Water pump changed for J30t vs. prices

[jasonsos]

The first mechanic I called, I have delt with in the past who repaired my Jeep Comanche and Cheorkee. He said that he couldn't even get around to it for two weeks, but then I asked him to give me a quote. I said he would have to call me back but that the labor alone was $280.00, with the water pump and belt an extra $107.00.I then called another local mechanic my sister and Aunt had delt with of whom they were VERY happy with. He said he could start on it by next Thursday (The water pump started to leak and make bearing sounds on this past Friday). I didn't drive the J30 except a few blocks to get cagarettes a couple of times over the weekend). He gave me a quote of $400.00 for labor alone. I thought, based upon Jeep repairs and having changed many water pumps in my younger years, wow, that's some money for a water pump!I then called the two major dealers in the Dallas/Ft. Worth areas. The first one gave me a quote of $725.00, just to change the water pump, although he mentioned that if you changed the water pump on J30s, you HAD to also change the timing belt and several oil seals, which would cost an additional $200.00, or, $925.00 total. The 2nd dealer told me the same thing but added that all the belts had to be changed along with the seals. Both dealers are 30 odd miles away with the former quoting me $1,200.00 total, and he could fix it in one day--next week.Of course, I have no 2nd car, so my need is (was) great.The 1st local guy called me back saying that he was told the water pump could be one of three different types of pumps and that he would have to take the old one out just to see which pump would fit. He's also the one that said he couldn't even start on it until the next Thursday, being Monday the 28th the day I called.With all of this, I went to the local guy who said he could start on Thursday, take the old one out, order the new one (not rebuilt) and have it finished by Friday evening, which he did. Total cost: $387.00, and he even fixed a few things he didn't have to, like when the dealer didn't replace the bolts in the shield the last time the pump was changed by putting new ones in--free, and he adjusted the door that was a bit hard to close.This is in a small town in Texas with no Nissan dealers and was only 2 miles from my house, so I could drive it there without worries of over heating and being stranded.Was this a GREAT deal?* Only problem now that I paid him and drove home, the noise of a bearing going bad remains. I called him and he said not to worry, that it was the a/c compressor making a 'fibration' noise and that it wouldn't fail, just live with the noise and don't worry about it.SHOULD I BE WORRIED?Many thanks to you all.Jason

[yodawill2000]

You sure its not the timing belt tension pully bearing ?That would be something to worry about.

[95-J30tt]

where is the noise coming from exactly, can you locate the noise area??

[jasonsos]

Thanks for your post. I am grateful.No, it was the water pump all right, and also the belt was just about gone.The repairman told me that there 'might' be a 'vibration' sound coming frm the a/c compressor. It did have that noise the day I picked it up (Saturday) but yesterday and last night; it was gone.The engine sounds good with much power. It was the dealer who stated that the timing belt MUST be changed when the water pump is changed, which I why I mentioned the timing. It was in good shape as it tunred out.The 'vibrating noise sounded like just that: something was vibrating, but now is gone.ThanksJasonsos

[jasonsos]

Thanks for your post, Yodawill.No, the timing bearing was all right. The water pump bearing was sounding like a grinding noise then a kind of clanging sound now and then with the anti-freeze dripping then, once the engine was shut off; the anti-freeze came out just under the water pump in a stream. No leaks at all now. Since repaired, he said that the 'vibrating noise' was coming from the a/c compressor. I asked if it was going bad, he said no, that it was just a vibration and might even go away in a few days. It did. I heard it when I picked it up on Saturday afternoon and that night, then again on Sunday, but by last night (Monday) that sound was gone.That's one thin I don't get: why did he say it was just a vibration sound and it would go away--when it did?Thanks for your post.Jasonsos

[Gumby1]

I have a leaking water pump so I looked up the repair procedure today.

$180 list for a new pump, $60 for the belt. 4.4 hours to change it, so under $500 is a good deal. Some places want to put a new adjuster in and new idlers every time. The adjuster is $422 list. Each of the idlers is over $100 and there are three of them.

I can see a big bill from a dealer and I can see a local guy doing it cheap.

[iwanna08J]

Water pump issues with the J30I had lots of problems with the changing of the water pump. I am a pretty car savy guy, but that was one of the hardest water pump installs of my life. You have to pretty much take off the front of the motor (including the timing belt cover) just to get to the thing. I went through 3 water pumps from advanced auto because all of them broke! In fact one of the shafts (forged steal) snapped at 4000 rpms and whole assembley put a hole in the radiator. So, one new OEM water pump, a clutch fan, and a radiator later, it was fixed. If you think that sounds like a nightmare changing the spark pluge requires nearly a weekend. The J30 is a wonderfully engineered car, besides the electrical system, but I found the flaw. The entire clutch fan assembly sticks out 8 inches from the base of the water pump, they are made to break. My best advice with owning a J30 is always go OEM because it will cost you infiniti money if you dont.

[VG30DE]

Yes OEM...

OEM...

OEM!!!

Or just plan on purchasing and installing some Advance Auto Parts yearly!

[eergsxr]

[QUOTEIf you think that sounds like a nightmare changing the spark pluge requires nearly a weekend. [/QUOTE]

i just changed my plugs in 30 minutes the only thing you need is to take off the center cover and remove the coil packs and your plugs are right there, for the back plugs a u-joint makes it a little easier

[brandonjustice93J30]

you dont even have to remove the center cover...I just unbolt the bolts holding in the coils, loosen the plugs, use a coat hanger piece bent to grab the tip and pull...about 20 mins later all six are out and back in. ...In fact I find them easier to change, despite the removal process, than my transverse v6's in my old grandam and cutlass that you had to reach behind the engine to change the back 3. I almost fine the J30 as easy as my spyder was and they were directly on top.

[brandonjustice93J30]

and iwanna08J, I see you're in Greenwood....that's where I currently reside, small world in this forum...

...and by the way guys...when the next meet this year...I know there was one last year at Great Times and I missed it