First I used some citrus-based degreaser, then an abrasive pad to get rid of all the dirt ground in, and then I painted it with aluminum cast finish. Makes aluminum parts look brand new.Turbogixxer wrote:Very nice, what did you use to clean it?
ahhh, I was going to say you painted it, but you taped it off so good, so no over spray. Congrats.c-rad wrote:
First I used some citrus-based degreaser, then an abrasive pad to get rid of all the dirt ground in, and then I painted it with aluminum cast finish. Makes aluminum parts look brand new.
LOL, actually, I stripped the manifold bare... there were no sensors or anything attached. I am actually going to do sort of a hack job on it by leaving off the butterfly actuator and JB welding the rod in place so it doesn't move.Turbogixxer wrote:ahhh, I was going to say you painted it, but you taped it off so good, so no over spray. Congrats.
I know....but I am trying to remove as much unnecessary stuff as possible. I hate clutter. I assume those two coolant ports on the end are just to heat up the air on a cold start? If so, those will just be left disconnected as well.float_6969 wrote:You dolt, just leave it in place. It defaults open. It won't shut unless you put vac. to it!
How do those have anything to do with the water lines to the turbo???float_6969 wrote:No, you need to hook that up properly. Those are for the turbo. If you don't hook them up right, the turbo won't cool itself like it should after you shut it off.
Hmm....my motor didn't come with that line... Looks like I will using the turbo timer.NeedCAforS13 wrote:those two go to the coolant lines to the turbo... they wrap around the back of the head and go into the turbo. Its odd, but its true.
Sean
I don't know. There was a banjo line coming off the block that was cut and crimped. And there was what looked like a 'plug' a couple inches under it. You can see here in this pic what I am talking about....NeedCAforS13 wrote:where do your coolant lines go from the turbo?
Sean
Yeah, I know how a water-cooled turbo works.float_6969 wrote:And the way that this system works is that it helps the turbo to cool even more, than idleing it would. The coolant acts as a heat sink and works off of convection currents. As the coolant in the turbo housing heats up, it rises up to the back of the manifold (where the manifold acts as a heat sink for the coolant to pull the heat off of the coolant). As the hot coolant rises up the tubing, cooler coolant is drawn up behind it, which is heated, drawing heat away from the turbo, and the oil inside of the turbo. It's a very simple, but effective way to take one more step to preventing oil coking and damage to the turbo.
Yeah, I don't have the lines....period. I think I may just block them off now while I am using the T25, but when I upgrade the turbo, I'll make some SS lines with some -AN fittings.float_6969 wrote:Sean, I think he's only got one set of banjo fittings. It sounds like he's only got the feed side, and even that one is cut off and crimped.
Chris, I would still try and hook it up. You can get a set of stainless steel lines for the SR and they'll work just fine. If you do decide to ditch it, then you can just plug off the hole where the upper bolt is at in your picture. I would leave the "elbow" alone. I seriously thought mine was going to break off in the block when I was taking it off, and I don't think I'll ever mess with it again. There is also a small coolant line under the manifold, in the back, that you'll have to plug off too.