i got a chance to look over a setup on a TSI the other night and it really got me interested. is anyone here running water injection? any thoughts on the idea...i have alot of research to do, but id like to consider it for my car.
SS
water injection?
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Secret squirrel
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89'ClubK's
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Re: water injection? (Secret squirrel)
I hear it can be very dangerous if the mixure isn't right. You do gain a little bit, but the risk may not be worth it.
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r34 gtr
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im a fan. use it to drop your intake temp and get rid of knock. ive heard plenty of ways to build a setup yourself, but i think the safest option would (if you have the cash) be to buy yourself an aquamist 2 setup. they arent incredibly expensive, but its not really cheap either. 350 bucks i think, feel free to correct me.
i know of plenty of people using them. heard no complaints. i actually know of some volvo 850s that use several.
- tim
i know of plenty of people using them. heard no complaints. i actually know of some volvo 850s that use several.
- tim
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BACARDI_DWB
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Proven technology.
Alchahol (iso iirc, like rubbing alchahol) will cool better than H2O, but the pure stuff costs like $7+/gal. And you need the pure stuff, rubbing alchy has too many addatives and isn't good for your engine. Much like you should use distilled water without addatives (like in your coolant system). But heres the good stuff - blue windshield washer fluid works perfect and is cheap - usually cheaper than both the alchy OR the water . The fluid is like 49.5% pure water, 49.5% alchy, and 1% blue color that doesn't hurt your engine.
Theres a couple ways to plumb it - before the turbo, before the IC, and before the TB. I personally prefer before the TB, but thats me. Before the turbo cools the intake, but theres rumors that the water will tear up the turbo's wheel fins. Plus, compressing air creates heat so its far more efficient to cool the intake charge AFTER its compressed X degrees than to cool the intake before its compressed the same X degees (which leads to a smaller post turbo cool off)After the turbo but before the IC is a good place - HOWEVER water can pool in the bottom of the IC causing potential corrosion problems - the only problem with that setup.After the IC and before the TB solves the problem of pooling, but if your system fails, hello hydrolock!
On one of the turbo buick boards theres a full forum dedicated to water injection
Alchahol (iso iirc, like rubbing alchahol) will cool better than H2O, but the pure stuff costs like $7+/gal. And you need the pure stuff, rubbing alchy has too many addatives and isn't good for your engine. Much like you should use distilled water without addatives (like in your coolant system). But heres the good stuff - blue windshield washer fluid works perfect and is cheap - usually cheaper than both the alchy OR the water . The fluid is like 49.5% pure water, 49.5% alchy, and 1% blue color that doesn't hurt your engine.
Theres a couple ways to plumb it - before the turbo, before the IC, and before the TB. I personally prefer before the TB, but thats me. Before the turbo cools the intake, but theres rumors that the water will tear up the turbo's wheel fins. Plus, compressing air creates heat so its far more efficient to cool the intake charge AFTER its compressed X degrees than to cool the intake before its compressed the same X degees (which leads to a smaller post turbo cool off)After the turbo but before the IC is a good place - HOWEVER water can pool in the bottom of the IC causing potential corrosion problems - the only problem with that setup.After the IC and before the TB solves the problem of pooling, but if your system fails, hello hydrolock!
On one of the turbo buick boards theres a full forum dedicated to water injection
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float_6969
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Water injection is by no means a new technology. It has been used since the second world war on fighter planes. Back in the 30's there was extensive research done proving it's potential. It is almost standard equipment on WRC cars.
Alcohol DOESN'T cool better than Water. Off the top of my head, I think Water's Specific Heat is twice that of Alcohol. The alcohol is generally used for three purposes. It can be treated as an extra mean of injecting fuel, it prevents the water from freezing in cold temperatures, and during combustion it helps the fuel combust at a more even rate.
Remember that water injection doesn't increase octane. It lowers intake temperatures. This by itself doesn't increase power. It DOES decrease the likelyhood of detonation, and it DOES allow the computer to run the optimal timing, therefore making more power. The same effect could be had from high octane race gas, but it is MUCH more cost effective.
And YES you can use plain old blue windsheild washer fluid. (get the cheap stuff as it generally has the fewest number of chemicals in it) The BEST gains would actually be had from straight water. To increase it's effectiveness even more, you can lower the waters temp via the addition of ice, and increase the effeciency of the system over 100%.
As far as placement of the nozzle, the standard rule today is after the intercooler, but as far away from the TB as possible. It is most commonly placed in the collector on the cold side of the intercooler. As was previously stated, the other placement options have some drawbacks, where as this has none, as long as you use a good check valve, or solenoid, which should probabally be used regardless.
My personal fav, and the system I intend to run;http://www.coolingmist.com
Alcohol DOESN'T cool better than Water. Off the top of my head, I think Water's Specific Heat is twice that of Alcohol. The alcohol is generally used for three purposes. It can be treated as an extra mean of injecting fuel, it prevents the water from freezing in cold temperatures, and during combustion it helps the fuel combust at a more even rate.
Remember that water injection doesn't increase octane. It lowers intake temperatures. This by itself doesn't increase power. It DOES decrease the likelyhood of detonation, and it DOES allow the computer to run the optimal timing, therefore making more power. The same effect could be had from high octane race gas, but it is MUCH more cost effective.
And YES you can use plain old blue windsheild washer fluid. (get the cheap stuff as it generally has the fewest number of chemicals in it) The BEST gains would actually be had from straight water. To increase it's effectiveness even more, you can lower the waters temp via the addition of ice, and increase the effeciency of the system over 100%.
As far as placement of the nozzle, the standard rule today is after the intercooler, but as far away from the TB as possible. It is most commonly placed in the collector on the cold side of the intercooler. As was previously stated, the other placement options have some drawbacks, where as this has none, as long as you use a good check valve, or solenoid, which should probabally be used regardless.
My personal fav, and the system I intend to run;http://www.coolingmist.com
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Secret squirrel
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the guy i talked to was runnig it an a tsi.
he used a bottle of windshield washer fluid cut with a bottle of ISO heat to make a 50/50 mix of water to methanol.
he told me that it has taken care of ANY knock he was having before. His setup he ran it about 6-8 inches from the TB. Water cools charge air, and methanol helps with combustion. he also had a progressive controller that would inject the mixture only when he was at or above 10psi of boost, there for preventing the mixture from snuffin the engin at lunch
SS
he used a bottle of windshield washer fluid cut with a bottle of ISO heat to make a 50/50 mix of water to methanol.
he told me that it has taken care of ANY knock he was having before. His setup he ran it about 6-8 inches from the TB. Water cools charge air, and methanol helps with combustion. he also had a progressive controller that would inject the mixture only when he was at or above 10psi of boost, there for preventing the mixture from snuffin the engin at lunch
SS