Want to fit stand alone management & 6 speed box to my ca18det powerd kit car!

[rossmac]

Hi, Im am a Newby here so be gentle, haha

I have just purchased a ca18det powered kit car and have a couple of questions,

The engine currently has phase 2 chips and a t28 turbo, boost is set at about 17 psi, and the engine is supposed to be producing approx 300 bhp

I have been looking through the threads about putting the mega squirt ecu on my engine,

Does anyone know what the benefits of this would be? And does/can anybody supply a fully working kit?

Would there be any power gain?

Is there a map similar to what I have at the moment that I would be able to use?

I am very interested in doing this as the wiring of the engine /car is an absolute mess at the moment and I want to start again,

Also is there anyway I could fit a 6 speed gearbox?

Any other information/ things to watch out for would be appreciated,

Thanks

[float_6969]

AFAIK, nobody sells an off-the-shelf kit specifically for the CA. I think it takes some work to get the megasquirt to work with the factory CAS, and since it tends to be failure prone, people tend towards ditching it.

300bhp with that setup is pretty normal and you probably won't gain a whole lot with a standalone. Do you guys have access to Ethanold bleneded fuels in the UK? Eg. E85 (85% ethanol, 15% petrolium) like we have here in the US? If so, then it's quite possible to get more power from it.

G/L with the 6 speed, you'd have to build an adapter plate to get any other transmission to work. The only off the shelf adapter plate that I know of is for the NA Z32 5spd transmission.

[croustibat]

a megasquirt will allow you to tune it better. You dont need this, so forget it.

the 6speed gearbox is also something you dont want to use as it will be hard to install (need to change flange and propshaft, and maybe the gear lever will not be at the same place) .

If you dont have a FMIC, install one, that will give you more power and reliability. And you WILL have around 300BHP with this setup, if you dont already have one then you should be around 260-280.

If you want more power, you need forged internals and a bigger turbo.

Or use e85 fuel, i use this in my french S13 (has ca18det on standard), once remapped you get between 10 and 20% more horsepower, but bigger injectors are needed (standard ones are long maxed out, and 440cc are also. Get 550cc from sard, nismo, rc engineering, they are good ones, forget venom).

Anyway, if you want something that will not beakdown fast, you need a FMIC, bigger injectors than standards and a new fuel pump.

you may add a wideband lambda sensor and gauge, it helps a lot to monitor and tune your engine. But if you really want to map you car by yourself, get a nistune, the standard ECU is capable of a lot of things.

[rossmac]

Thanks for your reply,Whats the factory CAS?What does removing it do/not do?

I dont really want the stand alone for gain, mainly to get rid of the shocking wiring

Unfortunatly the best fuel we have over here is 99 octane.

What would you reccomend i run the boost at?

I read somewhere that the 240sx 6 speed gearbox will fit ?

croustibat, it already has a FMIC

Not sure what injectors i have at the moment, any way to tell

I will look into getting a wide band sensor, is there any that you would reccomend?

Thanks again for your help,

Best Regards

Ross

[croustibat]

I dont understand your question about the CAS ? You means its setting ? If so, should be set to 15° before top. You can see it using the crank pulley and a strobe lamp, it should have a marking . Again, DONT touch this unless you really know what you are doing, there is a high risk of killing your engine if you fiddle with it, for no gain at all as you can set ignition timing on the ECU.

Also, dont change the ECU. You will have a hard time building then setting a megasquirt, if you dont fry it, or fry injectors and MAF on the way. Remember a megasquirt is a generic ECU, so you first have to build it and check if it is correctly built, then set it up for the kind of engine you use and check again, THEN only start setting every parameters. This is hard work, and errors may kill your engine.

Plus i dont think changing the ECU will thin the wiring. There are many wires because it has to control each coil and injector separately, mainly.

Now, talking about power. You have nearly maxed out the standard internals. I would not run over 17psi with a T28, nor with the standard rods and pistons. I would even not run more than 15psi on hard racing days. The T28 is at its maximum safe setting, same with your internals. It *could* handle more, yes. But it also *could* blow in a cloud of smoke, throwing its rods away.

I believe stage 2 is the setup for 440cc injectors, S14 MAF and T28 turbo with FMIC, so injectors are also near 80% duty cycle, wich you should not go over.

Why do you so badly want a 6 speed gearbox ? The 5th speed you have is sturdier, and will get you up to 270km/h, il you still have standard diff.

The 6th speed gearbox is longer, so you will need a shorter, custom built propshaft, and a plate in the front. I think you also need to change the flywheel and clutch for an S15 one. If it is just for showing off, just get the gear knob from a 6 speed gearbox If you want a proper racing gearbox, get one from PPG or OS giken. But price will certainely kill you. I just saw a fully rebuilt os giken gearbox (5 speed kit, input shaft, synchros etc...) on sxoc forums (uk), it sells for 2300£ + shipping. Worth 2000£ IMHO, but still, it is a change that WILL bring you better times.

No real advice on wideband sensors, it depends on what you are planning to do. I use a PLX system, as it autocalibrates, can log AFR and RPM to a serial interface, and can be daisy chained with other PLX modules to simplify wiring. And it is not too expensive

i dont like "everything is integrated into the cable" ones, as they dont like heat and decalibrates frequently (think it is uego or aem).

If you want more power and still be safe, you need :bigger turbo (GT2871R .64 is fine for 400-450HP, .84 is good for a little more)forged pistons & rodsthis will allow you to go up to 1.6-1.8 bar. My friend is running the .64 setup with e85 and a little work on the head (porting) , and get around 430HP at 1.6bar.

Add 260° 9.25mm tomei camshafts with vernier pulleys, solid lifters and springs, and you can rev it to 9000rpm safely. If you go this way, get the .84 gt2871r , the .64 will not be big enough to feed 1.6 bar up top 9000 .

Both of these will require bigger injectors (700-800cc) and at least a Z32 MAF . Higher applications will require an ECU with a MAP sensor, and the standard ECU will have a hard time anyway. But we are talking about 500+ HP here.

You can also go bigger, once internals are forged, they can withstand high pressure ( try looking for mobne 200sx on youtube, he gets 750WHP running 2.3 bar pressure, on a CA18DET) but bigger turbos start spooling at 4500+ rpm, and that sucks