Weber Conversion Question

[braiden]

Hi all,

So, I've given up on the Hitachi in my 720 and decided to do the Weber conversion. Everything went smoothly until it came time to attach the return spring bracket. On the included instructions, it said, "Place the return spring bracket provided over the stud closest to the firewall and the valve cover so that the bracket points straight back and up."

All fine and good, but then it instructs you to put the carb on over the bracket! Well, not exactly, it's just the next step and reads, "Install the Weber Carburator on the four mounting studs."

So, I began by following the instructions, but noticed that the bottom of the carb does not have an indent to allow for the base of the return spring bracket. So, instead, I placed the carb on the studs, then put the bracket on top of the carb base. Looks like this:




In order to do this, I had to screw out the stud from the adapter plate and discard the included spring washer in order to allow enough space on the the stud to secure the carb.

So, my question to those who have made this conversion: was this also your experience. Also, could someone please provide an image from the rear of their installed Weber?

Oh, one other issue: the receiving slot on my throttle bracket is to small for the cable housing (the bolt adjustment part). Has anyone else experienced this? Would the use of the old bracket cause a problem?

EDIT: I grinded out the the bracket slot and it fits perfectly!


Thanks for all your help!

Braiden

[PEZi]

Nice, man. Yeah, ran into the same issue when I installed mine. Ended up bending the bracket to make the spring work properly, but I guess the grinder would have made more sense. Good stuff!

[braiden]

Thanks, man!

Though, I ground the extra metal off the throttle bracket, not the spring bracket. My fault for not being clear. I think I'll grind out the spring bracket to adjust the direction that it faces.

I noticed from some of your earlier posts that you performed the conversion as well. I'm about to hook up the auto-choke component, and I noticed in the directions that it asks you too attach the "idle cut off selenoid" to the choke, but that doesn't sound right to me. I've identified which is the choke wire and which is the anti-dieseling wire. Now, I just need to know which one to hook up. Do you have a pic of your harness, or have any advice on how to do this? Also, what did you do with the other wire (mine harness only has two wires).

Thanks!

[braiden]

Okay,

So, the Weber is on the truck and there’s a definite increase in performance, but it’s still a little wobbly. Before I start other fine tuning, I wanted to pass a few things by the panel.

1. As for the EGR valve and its buddy, I’ve deleted the vacuum hoses that were coming from the carb and plugged the two remaining ones on the valves themselves (pic below). Do I need to remove these valves and find a way to plug the manifold, or are the harmless in their current state?



2. I noticed in the images from others who have completed the conversion that they used an inline filter on the fuel line going to the new carb. Is this necessary? Mine didn't have one on the old carb, so I was just curious. I haven't added the fuel pressure regulator, but hope to do that in the near future.



3. In my last post, I asked a question about the choke/idle selenoid wires, and decided in the end that it made more sense to hook up the choke wire instead of the old idle cut-off wire. Seems to work fine so far, but let me know if this sounds right to you.



4. I haven't blocked off the old EGR tubes that were coming off the exhaust manifold, and I don't intend to run it excessively until I do, but I did notice quite a lot of smoke coming out of the larger one this morning. Would you think this to be normal, or evidence of something really bad.



Thanks for all your help!

[PEZi]

Personally, I never even hooked up the auto choke. I ran it open all the time since it was a summer race truck. But, it all looks pretty good. All that really matters is giving it an excite wire that is on when the ignition is on, similar to the excite wire for a starter.

[artemoushue1]

How is the conversion? I had to fabricate the return spring bracket with mine. A fuel pressure regulator is almost paramount on a Weber, they like low pressure. The carb has a fine screen in the inlet but an inline can provide a bit finer protection.
A problem I had with mine is the adapter plates kept loosening up, even with locktite. I eventually had the adapters welded to the manifold, I then ported them.
The EGR valves may be necessary for your emissions inspection. However, connecting the vacuum to the carb with the screw still in the vacuum port with prevent them from opening. I dyno'd a 7 hp gain at the rear wheels with the EGR blocked AND lower HC results. It makes no sense to me to inject essentially oxygen less air into something that needs to be burnt.

Pull the darn heat shield off of your exhaust!! It looks bad. Where the old vacuum things are in the manifold and no longer used, get some pipe plugs. I also noticed your air filter is white, If its the gauze unit put some K&N oil on it.

Also, don't loop the fuel line like that, It'll eventualy flatten and collapse. Go to the hardware store and get a right angle fitting for it

As for tuning, if yours is stock, drop the primary jet by .05 They usually come with 1.35 but I've seen 1.30 and 1.40 in the primaries. 140/140 as some are jetted is way to rich for a stock engine.The 32/36 tends to be a bit rich factory. I'm running 1.30 and 1.50sec but I have quite a few engine mods. You have a lot you can play with in jetting, but the factory jetting is pretty good.

Do you still need pics?

[Malia123]

Has anyone ever done this conversion and had a milky substance in the hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner. There is none in the oil or water, just in the hose and the air cleaner now. I'm not sure it the truck had this issue with the old carb or not I only looked at it after the Weber was installed (its new).

[PEZi]

What color is the substance? Usually milky anything means that there is water/coolant in the oil, but if you don't have any in the oil itself, it seems that may not be the issue. Did you do an oil change yet to be sure there is none in there? To answer your question, no, I have never had that happen. Then again, I never ran the tube as I always just had a breather filter on the crankcase.

[artemoushue1]

If their is no water then the oil:

If your running a K&N filter, then it may be engine water spray,through radiator or something, mixing with the oil on the air filter. In this case, the filter is probably way over oiled. It may be spraying gasoline inside the air filter housing causing some of the air filter oil to run down. Lastly if there is excessive blow by, it may be misting some oil up that tube over oiling the filter. If you're in a humid climate, that may be enough moisture to mix with one of the previous conditions.

Clean everything real good. Oil the filter, if applicable, just enough to make it red. Or, try a dry element. I'm not fond of dry elements on an open housing as the moisture may shorten its life significantly.

Take a good pic of it and post if you can.