Water Spots in Paint :( - ideas?

[i30daretodif]

I have a Dark Green '96 I30 that unfortunately hasnt seen much love recently on the outside (although it still looks pretty good when washed)... The main problem is water spots. I tried the clay bar, and some McGuires Cleaner/Wax, but they either require A LOT of elbow grease, or dont really work.. Anyone have a suggestion for getting these spots out so I can put some wax over it (like I should have done a while back!)?

any ideas would be appreciated.

[dougs98Q45]

I know you clayed it but did you use a kitchen dish soap (Dawn) w/ the wash to make sure you got any remaining wax off? Probably only stating the obvious but just making sure you don't have regular, easy to remove water spots trapped under some wax residue..... Just a thought!

[dougs98Q45]

Oh wait- missed the cleaner wax- nevermind!

[AZhitman]

Clay bar WORKS, and works well.

Wash first with Dawn (don't use any other product). Rinse well, and dry thoroughly. Clay bar (as directed), then follow up with a REAL product like zaino. Nothing else is worth a crap compared to Zaino (even the high-dollar waxes). If you find something easier to apply that protects as well, reflects as well, and lasts as long, I'll sign the title to my car over to you - That's how good the stuff is.

http://www.zainobros.com

[G8R45]

I use Zaino exclusively. Their clay bar took all water spots off my cars in the past. I agree that it is a superior product.

[j30t]

you dont have to use dawn soap..just use something with the same active ingredients.

[j30t]

found this info at bimmerforums http://www.corrosionx.com/arti...r.pdf Its called rejex but im not sure how well it compares to zaino.

[99q45t_vl]

Azhitman, I'm using #885 Heavy Duty Fleetwax Paste Collinite wax which is comparable to Zaino :-)

http://www.thebestwax.com/collinitemarine.htm#885

[j30t]

zaino, collinite, and that rejex stuff seem to be the same type of wax.

[AZhitman]

I'm not familiar with that product. However, Zaino is NOT a wax.

Bugatti owners club, Vette Club of America, NSX club, Jag Owners Club, RollsRoyce club, all endorse Zaino... That's good enough for me.

I spent over an hour on the phone speaking with the inventor of Zaino (Sal is cool as hell, and loves talking to customers).

[maxnix]

One should use a soap as opposed to a detergent to wash your car, or woolens or silk, for that matter.

[AZhitman]

The Dawn recommendation is for removing ALL traces of wax residue (wax is not optically clear and dulls your color) before you apply a protectant like Zaino.

Subsequent washing needs to be done with a gentler product.

[GatorS14]

just dry it off afyer you wash it.(with a towel)

[99QX4]

If the water spots are that bad, they may have to be buffed out. Too bad your not around here, i have a detail shop and could help you out. I'd give u a special NICO discount!:D

[zinkie13]

3m 1500 grit will normally do the trick. It will buff out just about anything in the clear coat. I used it on my entire car and it gave me the look of a brand new paint job. It basically buffs off the tops layer of the clear coat. After you used that then just put a cleaner wax and finishing wax on it. Should do the trick

[msscomm]

3m 1500 grit will normally do the trick.

WARNING WILL ROBINSON - DANGER ! ! ! ! ! ! !

"Color" sanding is basically prepping the paint for further finishing operations and it requires some smarts, some help or good ole’ luck to not require professional help to ressurect botched attempts !

My experts go w/ 2000 grit using copious amounts of water to flush off sanding grit/abraded paint and the use of water actually provides an even finer grit as well as minimizing heat - using as rough a grit as 1500 or less just means more work ahead, and one hell of a lot more potential to screw up - i.e. - cut through corners/edges, sand cross directionally, put deep scratches in your finish . . . Again, help is recommended, or practice on a hood from a heap.

IF your paint layers are damn good under the clear coat - the color sanding puts a fine scratch pattern on the clear layer that will be further abraded/polished with cutters/polishers/buffing materials - the polishing continues to put a finer scratch pattern onto the surface until we can’t discern the finest of scratch patterns visually and a swirl remover/glaze/wax gives that glossy deep reflective finish we all crave. While DIYers can get some really professional results, first timers should seriously try to read up and learn, spend some time w/the pros, or check into what just a few $100 can get from a pro shop - It IS an amazing education to spend time w/finishing pros that get >$20K/job for their expertise, and talk with formulating chemists about what the pros request and use - DIYers can do pretty well for themselves if they go slowly on the learning curve, but contrast DIY costs w/$600 gal costs of professional materials, equipment costs and the years of learning why, how, and with what -

Working on a finish can be an amazingly satisfying experience and time well spent, but as always, the real work is in the prep, and learning and asking beforehand is the cheapest way to get to where you are trying to go -

Color - Clear Coat can be really forgiving - I’ve had real scratches (not through the color, just into the clear) completely removed by my detailer and his trusty buffer/compounds - more then I was willing to attempt as a neophyte - talk to several pro shops and get a couple of opinions about your spotting, it might prove to be the cheapest route and the best use of your time if someone can fit your work in, or tell you what you are looking at on the homefront.

[blackJ30T]

Water spots contain no water. They are usually calcium carbonate. If you are so desperate that you are at the buffing stage, try a little "lime away" first. Wash off promptly. If the residue is spots and not etching, the acid will convert the calcium carbonate into carbon dioxide and calcium in solution. This results in foam, like mixing vinegar and baking soda. Once the precipitate has been removed with the acid, buffing the etching out should be much easier. I do this for my boat and it seems to help.

[SOCAL91Q45a]

Sanding with 1500 is not a recommendation Id give ..... Having just color sanded a 1991 Mustang Gt due to a poor Orange Peeled Paint job ... I can assure you - some of the best 3m polishing compounds with Schlegel Wool pads on a Makita High Speed polisher didnt remove some [alot] of the sand scratches, and that was on single stage enamel. That would be murder on a 2 stage paint, especially a dark color.

Very careful, and very meticulous ultra WET and light sanding with 2000 or finer ... maybe. If the CLAY isnt doing the deal [suprising ...] Find the local Paint Store where the body shops get their materials, and ask them for some 3m Rubbing compound and 3m Stage III Finese It. It works decent by hand, but polisher is best.

If you thought the CLAY was a PITA ...... LOL

May the force be with you ......