Truck cranks and warms up perfect. But about five or six miles, when it starts warming up. Things turn to death.
To find out, after changing filters in the pump, and the regular filter. I took off the air cleaner and looked at the carb.
Found that the "butterfly" was not working proper and is staying completely open, thus, making it get to much air.
What has all of the sudden caused this and what can I do to fix. I took a spring and connected it to be closed most of the way. But it makes the truck run extreamly to high for a idle.
All replies appreciated.

.......... two guns

Could you describe with more details how the truck runs prior to stalling? The upper butterfly is usually just the choke, which is usually wide open when warm anyway. Furthermore, the lower butterfly valve is the throttle, so unless your rpms are through the moon, you shouldn't be having a problem with the butterfly valves.

This initially sounds like an issue with your fuel mixture or a fuel pump issue. Simply changing filters won't solve a bad or worn-out pump.

I'd like some additional details before a speculate further though.

Cheers,
Peter

Definitely get that spring off the choke...

If it's acting up ONLY once it's warmed up, I'm thinking temp sensor.

petercscherer wrote:
This initially sounds like an issue with your fuel mixture or a fuel pump issue. Simply changing filters won't solve a bad or worn-out pump.

I'd like some additional details before a speculate further though.

Cheers,
Peter

I checked the fuel pump and pressure. It is fine. I changed out the filters just to get that out of the question.
Truck runs PERFECT, until it wams up. Then, something happens. It starts acting like it's starving for fuel. You pump the petal and it helps. But then it just dies. Then, it spins like it is not getting fuel or something. But it is getting all the fuel it needs. But after it cools back off. IT will crank right back up, until it warms up again.
Took off the air breather, plugged the vacuum lines. Cranked it up and the "choke" will be sticking stright up. But you pull it down with about a quarter inch from closing. And it runs good, but at real high idle.
When I put a spring on the choke to hold it partally closed. It ran good for over seven miles. From my sons home to mine.
Runs great like that, but can't get it to idle down with the idle screw on carb.
In the Chiltons book ( 8585) 52500. It shows TWO Settings, one on page 2-17 ( idle speed adjustments) and
another on page 5-8 ( fast idle adjustment ). I turned the screw just a little on the 2-17 page to idle up a fraction.
This just don't make sense. I know I need to take that spring off. But it was left on there to get my truck BACK to my place. Plans are to try to figure this out. Spring holding the choke flap almost closed is not the answer.....

AZhitman,
Yes, the spring is for sure coming off ...
That was there only to get me home.

.......... two guns

I had this same exact issue. I pump pressure was fine, but flow was restricted. I purged from carb all the way back into the tank with compressed air (removing the pump, of course) and hooked everything back up. Runs like a champ now.

This is what I've found. Don't think there is anything wrong witht he carb or the choke.
Got to be a fuel feed problem. Took the "spring" off and cranked it up. Run again, like a new machine. Drove it about
12 miles. Super ride, could not ask for better running. Then brought it home for about ten minutes. Cranked it up and ran for about 30 seconds and died. Spin the engine, it would fire up and run for about 15 seconds, with me pumping the pedal. This went on for about six cranks. Then got to thinking, this engine don't seem to be getting any fuel. So I took flashlight looked at glass in front of carb. Glass showed about 1/2 full. So decided to shoot a short shot of starting fluid into the air breather. Done that, engine started up and ran again until I put it up in the back shed. Now, to me, seems like it is loosing it's prime or just something. Wonder if these "fuel pumps" stop and go. For when I "HELPED" it with the
shot of starting fluid, it spun quickly as expected and run again like new. Could it be the relay going out? Or the pump.
But I have figured just becouse the glass has got half fuel in glass to show, don't mean it's going to run. For the whole time it runs, it has half level of fuel in the glass, and when it's not running, and just spinning over. It shows half full level of fuel in glass.
What is your idea on this ?

We blew back on the lines with massive air pressure. Disconnecting the pump and all first. Took off the gas cap to vent what air we blew threw it from the lines. Blew from filter back to the tank, and from carb to the pump. Just making sure there were a great passage of fuel that could flow correctly.
We put a fuel pressure gauge in-line. Tee'd off the main line and run a gauge around the truck bed and threw the back window. Ran the truck 11 miles. No problem.
Kept a constant 3.4 PSI on the gauge.
We cranked the truck up cold, the choke worked properly. It kicked back down properly.
Don't have a clue what is going on. Thinking now it just might be the fuel pump relay acting crazy. For one, it's a intermediate problem. Can't really pin=point when it's going to happen.
THEN, here it comes.
I took a peek at the relay. And on the very bottom corner of the relay. It was like
wet with some sort of oil or something. Just a small tiny drop. It looked like it came from out of the relay. I took a picture and will post if I can. There is NO WHERE that this tiny micro drop of wet/oil could have come from but inside the relay. Did not know there was any type of oil or something of that nature inside the relay. There is no doubt, it come from inside the relay. Now what it is, don't have a clue.

Melted relay? Not totally unheard of... Worth replacing it to see if it helps.

Sorta thinking what is going on. If I let my truck warm up really good. The "death syndrome" or just right out diying,
choking down, just don't seem to happen. But it seems to be, if it warms up to full engine temp, it goes on. Or it has ben the last few runs . Thinking if it has anything to do with the choke. If I disconnected the choke. What happens other than you would have to manually run the engine ?
..... two guns

My truck has been doing something very similar. Has any found a solution?

Just installed a fuel pump relay. Seems to work better. But have only had a chance to run it seven miles.

Plans are to run it on a longer run today, maybe about fifteen miles stopping and going. During my seven miles. Ran
pretty good. And when I got to where I was going, it died when I came to a stop, but cranked right back up. Think the
chock might be doing something to it. But about thirty minutes later. It cranked back up when I went to leave the coop.
So, that is not a really good test. I will keep updated !!!

Done put about 200 miles on this little monster, after both relays were installed. Problem the whole time was the Fuel Pump Relay.
Found out then the automatic choke relay was not working correctly. Replaced it. Runs like a brand new machine now.
Ran about three cans of Sea Foam threw the engine, just to clean out the fuel system.

Nice ill give this a try

............. well. The previous owner told me that the first day the truck come from the dealership. It NEVER would warm up. NEVER !!! Temp gauge would not move.
The truck actually was purchased from his father, who owned the truck a total of 7 monthes before his death in 1984. His son, who I got the truck from. Cherished this truck for it was his fathers.
So with me driving this machine, on the mornings at 4:00am, it's damn cold. So Thanksgiving day I spend my time going to see what the thermostat looked like. Guess what. The thermostat, from the factory, was stuck wide open. Faulty thermostat. No wonder it would never warm up. I have noticed that the engine seemed to always seem have a little weak spot in it on take off.
Well, replace the thermo with a 180 degree and you would not believe the performance this little engine has got. It perked up and goes without a miss. And I'm warm on the early morning runs now. All engines has to reach a certain temp to get All the performance and gain out of them.
While I was in the mood. I went ahead and changed the oil and filter. Used a WIX 51452 filter and replace the oil with
Rotella 15w-40. Rotella has a rated high level of zinc, with these flat tappets need that. Many of your "newer oils", they have just about taken out all the zinc. ........... Newer engines don't need this.
Look on the back of the oil bottles, - if it's rated SM, it'll have 800ppm of zinc..if it says CJ- 4, it'll have about 1200ppm of zinc..if it says CI - 4 , it'll have more than 1200, and would be considered a "high zinc" oil.

Zinc is an anti wear additive. Sulfur, and Phosphorus are as well.
My engine runs so quiet now.

.............. two guns

"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading"

Incredible thanks for the info i should be doing an oil change this week or next

I was having a similar issue. Engine kept dying and then wouldn't start. Then after a wile it would start and run again. it's was totally random. I ran thru all the usual suspects and came down to the fuel pump/emergency shutoff safety relay. To verify I made a small jumper cable with a couple of spade ends on it and waited till it wouldn't start (it wouldn't start of run because the float bowl was empty) and used the jumper to bypass the relay and directly power the pump. Wahlah. Pump worked and the engine ran. Got a new relay and life's been good since... Well maybe not so much but at least that issue never came back.

David