inlet flange and the shaft play was crazy! And some of the outside fins were bent… Well no big deal, a good friend of mine gave me his t25 that has the tiniest shaft play, one of the best I have ever felt.So I replaced the turbo and everything runs great! Spools great and everything minus one problem, theres a nasty exhaust leak from the rectangular flange that goes in between the manifold and the t25 (its acheap ebay cardboard flange). Well I then changed the flange to a metal one and it runs even better without the stupid leak… well driving on the highway about 2 hours after getting the flange in the turbo all the sudden makes a loud sound as if metal was grinding and the turbo stops boosting. Please keep inmind THAT I DO NOT OVER REV THE t25 AND ONLY MODERATE BOOST. So I bring it home and take off the inlet flange and again the turbo is blown, no smoke but crazy shaft play and bent outside fins. This is also a week and a half after I replaced the turbo and I didn’t drive it for 2 days because of the blown exhaust gasket.Well so now I get really curious and check the oil pressure by hooking up a gauge and the pressure is just fine. Check the banjo and I see small metal threads in the banjo. I clean nit out and find out that the threads on the block for the oil is stripped (but only on the outside) so I re tap it with a heilcoil and wrap the banjo with Teflon tape and it seals up just fine. I also (when I have the second blown turbo in) took off the oil return line(the black rubber hose) oil just flowed out real nicely like nothing was wrong. Also the water pressure should be fine since a whole bunch of it came out when I took off the banjo from the block.THE PROBLEMNow I finally get fed up and pay good money for a completely rebuilt turbo, I mean balanced and everything, it has even been sand blasted and repainted. I put the new turbo in and start driving (knowing that it needs to be broken in) at a steady rate and as It starts to get close to ZERO boost a whining noise that is coming from the front of the car(engine bay). After probably about 10 miles of driving it gets worst. Also it only happends before boost, when it does boost you don’t hear anything wrong with it. Another thing to mention is that when this sound happens it wont boost at all and it holds back for about 3 or 4 seconds then it boost.I open the inlet flange again and it now has shaft play but nothing to bad. It isn’t scratching the wall and no bend flanges. All the lines have been tighten. I replaced the wastegate. Checked for tares in the plastic lines.I cant figure it out….

[nuts510]

sounds like you're starving it for oil remove your oil supply line make sure it is not clogged up. Also make sure your oil return line is clear

[rc1honda]

Yeah sound like a oil problem. You should make the change to steel braided lines and throw the rubber hose in the trash. Maybe your oil needs to be replced as well.

You can find the SS line for pretty cheap too.

Another thing did you prime the turbo before boosting it? This could be a problem to. ou have to hand turn the crank to get oil into the turbo before you start the engine. This gets all the internal parts oiled before you spin the turbo at however many RPM's.

[filluptieu]

okay so your telling me replacing the oil lines but are you only talking about the feed line from the block to the turbo or the return line or both?

also i didnt prime the system but oil does come out of the return line. I took off the rubber return hose line and started the car and oil poured out.

also the noise does not happen on idle only when i accelerate

[rc1honda]

Replace both the feed and return. Also replace the coolant lines as well with AN fitted SS lines. Also i meant to say on my first post to replace your oil pump.

Next time you buy a turbo make sure you prime the system by hand first. Even at idle the turbo is still spinning by the flow of esxhaust gases. If theres no oil then it gonna warp and bend and scrape.

[CHOPPER BOB]

i had used teflon tape on my banjo fitting on my 3000gt after having a similar problem and the teflon tape ended up block my oil upon install. i now use liquid teflon. probably not related just a side note.

[filluptieu]

Replace both the feed and return. Also replace the coolant lines as well with AN fitted SS lines. Also i meant to say on my first post to replace your oil pump.

Next time you buy a turbo make sure you prime the system by hand first. Even at idle the turbo is still spinning by the flow of esxhaust gases. If theres no oil then it gonna warp and bend and scrape.

Okay I think I'm confused again, the oil pressure on my mechanical gauge is fine so doesent that mean the pump is in good working order?

And I did just purchase some ss lines for inlet oil and coolant and outlet coolant but doesent the oil return not need a ss line because the oil just flows out and is not pressurized like the other lines

[david200095367]

your return line should be fine. just pull it off and make sure nothing is inside blocking oil passage.

[newbe240owner]

I would take it back to the place you got it built and see if they can chek it and if that doesn't help try FP they take t25's and put built 28 internals in them for 800 and you know they do good work