Has anyone installed a larger battery? I would like to jam a size 24F instead of a 35 in her. The 24F is one inch longer than the OEM. The space appears to fit this, but without removing the battery I cannot be sure as it will be close. I guess I will get the dimensions and cut out a piece of card board as a template to check fitment.

What would be the reasoning behind this?

The group 24 are more common and typically cost less. Most Japanese cars use this battery. I have four vehicles with two currently using the size 24. If I can get the G to accept one as well then all the better. If I have to rescue someone in the family with a dead battery than I could borrow one from another car and know it will fit.

Seems easy enough to test fit one in a parking lot...and if it doesn't fit, return. In my 2005, I installed a yellow top Optima without any issues.

They listed 2 options for my G35 Coupe, the bigger one was cheaper, so got it and had no problems.

Weird … the Optima battery selector yields a size 35 and the Interstate selector states a size 24F, for my car.

Well I decided to replace the battery with a EverStart size 35. It took me about an hour to replace the battery and I work on cars a lot. It is those dumb/cheap plastic rivets that slowed me down. Especially removing the cowl along the windshield. Whatever happened to screws and bolts for fasteners?
I have to replace the rear brake shoes next. I am at 3 mm with 30,000 miles on them. I little early for rear pads in my opinion. I got some Hawk street pads from TireRack for $ 80. That is $ 20 less than the dealer pads.

And you should have a larger battery!

2007 & 2008 G37's had a 24F. That's the size of the battery tray. Then they saved a dollar, downsizing to 35.

My 2009 is a bit of a garage queen. The first three 35's sulphated badly and finally for Battery #4, I put in a 24F.

The electronics draw almost 50 mAh. That puts a significant drain after sitting a week or so. The 24F is about 10% more capacity on average. It has helped keep a higher charge state.

Also, Bose Studio on Wheels sucks power when cranked. I have rendered the car un-startable after 25 minutes on a "good" 35 Nissan battery. (They suck.) A 24F gives a bit more leeway.

I've never had issues replacing batteries in my G37 nor older G35s sedan. Usually took about 15 minutes as both had the same location/panel design.

When I relegated the coupe to sitting around more than being driven I started experiencing the drain issue and if the vehicle was not driven enough I had to use a tender to try and charge it back up. I never looked to determine what the draw was but it seemed to get worse as time progressed. Alternator seemed fine and I simply didn't want to spend the time to look into it further.

So, would any of you consider a 100mA draw high? I measured this recently when my battery died overnight (cause is a poor ground connection, will not fit tight on the terminal). I'm now looking for a new battery as it died again and will not take a charge from my battery minder.

Do you have a factory CD changer in the trunk? In this instance the draw was the changer....they do a good walk-through for troubleshooting though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y66xOBU5GzY

I do have the cd changer in the trunk. Will look at the video later. So far the new battery is holding.

It will for a bit as long as you drive it daily. With the continued drain it will eventually fail.