weber carb questions

[jdamion]

So i know i can pickup a weber carb from weber carbs direct...

But there isnt all the vacuume line hookups on that carb and your truck wont run great without them right?

I'm not trying to pass emissions btw, dont have that here.

so my question is:

would it be more cost effective to rebuilt the stock hatiachi carb with bigger jets or "t valve"?

a 32/36 would be nice, but i'm hoping something up in the 40's?

what does 32/36 even mean?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

[PEZi]

ok... so basically... your truck runs better with NO vac lines... so a weber running a single vac line (distributor advance) is all you need to run great

if you're not worried about emissions... then you're good by removing all the lines and running the weber

the hitachi is crap... if you're looking for better performance get a weber

if you're worried about cost... find a used weber and rebuild that... hell it might not even need a rebuild

32/36 is 32mm primary barrel and 36mm secondary barrel... its a progressive carb... the 32mm barrel opens for basic street driving to save gas and the 36mm barrel opens under hard throttle accelerating etc. for performance

other carbs that work for the truck are the 34 DGEC, 36 DGEC and 38 DGES. these are all synchronous carbs meaning that both barrels are the same size and operate the same at all times... the advantage to this is improved throttle response down low but gas mileage kinda goes away... the bigger the barrel the more performance basically... the numbers correspond to the size of the barrels

[turbojunker]

Your truck has an L20B in it, right? No need for a huge a** carb. A 32/36 would be plenty for it. Especially with nothing else done to the engine.

Stripping the emissions off of an L engine is pretty easy, I've done a couple, and they still had a Hitachi on them.

[flinterman2000]

Your truck has an L20B in it, right? No need for a huge a** carb. A 32/36 would be plenty for it. Especially with nothing else done to the engine.

A 32/36 is the best bang for your bucks in a L20B and is the easiest to dial in for best economy and performance. I recommend you forget about the hitachi and try a webber. Even a used one is preferable to the hitachi.

[PEZi]

oh... he has an L20b?

yeah nothing bigger than a 32/36

[turbojunker]

An '80 720 *should* have an L20B. Whether his does or not, I can't say.

[PEZi]

lol.. yeah i just never thought to look at the year... so many of us have Z24's i forget sometimes there are other engines out there

[jdamion]

yea i got a L20B untill i blow it. lol

thanks for all the info. i'll save up on the side for the carb i guess..

How much labor goes into replacing the front seals of the motor? and the oil pan, it looks hard to get to because of the crossmember.

i kinda want my motor to stop leaking oil before i put performance parts into it. lol.

[jdamion]

how about the linkage? do i use what came stock in the kit? do i need a stronger spring or anything? would i get better performance using a carb spacer?

sorry for all the questions guys.

[jdamion]

manual choke is better? or not?

[turbojunker]

manual choke is better? or not?

Electric chokes are a lot less hassle.

[PEZi]

manual chokes are fine id you wanna save the money there

if you buy the full conversion kit from webercarbsdirect it comes with EVERYTHING you need

and yes... to drop my oil pan i had to drop the crossmember too

[flinterman2000]

How much labor goes into replacing the front seals of the motor? and the oil pan, it looks hard to get to because of the crossmember. i kinda want my motor to stop leaking oil before i put performance parts into it. lol.

I did not have to drop the cross member, but my engine is the J16 with a flat sump. With the L18 in my brothers KC it was difficult but we removed the oil pan without dropping the pan also. We had to remove the oil pick up though.

[PEZi]

yeah the oil pickup was the only thing keeping from it... but the crossmember was easy to take out and put back in so i just did that

[jdamion]

right, dont wanna flood the damn thing...

[flinterman2000]

How much labor goes into replacing the front seals of the motor?

Hey we only talked about the oil pan. Remove the crankshaft pulley. With the bolts on the sump removed you will only need to remove the bolt that holds the front of the head to the front cover and then pry off the cover from the front of the engine. Use a dull cold chisel to remove the seal from the cover and use a socket or piece of pipe the same size as the new seal to install it. Reassembly is the opposite of scrapping except the bolt between the head and cover is to go in last before tightening.

[jdamion]

notes taken, you guys are the BEST! !!

[breadbox]

I added some tune-up info to the 720 FAQ.

[t_mertz]

Ok so any ideas about me? Ive got a d21 with z24 720 intake mani and vac distributor im running the 38 outlaw i picked up off a guy who had it on a 6cly jeep any clues as to what. size jets this should have for the z24?

[PEZi]

you have a D21 with a carbed Z24? interesting

umm... if its a 38 weber 145's are good for most altitudes... idle jets and air correctors are the only thing to really worry about if you're above sea level

[sawyer's720]

my question is this. i have to pass california emissions and i am in need of some better performance. i have SMOG coming up and my carb is in need of a rebuild. should i just rebuild the stock hitachi or replace it with a weber and use the stock air cleaner to hide it? any suggestions would be great.

[PEZi]

you can definitely make the the weber hidden by the air cleaner... but that doesn't mean it will pass

a lot of emissions stuff just has issues working with a weber... if you really want to make sure you pass just use the stock one

does it need a rebuild to pass? or can you just make it work and then swap it out after the test?

[sawyer's720]

most likely it will need a rebuild to pass. it's been running terrible lately. you don't think a 32/36 would pass?

[PEZi]

well it should pass the idle test fine... the problem is that when installing a weber you remove a lot of emissions stuff... there's just no place for it to run to off the weber... so with that stuff missing i can't say it would

[AZ720]

I have a z24 w/32/36 Weber. Im in AZ and my truck has to go through emissions testing. When I initially installed it I had a year before I needed testing. Took it and it failed, then remembered that we had advanced the timing so that the secondary would open quicker. We reset the timing /distributor back to stock and sure enough she passed with flying colors. After registration advanced it again. I was thinking about dual Weber side draft 40's but my motor finally took a dump on me two weeks ago. BTW dual Weber runs 1300.00 and includes intake manifold on carbsdirect.com.since reading a ton of the info here I think I will look into swapping out for a ka24e or de still thinking about it.