Ive suspended driving my car due to a weird problem, let me explain.
1. Car drives fine at start up
2. Car warms up, boggs from about 3800 to 4200 RPM
3. Once it gets through the bogg it hauls a** like a bat outta hell
4. Monitoring my AFR it gets dangerously rich, like 9.1 type dangerous.
5. After getting through the bogg the car hauls but the AFR is still at 9.1ish
the only to get it to stay around 13-14 is to baby it into boost.dont think its detonating. It wouldve blown up by now but until i figure it out its parked. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?
Setup is the Greddy 20G kit. Tuned by JW tech for t28 and sr370s on a stock MAF. dont think its the tune i upgraded to GReddy setup a long time ago and its been running fine at .7 bar at full gain
Weird issue with ka-t
-
trackslut240
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 10:24 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
- Contact:
Re: Weird issue with ka-t (driftking561)
time for a fuel pressure check?injectors leaky maybe?maybe spray some maf cleaner..
-
driftking561
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:44 pm
- Car: ka-t sil80
Re: Weird issue with ka-t (trackslut240)
Yea thats what i was thinking. A buddy of mine suggested the colant temp sensor that goes to the ecu is bad. Ill investigate and keep you posted thanks for the advice.trackslut240 wrote:time for a fuel pressure check?injectors leaky maybe?maybe spray some maf cleaner..
-
trackslut240
- Posts: 312
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2004 10:24 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
- Contact:
Re: Weird issue with ka-t (driftking561)
bad cts usually makes it run crappy all the time...worth a check tho...diagnose sensors and electronics...if no problem found...start throwing parts at it..lol..jk
-
WDRacing
- Moderator
- Posts: 15983
- Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
- Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
- Location: MFFO
- Contact:
Re: Weird issue with ka-t (driftking561)
Change your oil.
I guarantee you have to much fuel in the oil right now. So before you do anything, change it.
Never drive a car running that rich, you'll strip the oil from the cylinder walls and dilute the oil in the sump which will lead to it's break down which means all of your bearings will be metal on metal or close to it. Buy 10 quarts of cheap dino oil and change it again after you find the problem.
With that said...
The FSM has tests for the IAT and coolant sensor. Or just replace them. Usually having those sensors go bad changes the timing map, not the fuel map.
The MAF should be fine. They 99% either work or don't. Usually not an intermittent type of part. The max flow they will read is between 250 and 300 whp depending on the car etc. When it's maxed out the ecu will stop adding fuel so it will lean itself out and pop. I don't think that's your issue since it wouldn't be maxed out until close to redline with a T28.
The O2 sensor will cause ugly rich conditions and if it's F'd then it will cause the car to jerk and jump right around where your's is doing it now. I know because mine did the exact same thing. Buy a cheap single wire Bosch O2 from where ever, should be $19 or so.
Pull/clean the plugs with a brass brush.
Pull the plug wires and inspect them for worn spots or kinks.
All of this is assuming you don't have a coupler that popped off or got torn.
Change your oil, look for coupler/vac leaks then do those other steps I mentioned.
Once it's all fixed, change the oil again and reclean the plugs.
WD
I guarantee you have to much fuel in the oil right now. So before you do anything, change it.
Never drive a car running that rich, you'll strip the oil from the cylinder walls and dilute the oil in the sump which will lead to it's break down which means all of your bearings will be metal on metal or close to it. Buy 10 quarts of cheap dino oil and change it again after you find the problem.
With that said...
The FSM has tests for the IAT and coolant sensor. Or just replace them. Usually having those sensors go bad changes the timing map, not the fuel map.
The MAF should be fine. They 99% either work or don't. Usually not an intermittent type of part. The max flow they will read is between 250 and 300 whp depending on the car etc. When it's maxed out the ecu will stop adding fuel so it will lean itself out and pop. I don't think that's your issue since it wouldn't be maxed out until close to redline with a T28.
The O2 sensor will cause ugly rich conditions and if it's F'd then it will cause the car to jerk and jump right around where your's is doing it now. I know because mine did the exact same thing. Buy a cheap single wire Bosch O2 from where ever, should be $19 or so.
Pull/clean the plugs with a brass brush.
Pull the plug wires and inspect them for worn spots or kinks.
All of this is assuming you don't have a coupler that popped off or got torn.
Change your oil, look for coupler/vac leaks then do those other steps I mentioned.
Once it's all fixed, change the oil again and reclean the plugs.
WD