WARPSPEED Y-Pipe Install Problem....

[NewfoundlandDude]

My exhaust was pretty rusted when I started the install, but I eventually got the bolts cut from the catalytic converter, and re-pinned it. I cut the heat shields off, then got the bolts off that connect to the front pre-cat, and loostened all other bolts that hold the pipe up there.

My problem came when I tried to take the nuts that connect the up-part of the pipe to the rear headers I guess. I got one off, but the other two nuts were so rusted that I couldn't get a socket to grip them. It looked like the bolts that the nuts were on actually came from the header, and obviously can't be cut off. Am I right in this assumption? How am I going to be able to get these off without messing up the bolts to my header, and get the Warpspeed pipe on my car???

Here's a crappy paint-sketch to explain what i'm talking about....



Modified by NewfoundlandDude at 6:45 PM 7/17/2007
Modified by NewfoundlandDude at 6:45 PM 7/17/2007

[maxhopper]

There are two ways you can go with this problem. You can use a penetrant like PB Blaster. Or you can try using a torch to heat the nuts and see if they will come out.

[NewfoundlandDude]

Sorry, by not gripping I meant that the nuts are stripping as I try to turn them. They are already sprayed with a penetrant, Is there something that I can get to fit stubborn nuts, and fit up there?

[maxhopper]

Sorry, try the Crafstam Bolt-Out.http://www0.epinions.com/content_120728161924

[xerexabante]

cut they with a die grinder and get new bolts

[brianw]

Yep, cut 'em out, tap 'em out, install new studs.

Or take it to a shop to do it, unless you're working on a lift, it's kind of a pain in the butt.

[NewfoundlandDude]

Alright I got those out and got the Y on. When I loosened the bolts for the Pre-cat, 3 of the 5 snapped off....Lucky me. And the front O2 sensor had galled threads when it came out of the rusty stock Y-Pipe. You've got to love the east coast salty climate that just eats away at our cars out here.

I file'd some threads into the O2 sensor, and ended up getting it in about 2 turns (After about 2 hours of tedious threading). I also got 2 of the 5 bolts back into the top of the front pre-cat.

Will the 2 bolts hold for me, or am I going to have to get at my front header to cut and tap some more? Also, would it be a good idea to file off the threads of the O2 sensor and tack it into the pipe??? My buddy gets off work in about an hour and he said he'd tack it for me if I want.....

[brianw]

You probably want more bolts than that or else it'll leak. I would not tap the o2 sensor, as those are wear items and you will need to replace it someday (most o2 sensors tend to degrade gradually, but by 70k or 100k miles you'll want to replace it)-- I would buy a tap and die set and rethread it.

[NewfoundlandDude]

Any idea what the thread is on those things???

Also, how would I go about getting more bolts into the pre-cat???

[MaximA32]

They're studs not bolts. You'd have to pound them out and put new ones in.

[NewfoundlandDude]

Any Idea what thread the O2 Sensors are?

[MaximA32]

Not off the top of my head but i should be able to find out tomorrow.

[NewfoundlandDude]

That would be great. I spend most afternoons in a machine shop at the University now, so I should be able to grab a die if I know what one to look for.

[NewfoundlandDude]

I got the O2 sensor threaded and put in today. Lying on my back near a loading bay at the university while it down-poured, it never felt so good to get wet & cold, salvaging an O2 sensor. It was an 18M die if anyone is interested.

Back to the cracked bolts at the top of my pre-cat. 3 of 5 broke off, and apparently they are studs, not bolts. What is the easiest way to go about punching them out and replacing them? From the top (Engine bay) or the bottom (Below the pre-cat)?

I was under the impression that the Y-pipe would eliminate the front pre-cat, I guess it just eliminates the bank cat or whatever is in the stock Y-pipe. Can you replace the front pre-cat with a straight pipe, or would that just be stupid?

[NewfoundlandDude]

I have some pictures here of the top of the pre-cat and the manifold.There are 3 bolts cracked off, and threads can be seen right through the manifold, and continuing into the precat flange, but not through the pre-cat flange.

I want to know the easiest way to get these studs out (Top or Bottom), and how to go about it. There is an O2 sensor in the manifold, one in the precat, and another 2 in the Y-pipe that I have to worry about messing up the threads on.

Do these just punch out? Do I have to rotate them out? Should I take off the precat & Y, or should I try to remove the manifold (Scary with rusty bolts). Can it be done with everything on the car? Should I use a torch?.....Looking for some guidance here......

TOP



TOP



Under



Thanks in advance......

[brianw]

I would do it from the bottom, but that's just me.

I generally am able to use a special bolt-out tool ($20 or so for a complete set) from Sears/Craftsman to get 'em out.

Your car is pretty rusted, so I don't have good specific advice. Normally if it's that badly rusted I'll suck it up and pay a good muffler shop $50 to remove 'em and replace 'em with new ones. I don't mind dorking with crap like this, but if it's really, really bad then I'll save the 2 hours of laying on the ground and have a shop do it. :p