Weird Check Engine Light

[SmokeyMCN]

Hey guys, So i had this problem on my 300zx b4 but to be honest i dont remember what fixed it ..... i think i just reset the battery or something and it fixed it , maybe that was another problem that was fixed like that. Regardless, it was fixed for a couple months and now the problem decided to started happening again.

Please keep in mind THIS DOESNT HAPPEN ALL THE TIME !!! it happens sometimes,
At least once a day though.

When the light comes on, theres nothing wrong with the car, NO change in performance, No change in sound, No change in gauges like temp and psi.
If it helps , its a non turbo

My observations are that it ONLY comes on in 3rd gear at abour 3400 RPMS, Give or a take a few hundred,and it goes off once the RPMS drop to around 2700, regardless of what gear. Ive seen it come one twice in second gear at around 5500 RPMS but mostly only in 3RD

HERES 2 VIDEOS I RECORDED TO HELP YOU GUYS HAVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF WHATS HAPPENING :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg0qM982 ... QcdGNfwMUd

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4rwHaz9 ... QcdGNfwMUd

Any idea of what could be causing this??

[nissanfreak12]

Have you pulled codes? It should still be saved if you haven't disconnected the battery.

I am guessing this is an automatic. The way it acts is almost like a vac leak, pretty big one. But with it being temperamental, I am second guessing myself. EGR function possibility? Bad connection with sensor, making the voltage surge?

[SmokeyMCN]

So i just woke up and went and tested the ECU code thing,

I got 34 , 53 and 13,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5oCjObl ... QcdGNfwMUd


Im going to look up whats what, i know 13 is some temperature sensor which is what i was hoping it would be because last night i was looking around the forum and some one had a problem like mine and their code was 13 which is an EASY fix.

IDK the rest im about to look them up,

IS THIS NORMAL!?!??! : After i finished with the ECU i went to start the car and it like Choked and cranked terribly and wouldnt start for the first 3 times, then it started normally, WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON PERMANENTLY and then the check engine light went OFF in 3rd gear 3400 RPMS ( Where it would normally go ON) and it stayed off my whole ride back home O.o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfNuRQBi ... 8d8IXaGFib

ALSO IT IS STICK NOT AUTO, and you said somthing about voltage or something, I had subs, Hids, and a PA system on my car would that have any effect?

Code 13: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit
Code 34: detonation sensor circuit
Code 53: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)

So could you tell me more information about what EACH is, What could have caused it, WILL any lead to any future problems, What needs to be replace, AND DO THEY ALL CORRESPOND WITH EACH OTHER?

[nissanfreak12]

Was it 53 or 54?

If it was a 54 and a 5 speed, this may be your issue.

53 is right o2 sensor. If this goes out, it can do some odd things. I had one short on me internally, causing all kinds of havoc. Check the connections make sure they are not corroded. If not check wiring and if that checks out, change it out.

34 detonation sensor obviously. This is more commonly the wire harness and not the sensor. Same thing check the connection.

What I meant by voltage surge, was corrosion in connections. An example is one sensor is working 90% of the time, but the corrosion gets the best of it 10% of the time, and the connection breaks, causing what you may be seeing. If all your emissions is hooked up, you have a solenoid that controls the egr, this could be opening incorrectly causing your rpm to drop or vice versa.

Check all your connections, make sure they are not corroded. See if that helps out.

[SmokeyMCN]

Sorry it was 53 not 54, typo i guess.

Yeah its
13
34
53

So what exactly do i need to check and where? im a bit confused

So its the right o2 sensor, and what are the odd things it can do?

And how much would this all cost me to replace and could any of this cause any damage to the car or change in performance?

Like i am completely clueless about everything in this situation. I dont even know what the functions of these are other than what i can assume by name

[nissanfreak12]

O2 sensor test the oxygen in the exhaust, regulates how much fuel goes into the engine(this is a simple way to explain it). When the O2 sensor goes bad, it puts it in a open loop so it will always run rich. Running rich means its dumping a lot of fuel in the engine. Your car runs rich during warm up, when it reaches operating temperature, it leans out. When its bad the computer will always think its warming up, so to speak. This will affect performance.

Code 13 is temp sensor, this tells the computer the temp of the engine, when this is not reading right, it will do about the same aspect as the O2 sensor. It will always run rich. Bad for performance.

Code 34, det sensor or knock sensor. This will retard the timing when the engine is knocking, improper combustion. This is very bad for your car, especially turbos. Not so much for NA, but it will still effect it.

It sounds like like the connections are corroded, best thing you can do is unplug the temp sensor connector, look at the blades inside the plug/sensor. If they are green, that is corrosion. They need to be cleaned. I used an electric connection cleaner and very small file. A small flat head screw driver works ok, but the file is what really worked for me.

Check this out;
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... zjO9QF6bkQ

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... T9H4qE0tMw

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... zjO9QF6bkQ

[SmokeyMCN]

thanks for the explanation
but wouldnt it putting more fuel into the engine sort of increase performance?
and where could i find this file, id rather do it with that than a screwdriver, i like do to things the right way because with my luck i always mess something else up .......

[nissanfreak12]

All you are really going to do it scrape the "crud" off. Go to an auto part store and ask them about a mini file, something less than a 1/4 inch wide. If you have a harbor freight in your area, this is where I got mine. These....

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-p ... -4614.html

Dumping more fuel would not increase performance unless you have more air going in as well. There has to be a good air/fuel mixture, 14.7 is the ideal number. Unless you had a AF gauge or conzult, you really would have no idea what you are running. Here is some good reading, hopefully it will make sense to you...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... f1HNiVY-Bw

I know our cars have a lot of issues with the wiring harness, it being 20years old doesn't help, but we all fight corrosion in the harness. I would clean all the connectors the best you can, and go from there. Good luck.

[nissanfreak12]

All you are really going to do it scrape the "crud" off. Go to an auto part store and ask them about a mini file, something less than a 1/4 inch wide. If you have a harbor freight in your area, this is where I got mine. These....

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-p ... -4614.html

Dumping more fuel would not increase performance unless you have more air going in as well. There has to be a good air/fuel mixture, 14.7 is the ideal number. Unless you had a AF gauge or conzult, you really would have no idea what you are running. Here is some good reading, hopefully it will make sense to you...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... f1HNiVY-Bw

I know our cars have a lot of issues with the wiring harness, it being 20years old doesn't help, but we all fight corrosion in the harness. I would clean all the connectors the best you can, and go from there. Good luck.

[SmokeyMCN]

Thanks , ill read up on it more
And ill check the code 13 sensor since that's the only thing I know the location of.
So I just scrape the " spikes "? Couldn't think of the word..... Pr

[nissanfreak12]

Yes, the sensor will have 2 prongs, considered the male side. The connector is female, where the two prongs insert. Ideally you would want to clean both of them. Be careful not to bent the female side open too much. Just take your time, this is going to be a long process.

[InitialForce]

Just my 2 cents.

If you are popping an O2 code, ignore code 13 and code 34 for right now. Also ignore the fuel temp sensor code if it comes on.

Long story short I had an O2 sensor short out on me and throw all kinds of weird codes. Since I had replaced my left side O2 sensor like a week before I decided I was going to replace the other side too and wola all my codes and problems went away. Weird thing was the right side O2 never threw a code.