Post by
nissanconvert »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/nissanconvert-u33061.html
Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:47 pm
I have been driving my vert off and on now that i have when I have time and have come across some interesting problems. I've done some searching and am not sure where to go with them when I get my tax money back in few months. Hopefully someone here has a better idea of where to go with each, any help is appreciated.
Problem:I noticed the car banks hard when i turn left and not so much when I turn right. The rear tire has a bit of negative camber when looking at it along the right side of the car. When I go over a hard bump in the road of in a parknig deck the back end of the car feels like it is swaying side to side, a lot. Others have noticed the same feeling enought to ask if it was ok, lol. When i hit bumps on the highway the right half of the car seems goes up and down a lot more then the left and with two cycles for a single bump(up, down,up,down)Condition:The suspension is stock at 95k miles on it. THe right half of the car was wrecked by the previous owner and the right rear mounts for the suspension could be off. Nothing is visably boken in the suspension and the spring "looks" to be ok. If it is sagging it is not by enought ot visibly tell, the wheel well gap seem even to both sides of the car. A month ago the right rear lower control arm lost a bolt while I was driving the the tire went hard up into the well(yay quick reaction and not hitting anything!) I replaced it with a new oem bolt/nut/bushing. Looking at the car from the back it seems level. Looking at it from the front or from inside the driver side hood looks higher then the passenger side. Many people have pointed this out to me. "why does the car look like its leaning?" Although at times it looks worse then others like it levels out.Options:1. Take the car to a frame shop and check to see if it is twisted and causing the wack movement?2. Find a used stock right side spring/strut and repalce to see if the right rear is sagging causing the front left to go up.3. Spen more money on new springs and stuts4. Your idea?
Problem:Whe it rains water flows slightly toward the front of the top and then along the rubber edge to the side windows. It seems to then drip between the 1" long weatherstip between the top and the window onto my lap. I realigned the window with the panels off and bought annew oem weatherstip to put there. It still leaks.Soultion:1. Put some ugly silicone there to redirect the water that is flowing along the rubber between the windshild frame and the top.2. Your solution? Is this a problem for anyone else, I've never seen it on a thead that it leaks even with new weatherstripping although it looks to me to be a design flaw.
Problem:Now:Any time of year the car cold starts great, 2 cranks and its golden. When I drive it enouh for it to warm up, park it and then come back to drive it 10minutes to an hour later it won't start well if at all. It's worse on hot days during the sumer. If i try to restart it warm immediatly is does fine. it take a few minutes to go bad. It always cranks and cathes at first but then chugs, and rpms do a stock market thing. If i step on the gas before it levels out it sputteres/dies and won't catch at all. If it dies on its own it won't restart. I noticed it's worse off if my foot is on the brake and elcetrics are on (lights,radio etc). Then:When I first got the car it wouldn't even turn over when it was warm, just click once weather i was holding the key on the start or not. After trying to click it an unknown number of times it would catch and chug like above. I noticed an old remote start system poorly installed and removed the whole unit and allit its wires. I was sure to take the wires put everything to stock. The clicking problem disappeared but the chug is still there.Solution:I've read the same problem with some variations in other threads but none had agreeing solutions, Whhat is your guess?1. Bad starter2. Bad battery (heat soak, not nough amps, old etc?)3. Bad wiring4. Bad fuel delivery (I replaced the tank for another problem, used injector cleaner, cleaned the throttle body with cleaner, used entire fuel system cleaner that goes in the vacuum line, replaced theair filter and fuel filter.5. bad injectors (it doesn't seem to have much power after 4000 rpm. Actually it has no power after 4k and i have to wait for it to rev to 6 sometimes before it will down shift leaving me slowly moving through an intersection in from of oncoming traffic while i wait for it to decide what to do)6. Bad compression (it only has 95k miles, but questionable ones)7. Your idea?
Sorry this was long but I wanted to be thurough and I am bored.