I totally agree and understand with what your saying. But I have tried everyone that is local to me. But like its been said "Senior Infiniti Techs are rare!!!" I have yet to find someone who understands the car as much as I do let alone knows more than I do that is also local. I also know that people won't stay in business long if they focus on one brand let alone a single car.qship96 wrote:The reason for changing the filter from the bottom{while car is on a lift} is not only to protect the maf from un-needed movement, but also to be able to use a can of brake cleaner to mop up the spilled oil from removing the filter!!!! Also gives you the ability to do a complete under car inspection.
How does it spill on the under engine tray when it is several feet away after it has been removed? Most "reputable shops" have a telescoping drain pan that fits underneath the oil filter mount to prevent oil from flowing forward to power steering hoses.Paul Wall wrote:But I did notice that once the filter is removed or even loosened the oil spills on the power steering hose, plastic under engine sheild..... Now there is no way to prevent this whether it be having it done at a reputable shop/dealer or doing it your self.
I used to have that fear when I trusted "Reputable shop".maxnix wrote:Be certain car is on the lift horizontally and not nose down vertically.
This really isn't rocket science.
Since Nissan quit manufacturing the real VH45DE oil filters, they have specified since the inadequate VQ30DE filter.Paul Wall wrote:Case in point Kelly Infiniti wants $40 for a oil change with BULK oil and a OEM VH45DE killing filter.
Very True, unfortunately where I live even the Auto Zone is made out of gold because they charge $13 for the Mobil one filter.maxnix wrote:Since Nissan quit manufacturing the real VH45DE oil filters, they have specified since the inadequate VQ30DE filter.
Buy M1 filters for cheap from Joe, or be very careful which brand you choose. There was a link to an excellent oil filter test posted by Q45tech a couple of years ago.
NTB paid for a new under engine cover for me, due to their "quality work". The cover cam flying off on the highway, Luckily there was no damage to any other part of the car.NightRiderQ45 wrote:Another subject...Qship, how much did you pay in labor for your mechanic to change your tension rod bushings? I couldn't find your old thread. NTB wants to charge me $120 in labor (1.4hrs). They also said that I needed an alignment afterwards ($80). $200 total, didn't think it would cost that much but I do think that my car would need a new alignment after they press the old bushings out.
I just might get one of those and a lot of brake parts cleaner.MinisterofDOOM wrote:BEST thing I ever did to simplify/speed up oil change process on the Q was buy one of these:
Go up around the inside of the filter and, while you don't have a lot of room to move, the wrench lets you make the most of it. MUCH easier to maneuver in the cramped space than the common band style filter wrenches. Just don't bite to hard when using it on your fresh filter.
My first few oil changes with the Q took forever. These days I can have the whole job done in under 15 minutes.
I have some rusted bolts that I need to drill out too. I plan on replacing them with stainless steel or self tapping ones.qship96 wrote:Drill out the old bolts and retap the threads- been there done that! I have considered epoxying super strong button magnets to the plastic shield and eliminating the bolts completely- just too late in the game to worry about it.
Ok, I will not do the alignment then especially if you didn't do this on your car after replacement. I'll go by another place to see if they can do this job. Do you remember how much you actually paid? I'm guessing $120 isn't a total rip off.qship96 wrote:I think my guy charged .60 hours labor total to press in/out old tension rod bushings on his press, only took him 10 minutes per side to complete job after car was placed on lift. I cant see why you would need to align afterwards as tension rods only affect castor, which is not even adjustable on our cars without going to an aftermarket adjustable tension rod!!!! I watched him do the job, and the press made the job super easy,taking about 1 minute to press out old and press in new bushing, they came right out, even after being in there for 100,000 miles!!!
$60 vs $120...wtf! Yep I will be getting alt prices. Paul...yep, gotta luv the oil catch!qship96 wrote:Just looked at my receipt, he charged me .8 hours { not .6 like I originally posted} to swap the tension rod bushings, so .8 x $75 = $60 total for the pair- not bad for something that lasts 100,000 miles
Sooooo Stop typing and hurry up!! I want over half of those things!!Paul Wall wrote:As you can see I have a ton on my plate:
Rear door speakers (Heywier427 already thought up the idea).Rear face vent from the JDM Q45.Power folding heated mirrors from the Nissan President.Rear air purifier from either JDM Q45 or Nissan PresidentPossibly JDM headlightsDefinatly IMPUL front bumper at least.2000 Q45 Rear shock tower bar.2000 Q45 rear sun shadeJDM Q45 Infiniti tools with tool box.JDM Q45 or Nissan president Power jack (For chaging tire)1994 Q45 heated seats.Light up infiniti logo on the belt buckleJ30 Key less entry systemFGY33 steering wheel mounted radio controlsCabin air filterFGY33 rear spoilerInfiniti Essence belt buckleAdd a oil catch can



That benefit can be priceless..qship96 wrote:A big benefit is it also makes me a "regular" customer for minimal $$$ that allows for a relationship to be built that benefits both of us in many ways.