Ways to better change the oil on the 1990-1996 Q45

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Infinitiguy19
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Well today I did my first oil change on my 1993 Infiniti Q45. It was about 26*F and I decided why take it to some place to have them do it when I can do it my self. The temperature was not the worst part, actually matter of fact I didn't even have to wear a coat.

But I did notice that once the filter is removed or even loosened the oil spills on the power steering hose, plastic under engine sheild..... Now there is no way to prevent this whether it be having it done at a reputable shop/dealer or doing it your self. The (FGY33 1997-2001 Q45) that has the oil filter "bracket/catch plate", can that be installed on the G50 (1990-1996 Q45)?

Thanks Mike for all your help and inspiring me....


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goody90q45
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See, I told you it wasn't rocket science.

Is there anything else you'd like to add? Like....did you change the filter from the top or bottom? Bracket get in your way?

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Infinitiguy19
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N/A
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

qship96
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The reason for changing the filter from the bottom{while car is on a lift} is not only to protect the maf from un-needed movement, but also to be able to use a can of brake cleaner to mop up the spilled oil from removing the filter!!!! Also gives you the ability to do a complete under car inspection.

Last oil change, my inspection revealed a newly torn rack boot and leaking tension rod bushing{both were fine during last oil change/inspection 90 days prior } Best $15 per 90 days spent!

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Infinitiguy19
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qship96 wrote:The reason for changing the filter from the bottom{while car is on a lift} is not only to protect the maf from un-needed movement, but also to be able to use a can of brake cleaner to mop up the spilled oil from removing the filter!!!! Also gives you the ability to do a complete under car inspection.
I totally agree and understand with what your saying. But I have tried everyone that is local to me. But like its been said "Senior Infiniti Techs are rare!!!" I have yet to find someone who understands the car as much as I do let alone knows more than I do that is also local. I also know that people won't stay in business long if they focus on one brand let alone a single car.

But I will use brake parts cleaner to clean it all up next time, It slipped my mind.

And those who claim to have to have worked on cars like mine charge a lot for nothing. So the way I see it I save $10-$30 every 2K-3K miles. Plus no one I have been to can do a oil change right without havening me fear what will happen while waiting.

Plus I can look under the car while the oil is draining I suppose to inspect the undercarriage....
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

maxnix
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Paul Wall wrote:But I did notice that once the filter is removed or even loosened the oil spills on the power steering hose, plastic under engine sheild..... Now there is no way to prevent this whether it be having it done at a reputable shop/dealer or doing it your self.
How does it spill on the under engine tray when it is several feet away after it has been removed? Most "reputable shops" have a telescoping drain pan that fits underneath the oil filter mount to prevent oil from flowing forward to power steering hoses.

Be certain car is on the lift horizontally and not nose down vertically.

This really isn't rocket science.

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Infinitiguy19
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I got really lazy when I posted that, But when I did the oil change myself I did not remove the cover. I just undid the drain bolt, slid the a oil change pan under then fully removed the drain bolt. That way the car did not have to be raised or anything.
maxnix wrote:Be certain car is on the lift horizontally and not nose down vertically.

This really isn't rocket science.
I used to have that fear when I trusted "Reputable shop".

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Paul Wall wrote:Case in point Kelly Infiniti wants $40 for a oil change with BULK oil and a OEM VH45DE killing filter.
Since Nissan quit manufacturing the real VH45DE oil filters, they have specified since the inadequate VQ30DE filter.

Buy M1 filters for cheap from Joe, or be very careful which brand you choose. There was a link to an excellent oil filter test posted by Q45tech a couple of years ago.

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Infinitiguy19
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maxnix wrote:Since Nissan quit manufacturing the real VH45DE oil filters, they have specified since the inadequate VQ30DE filter.

Buy M1 filters for cheap from Joe, or be very careful which brand you choose. There was a link to an excellent oil filter test posted by Q45tech a couple of years ago.
Very True, unfortunately where I live even the Auto Zone is made out of gold because they charge $13 for the Mobil one filter.

But do you guys think the FGY33 oil catch plate will fit on the VH45DE, After all its the same block sort of?

FGY33: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink

G50: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink

I know you guys will say "Why not get a Z32 oil filter re locator?" Well if you know me, then you know I like to keep things as OEM as possible, while being better.

Either way if I find a FGY33 around here I will hit the yard and see.

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Just change it from the bottom and clean with a can of brake parts cleaner. I can't imagine finding room to put extra stuff in there...

Only you could start a 10+ post thread about oil changes

Heath

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BEST thing I ever did to simplify/speed up oil change process on the Q was buy one of these:



Go up around the inside of the filter and, while you don't have a lot of room to move, the wrench lets you make the most of it. MUCH easier to maneuver in the cramped space than the common band style filter wrenches. Just don't bite to hard when using it on your fresh filter.

My first few oil changes with the Q took forever. These days I can have the whole job done in under 15 minutes.

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i have never been sucessful with an oil filter wrench... So I just put the filters in hand tight, no issues so far...

All i gotta do is reach up there with the car lifted off the ground a little bit..

honestly Paul I think you'd be better off figuring out a way to make the under tray come off easier... I was thinking about installing some studs and putting wing nuts on there, or something like that.. Im sure theres some sort of "quick connect" fastner out there that you could put in the OEM mounting holes

I physically cannot put my undershield back on because so many of the screws have rusted and broken off in their holes.

qship96
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Drill out the old bolts and retap the threads- been there done that! I have considered epoxying super strong button magnets to the plastic shield and eliminating the bolts completely- just too late in the game to worry about it.

NightRiderQ45
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Changing oil filter from the top...oh no!!!!!!!!!!! Your car will explode by this deadly sin lol I change mine from the top all the time and I do this WITH the maf connector still in place (last two oci's)

Another subject...Qship, how much did you pay in labor for your mechanic to change your tension rod bushings? I couldn't find your old thread. NTB wants to charge me $120 in labor (1.4hrs). They also said that I needed an alignment afterwards ($80). $200 total, didn't think it would cost that much but I do think that my car would need a new alignment after they press the old bushings out.

qship96
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I think my guy charged .60 hours labor total to press in/out old tension rod bushings on his press, only took him 10 minutes per side to complete job after car was placed on lift. I cant see why you would need to align afterwards as tension rods only affect castor, which is not even adjustable on our cars without going to an aftermarket adjustable tension rod!!!! I watched him do the job, and the press made the job super easy,taking about 1 minute to press out old and press in new bushing, they came right out, even after being in there for 100,000 miles!!!

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Infinitiguy19
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:Another subject...Qship, how much did you pay in labor for your mechanic to change your tension rod bushings? I couldn't find your old thread. NTB wants to charge me $120 in labor (1.4hrs). They also said that I needed an alignment afterwards ($80). $200 total, didn't think it would cost that much but I do think that my car would need a new alignment after they press the old bushings out.
NTB paid for a new under engine cover for me, due to their "quality work". The cover cam flying off on the highway, Luckily there was no damage to any other part of the car.

First and last time I go there.
MinisterofDOOM wrote:BEST thing I ever did to simplify/speed up oil change process on the Q was buy one of these:



Go up around the inside of the filter and, while you don't have a lot of room to move, the wrench lets you make the most of it. MUCH easier to maneuver in the cramped space than the common band style filter wrenches. Just don't bite to hard when using it on your fresh filter.

My first few oil changes with the Q took forever. These days I can have the whole job done in under 15 minutes.
I just might get one of those and a lot of brake parts cleaner.
qship96 wrote:Drill out the old bolts and retap the threads- been there done that! I have considered epoxying super strong button magnets to the plastic shield and eliminating the bolts completely- just too late in the game to worry about it.
I have some rusted bolts that I need to drill out too. I plan on replacing them with stainless steel or self tapping ones.

But I would not trust magnets to do the job of a screw.

NightRiderQ45
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qship96 wrote:I think my guy charged .60 hours labor total to press in/out old tension rod bushings on his press, only took him 10 minutes per side to complete job after car was placed on lift. I cant see why you would need to align afterwards as tension rods only affect castor, which is not even adjustable on our cars without going to an aftermarket adjustable tension rod!!!! I watched him do the job, and the press made the job super easy,taking about 1 minute to press out old and press in new bushing, they came right out, even after being in there for 100,000 miles!!!
Ok, I will not do the alignment then especially if you didn't do this on your car after replacement. I'll go by another place to see if they can do this job. Do you remember how much you actually paid? I'm guessing $120 isn't a total rip off.

qship96
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Just looked at my receipt, he charged me .8 hours { not .6 like I originally posted} to swap the tension rod bushings, so .8 x $75 = $60 total for the pair- not bad for something that lasts 100,000 miles

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Infinitiguy19
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Yet another failed idea....The FGY33 oil catch plate will not fit just from looking at the picture in Nissan FAST. I am talking about mounting the FGY33 oil filter mount with the little catch plate.

So this would have to be custom made and I don't have the time for this right now. As you can see I have a ton on my plate:

Rear door speakers (Heywier427 already thought up the idea).Rear face vent from the JDM Q45.Power folding heated mirrors from the Nissan President.Rear air purifier from either JDM Q45 or Nissan PresidentPossibly JDM headlightsDefinatly IMPUL front bumper at least.2000 Q45 Rear shock tower bar.2000 Q45 rear sun shadeJDM Q45 Infiniti tools with tool box.JDM Q45 or Nissan president Power jack (For chaging tire)1994 Q45 heated seats.Light up infiniti logo on the belt buckleJ30 Key less entry systemFGY33 steering wheel mounted radio controlsCabin air filterFGY33 rear spoilerInfiniti Essence belt buckleAdd a oil catch can

And the above are just side projects on top of maintenance.

NightRiderQ45
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qship96 wrote:Just looked at my receipt, he charged me .8 hours { not .6 like I originally posted} to swap the tension rod bushings, so .8 x $75 = $60 total for the pair- not bad for something that lasts 100,000 miles
$60 vs $120...wtf! Yep I will be getting alt prices. Paul...yep, gotta luv the oil catch!

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Paul Wall wrote:As you can see I have a ton on my plate:

Rear door speakers (Heywier427 already thought up the idea).Rear face vent from the JDM Q45.Power folding heated mirrors from the Nissan President.Rear air purifier from either JDM Q45 or Nissan PresidentPossibly JDM headlightsDefinatly IMPUL front bumper at least.2000 Q45 Rear shock tower bar.2000 Q45 rear sun shadeJDM Q45 Infiniti tools with tool box.JDM Q45 or Nissan president Power jack (For chaging tire)1994 Q45 heated seats.Light up infiniti logo on the belt buckleJ30 Key less entry systemFGY33 steering wheel mounted radio controlsCabin air filterFGY33 rear spoilerInfiniti Essence belt buckleAdd a oil catch can
Sooooo Stop typing and hurry up!! I want over half of those things!!

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Infinitiguy19
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I bet you don't.

But if you do I demand pictures.

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Infinitiguy19
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Well I just changed the oil on my Q today FROM THE BOTTOM. I have a friend who lent me his lift for a hour... I have changed the oil from the top (Removed the MAF sensor, Airbox...). And changed it from the bottom (Removing the skid plate) I still think the top side oil change is the way to go. As far as getting to the oil filter, But it has been a couple of months since the top side oil change (In the rain).

I did notice that the Q has a shield that protects the power steering belt from getting hit with oil stuck in the filter. But still oil got everywhere else.

I will be opening up my M1-208 (Mobil One oil filter) to see whats in there. Then I plan to stretch the filter element and examine it under a microscope. Just kidding about the last part!

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I use a hybrid approach to keep the driveway mess to a minimum.

I would like to have some winged bolts for the under engine cover -- but a nut driver works fine for now.

1) Pela 6000 to extract most of the pan oil. It reduces the amount of oil to drain into a pan that could end up splashing on the driveway. The pump also works for extracting transmission fluid and engine coolant.

2) A forged metal filter tool from NAPA to break the old filter loose from underneath using a rachet. No luck here with a plastic or tin tool from big box discount stores.

3) Once the filter is loose enough to be removed by hand, wrap the filter with a Ziploc bag to significantly reduce the amount of oil that drips on other engine components and the driveway.

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qship96
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I pay my Infiniti master tech $15 to change my oil/filter that I choose and supply to him every 3 months- no mess and more importantly gives him the opportunity to check car front to back for developing issues and worn parts. A big benefit is it also makes me a "regular" customer for minimal $$$ that allows for a relationship to be built that benefits both of us in many ways.

OwnerCS
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qship96 wrote:A big benefit is it also makes me a "regular" customer for minimal $$$ that allows for a relationship to be built that benefits both of us in many ways.
That benefit can be priceless..


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