Weighing my options, would anyone be interested in a partout

[DEEPfrom1]

This is not a for sale thread? Just a gauge of interest thread. Just weighing my options here. I have a complete ca18det, third piston ring is no good and needs a head gasket. Everything else is in great shape. Gt28r, 450's, wiring specialties harness, emance tuned ecu etc. Any interest?

I may go 1jz, but would need to sell off this stuff first. Again, not a for sale thread!

[Dattebayo]

Maybe it would help if people knew where you are....

Just a thought.

[DEEPfrom1]

Good call man, I am in Binghamton NY. Can some give me a realistic figure on what would sell and roughly how much? And also, help me decide if I want to build this engine or go either ka-t, rb or 1jz! Input, my decision making skills are confused currently. Ha, thanks guys.

P.S. I think I start more new topics than anyone.

[float_6969]

What are your goals with the car? The cheapest option is ALWAYS to fix what you have. You'll spend way less on putting new rings and a HG in your motor than you will selling what you have and going another route. And I mean, A LOT less.

[DEEPfrom1]

I will be drifting this car 1-2 times a month at the track, also local drags a few times. Some street action,Just a bad a** car i general, it isn't my daily driver. If I keep the ca18 it will be getting 84mm forged pistons, and forged rods, t3/t4 50 trim, top mount mani and intake mani both custom made by myself and a friend. And some colt cams for the cherry on top./ Its that or an RB20 or RB25. I get all parts at cost, thanks to my ""sponsorship"" (my friends have owned a performance shop for year, I rock a sticker I pay cost for everything. Building the ca will cost the as swapping in the rb25 and replacement parts. I am looking for an honest 400whp that can take a beating. Thanks guys.

[float_6969]

The RB20 isn't worth it, rebuild the CA. The RB25 will easily make the HP you're after. It's almost overkill actually. The CA18 can make 400whp w/o a problem as long as you've got the tuning inline. I'll also tell you that the forged rods in the CA are a waste of money (for that power level). Get some ARP rod bolts installed in the stock rods and you'll be fine. The RB is a MUCH heavier motor and will take some changes in the suspension tuning to get the car to handle like it does with the CA18. The main advantage the RB has over the CA is greater horsepower potential (later on down the road) and a broader powerband. Otherwise it's heaver and more expensive to purchase and upgrade. The CA requires no money to purchase (you already have it), it's MUCH lighter, and can make the power you're after. It does start to loose it's viability as a street motor over the 400hp mark as it's power band starts to get quite peaky due to the small displacement requiring a lot more boost to make the same power as the RB. But for your primary uses of drifting and drag racing, the wide power-band afforded by the RB won't be utilized very much.

My vote is still to rebuild the CA (trust me on the rods, the money is better spent elsewhere).

[DEEPfrom1]

Good point, I am leaning towards keeping the ca, I have it, it was already in the car, wiring is done. Local-ish tuning shop (j-Ktuning) will dyno tune my car with a eprom for $400 not bad. The thing about the rods is: Arp hardware is $100, recondition the rods is like 18 per rod locally so that = $172, give or take a few. I can get a set of rods for 220-250 new. So on average I will be spending $60 more to get rods. Which is not a huge deal.

Pistons: I see that supertech offers an 84.5 mm bore piston, is that .5mm going to be pushing the walls to much? While on topic of pistons, will I see anything going from an 8.5:1 to a 9.0:1 compression piston? Or will i just be wasting time?

Thanks for the input man!

[float_6969]

84.5 is too big for a turbo motor. Maybe if it were a high comp. NA you'd be OK, but you're not, so stick with the 84mm as a max. Going from 8.5-9.0 will make more power, but increase the octane requirements of you're fuel. You'll probably still be OK, to run this comp. ratio with pump gas, but be aware of detonation, and that the addition of a water or water/alky injection setup may be required to prevent detonation and still run optimal fuel and timing.

[DEEPfrom1]

In NY we have 93 octane available, I assume that would run the 9:1 up to 400whp. The only real requirements for this build is pump gas! Float, while I have your attention, Ill run a turbo question by you. I am pretty sure that I know the answer, but running my inference by someone for second opinion never hurts; will the t3/t4 50 trim .63 ar bring me 400whp? I am assuming that it will.

[float_6969]

It shouldn't have any problem getting you to that power level.

[DEEPfrom1]

Thanks for the thought reinforcement, now to find a good machine shop in NY.

* Anyone know what to get the 4.3 final drive diff out of?

[float_6969]

my diff? LMAO. You need the stock diff that came with the S13's that came with CA18DET's in Japan. Do NOT get the diff that came with the CA18DE's. It's something ridiculous like 4.6. I'll also tell you that the 4.3 mated with the CA18DE(T)'s shorter 5th gear (yes, the CA18DE(T)'s got a shorter 5th than what came with the SR's and KA's) it makes for a terrible highway car. I think it was spinning something silly like 4K @ 75mph. When I had my trans rebuilt, I had them pull the 5th gear out of my KA trans and put it in the CA trans. It helped some, but not a lot. I honestly think that if I actually hit the 400whp mark that I think I might, I'm gonna have to ditch these 4.3 gears for traction's sake. w/300hp there was no traction with anything less than 4th gear running an S15 T28 @ 18psi on E85. I also have high compression though, so others might not have the stupid amounts of TQ I have.

[DEEPfrom1]

I was actually looking at the 4.6 fd out of the 2001 xterra's front diff. I figured it would help the lag. I have currently have and s15 t28 with the stock 92 240sx diff and its lagy, it feels like my transmission is 5 years long. I can hit in 3rd and before i finish the rpm range inn 4th i am way out of numbers on the speedometer. With the current diff in the car, its boring and something needs to be done!

[Kaforlife]

I know you decided to keep it but if you want to sell again I would buy the harness and ecu with tune.

[DEEPfrom1]

Those parts are long sold.